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Where to learn about Lenses?

Started by Detonate ·

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Where to learn about Lenses?

14 posts
  1. Where to learn about Lenses?

    My Nikon D70 should be arriving tomorrow, so now that my camera is set in stone, I want to start learning about lenses.

     

    There is only so much I can pick up on just by reading posts.

     

    For instance, I've gathered that 12-24 is a good wide angle lens, and the 60mm is good for Macro.

     

    But I have no idea what that really means. And also, what do all the other numbers/letters mean when selecting a lens.

     

    Example

    Nikon - 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF VR AF-S Zoom-Nikkor Lens

     

    I can see that Nikon is the lens. 24-120mm is the focal length? Not that the numbers actually have any meaning to me. Although I assume that the lower the number the wider the angle, and then I guess the larger the number the more Telephoto? But when is it Zoom and when is it Macro?

     

    F/3.5-5.6G sounds like apetures, but I don't know...

     

    ED-IF - No clue

     

    AF-S I think that means Auto Focus, Silent wave motor from an email from Ryan. He says the -S = Good. :lol:

     

    Zoom = Telephoto I'm guessing

     

    And the Nikkor Lens thing confuses me.

     

    Is there a difference in the words Nikon, Nikkor, Nikonos????? That has been bugging me for awhile.

     

    ??? :?: :?: :?:

  2. Hi Detonator, at first it may all seem confusing but it'll soon become second nature.

     

    The 24-120mm means it's a zoom lens with focal lengths between 24 and 120mm. This means the lens will have a ring on it which you can turn to change the focal length between 24 and 120mm. 24 being wide angle(ish) and 120mm being telephoto. So this lens can be changed from somewhat wideangle to (somewhat) telephoto. This would be a pretty standard lens to take on a holiday trip or something so you can make photos of a wide array of subjects. This lens is actually quite a nice lens.

     

    Now macro is something completely seperate. Im sure there are lots of descriptions, but to me macro means you can get 'life size' pictures and 'larger than life size'. This means that if you take a picture of the subject, you would see it just as large on your film, as it would be in real life. Basically you are filling the frame with the whole subject. This is also denoted as 1:1. You can also do large than life, basically blowing up a subject so it fills your frame. Something that would be half the size of your film, say a blenny, would be blown up to fill the whole film, showing immense detail.

    In digital photography this doesnt quite hold up, but the same principal applies. To make macro photos your lens needs to be macro-capable. The 60mm Nikkor lens is one, so is the 105mm and the 200mm. They are generally accepted as the best macro choices.

     

    Do know that when you shoot digital, the focal length will actually NOT be the same as what your lens says. There is a multiplication factor. For my D100 it's about 1.5x. This means my 12-24 mm lens will actually behave like an 18-36mm lens _on my D100. If i'd put the exact same lens on an F100 film camera it would be 12-24. This has to do with CCD chips and bla bla..not important, just remember it.

     

    f/3.5-5.6 is indeed the aperture. The smaller the number, the larger the opening in the front of the lens, the more light will be let into the lens. Aperture is measured in f-stops. So f8, or f2.8 are f-stops. It's sortof like the pupil of an eye. The more light you can let into the lens, the shorter you have to open the lens to let a certain amount of light in. This means the lower your f-stops can go (towards 2.8 or even 1.2), the less light you need to properly expose your subject, so you can work in dimmer environments. The f stop also controls how much of the subject is in focus. The smaller the aperture (higher number, say f22), typically the larger the depth of field will be. This means more of your subject will be in focus. Properly exposing a subject means finding a balance between f stop and shutter speed (amongst other things).

     

    When they tell you the f-stop on a lens description it usually means the lowest f stop possible. For zoom lenses this is usually 2 numbers, because the largest aperture (smallest number) changes at different zoom lengths. So, f/3.5-5.6 means the lens can go down to 3.5 at wide angles, and 5.6 at telephoto range. 5.6 is actually not so good, BUT the VR capability makes up for a lot of it. It means you can use slower shutter speeds to make up for the smaller amount of light you can let in.

     

    G means the lens doesnt have an aperture ring, and if you want to change aperture you need to do it on the camera body itself through whatever dial there is that changes the f stop. This is a relatively new addition to Nikon lenses.

     

    ED-IF stands for "Extra low Dispersion, Internal Focussing". ED counteracts Chromatic Aberration which, simply put, is some form of distortion you get with certain lenses. IF means the lens focusses internally, which means it wont get any longer than what you see. If you twist the focus ring you'll only see it move inside the lens.

     

    AF-S indeed stands for Auto Focus, Silent wave. This means the lens is a very fast focussing quiet lens. Handy when you want to shoot skittish wildlife that might not like the sound of a focussing lens :lol:

     

    VR is Vibration Reduction. It allows for hand-held shooting at slow shutter speeds. It basically counteracts your hand shaking slightly and thus giving you a sharp picture where otherwise your hand shaking would have made the picture look crappy.

     

    Zoom doesnt mean Telephoto. It means you can change the focal distance, in this case between 24 and 120mm. Telephoto just means a certain range of focal distances. Id say anything above 70mm is Telephoto. So a 600mm lens is a telephoto, but not a zoom. And a 24-120 is both telephoto capable and zoom.

     

    Nikon is obviously a company name. Just like Canon and Leica are company names. Actually, Nikon is called Nippon Kogaku K.K, and when the company first started making lenses they named the product 'Nikkor'. So Nikkor is just 'a lens from Nikon'.

     

    Nikonos is also a product from Nikon. It is a range of dedicated underwater cameras, that dont need a housing. The most popular one is the Nikonos V, for a long time one of the leading underwater cameras. They also made a camera called the Nikonos RS which was a dedicated underwater SLR camera. They are both no longer made, but there is still a large trade in them because they are both just damn good cameras.

     

    If you want to know more about the Nikon lens Nomenclature check google are just type "Nikon Lens Nomenclature".

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Cor

  3. Oops, small typo "..the less light you need to properly expose your subject.." should be "..the less time you need to properly expose your subject.." in other words, faster shutter speed.

  4. Two thumbs up to Cor for a well thought out answer

     

    Karl

  5. Thanks for typing all of that up Cor - we definitely appreciate it. One quick correction: The focal length of a lens does not change just because you put it on a digital camera...:-) The Nikon digital SLR's like the D70 crop out and only use the center 2/3 of the image. So there is a 1.5x crop, but that's it. The properties of the lens do not change.

     

    Cheers

    James

  6. Oops, you're right. While trying to make it understandable I went a little too far :lol: ofcourse the lens properties dont change, but the end result will be something that looks more like an 18-36 lens than a 12-24 lens. So if you take a picture with an F100 and a D100 at 12mm on your lens, you will get a wider image on your F100 because the D100 will crop 1.5x, sortof equal as if you had used an 18mm lens on your D100. Better? :D

     

    Cor

  7. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! That is exactly the answers I've long been looking for!!! :lol:

     

    Just a few follow up questions....

    In digital photography this doesnt quite hold up, but the same principal applies. To make macro photos your lens needs to be macro-capable. The 60mm Nikkor lens is one, so is the 105mm and the 200mm. They are generally accepted as the best macro choices.

    When I think Macro, I think of the ability to focus on Objects extrememly close to the lens. How can I tell if a lens is good for that? Or maybe I'm taking Macro pictures wrong???

     

    Generally I take my wide angle photos from around 3-5 feet from a subject, my Portraits around 2 feet, and my Macro's as close as I can get, generally inches from the subject.

     

    When you take macro shots with the 60mm Nikkor lens or 105mm and the 200mm, are you taking the shots from 2 feet away? or up real close?

     

     

    Again, this was extremely helpful. So many :idea: light bulbs just went off in my head.

  8. When I take pictures with my 60mm i basically try and get as close as the subject and environment will let me and is pleasing for the framing of the subject. The minimal focus distance of the 60mm Nikkor lens is 8 3/4 inches, so often thats exactly how far away I am from the subject. The 105 has a minimal focus distance of 1 foot, so thats usually how far away I am. (when shooting underwater, get close, and then get closer :lol:

     

    The 24-120mm Nikkor VR lens is not a macro lens. Look at the booklet or online. The maximum reproduction ratio is 1:1.47, so thats not 'life size'.

     

    Imagine in your head a slide. Life size means if you take a picture of say a bumble bee, it will be exactly as big on the slide as it was in real life. So think about blowing that up onto your wall, it'll be immense. With the 1:1.47 ratio it means it will be quite a bit smaller on the slide than it is in real life. So if you project the 2 slides on the wall, the 1:1 version will fill your whole wall, and in the 1:1.47 version you'll see quite a large bee, but much smaller visually than the other one and itl'll have a lot of the leaf it was sitting on around it. It will feel as if you were further away from it, which you were.

     

    Now, how do you know if your lens can do macro or 1:1 or even more than 1:1? Look at the manual, or the name on the lens. Nikon Macro lenses are called 'micro' lenses (ofcourse..why wouldnt they! :D So the 60mm lens is called 60mm f/2.8D AF Micro-Nikkor. The 24-120mm is called 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF VR AF-S Zoom-Nikkor. If it had been a macro lens it would have been called 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF VR AF-S Micro-Zoom-Nikkor. But it isnt, so it isnt a macro lens.

     

    Btw, the minimal focal distance of the 24-120 is 1.6 feet. So never get closer than that.

     

    Cor

  9. Gotcha! :lol:

  10. When you take macro shots with the 60mm Nikkor lens or 105mm and the 200mm, are you taking the shots from 2 feet away? or up real close?

     

    All of the above, depending upon the lens

     

    When you start working with close-up lenses, you run in to the concept of the "working distance". This is the distance between the image making device (image chip in your case, film in mine :twisted:) and the subject when the lens is focused. If we talk about focusing at 1:1, so you have a consistent reproduction ratio, then the working distances for the MicroNikkor lenses are:

     

    • Focal Length -- Working Distance

    60mm -- 8 3/4 inches

    105mm -- 12 inches

    200mm -- 19.4 inches

    and as a bonus

     

    70-180 @ "180" 14.6 inches for approximately 1:1.3 reproduction.

     

    Keep in mind that these are the distances from the imager (chip/film) to the subject, not from the front of the lens. So with the camera body and length of the lens included, when you are focusing 1:1 with the 60mm lens, the subject is only 2-3 inches from the front of the lens. Add on a flat port, and you can see that focusing at 1:1 with the 60mm lens will have you almost touching the subject! This is fine for slow moving nudibranchs and motionless corals, but not so good for skittish little fish.

     

    Go to the other extreme, the 200mm underwater as scorpio_fish has done, and when you are focusing 1:1, you will have about a foot of water between yourself and the subject. This goes against the first rule of UW photography, ie remove as much water as possible... But, the skittish fish are less likely to swim away as you try to focus.

     

     

    <edited gently for clarity and a couple of typos.

  11. Ahhhh, the plot thickens. That makes a lot of sense.

     

    My initial thought was "60mm must be the best since you can get the closest", but I can see where they might not be the case.

     

    It sounds like the 70-180 would be a pretty good lens choice, since it would seem (in my not so infinite wisdom) that it would have more praticality both under and above water.

  12. Just like everything in life there's a lot of things to consider :lol: When doing macro photography a foot of water can be a lot. When you've got murky water, the more water, the more crap between your lens and the subject. Some of the best macro photography is in murky water. But like craig said, forget about doing 1:1 on skittish subjects, or for instance a boxer mantis shrimp who could break your port glass in a flash. In those cases I switch to 105 or if I had one (which I dont) a 70-180.

     

    If you are truly a macro lover, you just get more than 1 macro lens. If you only want 1 lens, the 70-180 might be a good choice, I dont know. I dont own one.

     

    Cor

  13. Macro lenses allow extreme close-up by adding extension as it is focused in close.

     

    Take a normal 105 telephoto lens, its closest focus point is 90cm. To focus closer you can add an extension ring or tube*, this moves the lens optics away from the film/sensor allowing the lens to focus closer.

     

    The Macro lens has this variable extension built in so as you focus closer the lense adds the extension for you.

    Not all macro lenses reach 1:1 but the better ones do.

     

    * or a close-up diopter

     

    PauP

  14. Generally I take my wide angle photos from around 3-5 feet from a subject, my Portraits around 2 feet, and my Macro's as close as I can get, generally inches from the subject.

     

    In addition....Many wide angle lenses will focus close-up.

     

    Imagine taking a very close photo of the "H" key on your keyboard with a wide angle lens. You will have all the keys in the picture. Take the same picture at the same distance with a telephoto/macro (Narrow angle) lens. the "H" key will fill the whole frame/picture.

     

    If you add an extension tube to your wide angle lens to make it close focus you will lose the wide angle coverage so you would choose a close-up diopter instead.

     

    PauP

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