I'm using a D750 in Nauticam housing, 2 YS-D2 from Sea and Sea via fibar cable and TTL.
The pictures are always a little dark. Where would you make the correction - on flash side (+1.5 looks much better) or on camera side.
Sascha
Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic
Started by SMY ·
Read-only discussion
I'm using a D750 in Nauticam housing, 2 YS-D2 from Sea and Sea via fibar cable and TTL.
The pictures are always a little dark. Where would you make the correction - on flash side (+1.5 looks much better) or on camera side.
Sascha
Can you post an example?
When you say the picture is too dark, what part of the picture? Remember with flash photography, the lens aperture/flash work together to impact the subject which is lit by the strobes. Shutter speed impacts ambient light. So...if you could post a picture it would be easier for us to help point you in the right direction, based on which part is too dark.
You could also leave your settings as they are and increase ISO, but again, seeing an example would make answering your question much easier.
SMY,
as it is easier to change power on the strobe the easiest way is to adjust the power directly on the strobe and not entering the camera menu.
Chris
Thanks guys,
here is an example without flash increase
I Have the impression, that in general the D750 wants to use as much as possible ambient light.
Sascha
What aperture is it on?
You may switch from Matrix metering to center weighted or spot to see if that helps.
You may use the diffuser on the strobe to make the beam wider
Chris
Sasha; What are all of the settings you are using on the camera?
In general, I usually add a +.3ev to the TTL camera flash compensation as it moves the strobe to a more useful range.
If you're using TTL on the strobes, then the camera menu item e3 Flash control needs to be set to TTL, if you're using manual on the strobes, then set to manual on the camera - low power like 1/125 speeds up camera recycle.
These are a place to start. As you get into it, play with one setting at a time to see what it does.
Other info:
Jack
Thanks guys!
@Jack: as usually you help me a lot!
My settings were first program mode, but then I changed to A, with f8. I wondered, that the Nikon always choose 1/60....ISO automatic is off, 100 chosen.
Nikon is set to TTL, S&S too, in the picture above no increase, better results with +1.5
I used matrix metering. standard setting WB
I will leave tomorrow for the Red Sea and will try the following:
Mode Manual, ISO 200-400 / Auto off, f8, 1/125, spot, white balance auto, flash + 0.3
@Jack: Zen 170 port arrived just in time! Thanks! My friend has a 8.5 Nautical port which I will check, too!
I will report you!
Thanks a lot! Sascha
Cheers, have fun!
On full frame cameras ike the D750 you can easily shoot at higher ISOs and nver see the difference. ISO 800 won't hurt anything.
Coming back from the Red Sea I have had there the phenomenon too, that I need plus 1.5 correction at the YS-D2 strobes using TTL. When using manual flash mode 1/4 or /18 flash power was enough....
Hi
Double check your flash exposure compensation setting on your camera and check the mode of the flash, ensure its set to TTL in the camera and recheck by shooting a few shots at
100 iso f11 1/125 . Make sure your camera is set to manual mode. And set the focus mode to single shot selecting a single focus sensor This exposure is considerably dark enough to need a good amount of light to expose your subject form your strobes. Try using a Lens around 24mm to narrow the field of view enough for all TTL reference to ensure good functionality.
If you have a macro lens use that to ensure the the subject will only be exposed by light from your strobes.
Post the pictures so we can reference the exposures. Then feedback will be forth coming.
Regards
Craig.
Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.