Ideal set up for D7100 and Inon z240

Hello,

On my old camera set up (Nikon D70 and Inon Z240) I was using a 5 pin nikonos attachment from my strobe to the camera. I had considerable problems setting up the strobe and camera to communicate and for the strobe to automatically set the power. This meant I often had over or under exposed pictures and often resorted to setting the strength manually.

I have now up graded to a D7100 and am about to buy a housing. What I want to know is what the best route to go down is for connecting my Z240 to the camera?

Should I use a fibre optics cable or 5 pin sync cord?

After that, what settings should I have my camera and strobe on so that the strobe measures the needed light and fires correctly.

Thanks,

Simon

Hello Simon,

Many people use camera's built-in flash for TTL synchronization with Z-240. TTL works. Certainly not very accurate, by some technical reasons. User usually have to use corrector TTL+/- on the strobe.

Synchronization from camera's flash has also some other lacks. But this is a most simple way.

For accurate TTL i advice you to try "Optical & Wire TTL-Converter" (edition for Nauticam housings), made by "UW Technics". This is the 1-st product on the market which provides optical TTL, wire TTL, and mixed TTL in one device. You can use fiber optic cables, 5-pin synch cords, or both together. TTL works accurate with all types of synchronization. But I recommend you optical TTL, as progressive nowadays.

I tested this device for Z-240 and YS-D1 strobes with my Nikon D610 in Nauticam housing. It was on the Red Sea in October. Automatics worked perfect, without any correction +/-TTL.

Hi Simon

I use Z240 strobes with my D800 and TTL all the time with optical cables. I really like it and think it much better than when I used the same strobes with Sea&Sea cables electrically with my D300 system.

I find the TTL is very good - especially on macro., But even with wide angle it seems to work fine!

As Irbis suggests, you might find you need to dial-down the +/- setting a little if the strobe(s) is/are overwhelmingly powerful. But, for me at least, this was a one-off setting change and once I had it calibrated right, there was no need to adjust further.

There is a video on Youtube about TTL-Converter mentioned in previous post. Test for Nikon camera in Nauticam housing with Z-240 strobes.

https://youtu.be/qmzp64Hivn4