Switching to optical sync. D810 continuous release with pop-up flash???

Hello,

I'm upgrading (D700 -> D810 Aquatica) and will have hybrid sync ports (1 electric, 1 optical). New to optical, been shooting for years with manual electric sync.

I don't yet have the D810, but my topside D800 (& D700) won't fire continuously with the pop up flash even when set to manual minimum power. It fires as if the camera's set to 'Single' release. If I repeatedly press the shutter I can fire it around 2fps for a few secs until the flash needs to charge. Close the pop up and the camera fires continuously.

Yes I'm set to 'Continuous', not 'Single', release. Pop up flash set to 'Manual' at lowest power. Do not have redeye or rear curtain on.

I'm also curious if anyone can lay out the other electric vs optical sync pros/cons. I'm sure its been discussed before but I can't find any good summary. I've read references to a 'nikon pop up flash problem' without detail.

I understand pop up flash limitations exist. I thought perhaps a slower continuous release but not to be forced into single release. I don't really care about TTL though may try it out for macro. I have read about some mini led hotshoe optical triggers. Experiences with those?

I may just stick with electric release. I like the ability to shoot fast bursts.

*FYI I am a topside pro and been shooting UW for years. Please, I don't need a lesson in the basics or my motivations for continuous release questioned. Though perhaps there's a camera setting I am missing here. I've never really used my cameras' built in flash, always external ones.

Any advice is much appreciated. Cheers,

Chris

Hello Chris,

The charge time is well known problem for pop-up flash. Also flash overheat inside the housing takes place in some cases.

I use Optical TTL Converter for my Nikon cameras. It has no charge time, no overheat. Serial shooting 15 fps works perfect. TTL is also very accurate.

I think, the future of synchronization will be for such LED devices.

My pop up flash fried on my first D800 after a few months doing quite a bit of fast burst shooting. And I also seemed to get a lot of misfires with the optical setup. Switched back to Electrical and much happier. And being able to shoot at 320th and even 400th sec helps a lot in shallow/ bright water.

Pavel,

What optical converter are you using? UW Technics or something else?

Pavel is UWTechnics I believe...

The OP is asking about what I consider to be a Nikon weakness, and that regardless of flash recycle time, you have to pull the trigger once for one frame when the flash is popped up. In other words there is no such thing as continuous shooting mode when the internal flash is popped up.

This is one reason that manual led triggers have been created for some housings... Pavel's TTL Converter is actually a very good manual trigger as well, I share his enthusiasm.

Pavel,

 

What optical converter are you using? UW Technics or something else?

I use UW Technics TTL-Converter (2 pcs), - in my D610 Nauticam housing and D3X Sea&Sea housing.