WB adjustment while shooting or shoot raw and adjust WB later.

Hi everyone. I just want to ask as the tittle.

Do you guys prefer to shoot RAW and adjust the WB during the Post processing or Adjust the WB while shooting itself.

Or maybe Shoot RAW with the WB adjust while shooting..?

I know light is the most important element in any type of shooting...

But i want to know more about the advantage and disadvantage of both.

Most of my pictures now are shot auto WB and JPEG with additional one or 2 ARCHON D11V torch lights.

Below are some examples of my pictures.

All the picture above was taken directly as JPEG without any post processing done nor WB adjustment.

Picture taken with

Olympus E-PL3 with Archon d11v torch(es).

Let say, it the light could not reach the subject like below...

Do you recommend to take in

-RAW and adjust the WB later

-RAW with WB adjusted while shooting

-Or JPEG with WB adjusted while shooting?

Is there any difference between the first and second??

Thanks for your input.

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Hi Timz

I've shot (Nikon) RAW underwater for many years and always with Auto WB. Adjusting the WB subsequently in Lightroom is probably the adjustment I make least. My experience is that the combination is almost always spot on.

I dont know enough about the characteristics of your setup to advise on the differences you list, but, based on my own experiences, I'd give RAW/AutoWB a try.

Hi Timz

 

I've shot (Nikon) RAW underwater for many years and always with Auto WB. Adjusting the WB subsequently in Lightroom is probably the adjustment I make least. My experience is that the combination is almost always spot on.

 

I dont know enough about the characteristics of your setup to advise on the differences you list, but, based on my own experiences, I'd give RAW/AutoWB a try.

Appreciate your input. All thr images taken above was shot with an Olympus E-PL3(2011) that I loaned from a friend. But I kinda like the size of the system and I just got myself an E-PL6 which I think launched in 2014.

And currently loaded with an 8GB wifi card that comes with it.

So, space is kinda limited.

Thanks again for your input.

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FWIW, I've always been told to shoot auto WB and if you are using strobes, it seems to be taken care of.

The problem is when the strobes will not cover the shot. Then you either need to manually set the WB with a color card or leave it in auto and correct in post.

The big challenge I find is the column of water that the light has to travel. This is not only what depth, but the length of the reflect light to your camera. Makes trying to set WB a challenge.

Many times, I can find a 'white' reference point in the shot to bring the non-strobed picture back.

FWIW, I've always been told to shoot auto WB and if you are using strobes, it seems to be taken care of.

 

The problem is when the strobes will not cover the shot. Then you either need to manually set the WB with a color card or leave it in auto and correct in post.

 

The big challenge I find is the column of water that the light has to travel. This is not only what depth, but the length of the reflect light to your camera. Makes trying to set WB a challenge.

 

Many times, I can find a 'white' reference point in the shot to bring the non-strobed picture back.

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Two good strobes and some decent strobe arms, make a huge difference in macro and night photos. The key being to learn how to position your strobes for various shots / effects.

For WA, they are less critical since the WA lens / dome gather so much more light.

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Two good strobes and some decent strobe arms, make a huge difference in macro and night photos. The key being to learn how to position your strobes for various shots / effects.

 

For WA, they are less critical since the WA lens / dome gather so much more light.

 

 

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I'm using an Olympus E-PL 6, which the housing takes 12-50mm lens. So, the widest I'll be taking for the time being will be just 12mm(equiv to 24mm in 35mm format)

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I shoot an EMD-OM5, and love using the 12-50 mm lens as well. I also tried using my Sola 1200 S/F lights for still photo. Didn't work nearly as well as some basic strobes. Even my first Intova slave strobes gave me better color etc. I bought my current 2 strobes off eBay for less money than a single dive light costs.

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I shoot an EMD-OM5, and love using the 12-50 mm lens as well. I also tried using my Sola 1200 S/F lights for still photo. Didn't work nearly as well as some basic strobes. Even my first Intova slave strobes gave me better color etc. I bought my current 2 strobes off eBay for less money than a single dive light costs.

 

 

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Are you able to use the macro mode on the 12-50mm??

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Yes, I use the 12-50 mm macro (43mm), and the predecessor version of the Px21, the ISS4000, cheap and pretty reliable / easy to use as a first strobe:

http://digitaldiver.com.au/shop/product/int-iss4000

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Yes, I use the 12-50 mm macro (43mm), and the predecessor version of the Px21, the ISS4000, cheap and pretty reliable / easy to use as a first strobe:

 

http://digitaldiver.com.au/shop/product/int-iss4000

 

 

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And sadly, I couldn't find the ISS4000 on their website. So, I assume it's discontinued.

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Yes, I believe that the ISS4000 strobes are discontinued. I sold mine on eBay a while ago. I use Sea & Sea YS-110a strobes currently that I bought off eBay pretty cheap.

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Thx

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