Wich better? TTL or MANUAL?

I would like to see how many divers using TTL and how many divers using MANUAL trigger?

In my country 5 years ago there were 50/50 of DSLR users. But times change. Last year almost all new users here want TTL.

I have seen tll that always gives too much light.. Then u have to turn the strobe down to the give the correct light...

So... That seems like manual to me... Unless it has gone more accurate??!? Which I doubt so...

So maybe people are 'accepting' their light as they seem.

I hope more people play with manual settings on the strobe...

I have seen tll that always gives too much light.. Then u have to turn the strobe down to the give the correct light...

So... That seems like manual to me... Unless it has gone more accurate??!? Which I doubt so...

So maybe people are 'accepting' their light as they seem.

I hope more people play with manual settings on the strobe...

Wich TTL system did you have? And wich DSLR? Canon, Nikon, etc?

I have seen tll that always gives too much light.. Then u have to turn the strobe down to the give the correct light...

So... That seems like manual to me... Unless it has gone more accurate??!? Which I doubt so...

Certainly lighting accuracy depends on TTL board. Such devices became much better last years.

Currently i use TTL Converters for Nikon D610 and D3X. Both work nice, usually no any corrections.

Maybe it's time to look at the newer boards...

TTL for me with macro since 2009. Firstly with a Heinrich Weikamp convertor with a Nikon D300 and Inon Z240 strobes; now using fibre optics and the D800 and the Inon Z240. Love it and wouldn't go back. I almost never have a wrongly exposed image with it.

I think the best solution if the converter knows TTL/manual functions too. But novadays i think the new converters work good.

i am using Olympus e-pl6. actually similar with e-pl5 just some minor upgrade which is not sold in usa.

what's the ttl board or converter.?? are they relevant to me??

I know my camera will work with fo cable.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Manual. I shoot mostly wideangle and in caves.

In the new Nauticam housing which I have just bought, the internal cabling to attach both electrical bulkheads to the camera hotshoe is poorly designed. My dealer tells me I should buy a ttl converter and use fibre optic cables instead. I have no interest in moving to TTL shooting and will modify the housing internals myself to work smoothly with the electrical cables for manual shooting. This would seem to indicate that many buyers either prefer TTL or are being pushed down the TTL path.

Both wife & I: TTL for macro and manual for wide angle

Some time use 1/2 stop off set on super bright subjects.

I think here is the best solution for nikon users! We can switching the mode during dive.

https://youtu.be/EjwHZZy3bKg

I think here is the best solution for nikon users! We can switching the mode during dive.

Almost all TTL Converters on the market now have switching the mode during dive. There is no difference in that. But users mainly rate TTL accuracy of any TTL Converter.

Almost all TTL Converters on the market now have switching the mode during dive. There is no difference in that. But users mainly rate TTL accuracy of any TTL Converter.

Really? How does it work?

Really? How does it work?

In internal TTL boards the switching TTL / M is usually available via camera menu. This is most popular way.

TTL Converter manufacturers in their firmware assigned this function for work with determined option of camera menu.

For example, "UW Technics" TTL Converter (version-2) uses option marked "Auto FP" in camera menu for switching to M mode.

I can explain more detailed: As we know, "Auto FP"cannot work for intended use with uw strobes (FP =40 khz fast flashes). That is why this command is free for underwater shooting, and it can be assigned for another meaning: TTL / M switch. When user set option marked "Auto FP" in camera menu, the TTL Converter recognizes this command in communication protocol and switches the mode.

In addition, when switched to M mode the UW Technics TTL board gives possibility to adjust light power manually by camera wheel and see the values on screen. Certainly, also possible to adjust light power manually by strobe's dial switch, as usual.

I know another TTL manufacturer, who used to assign another command of menu for switching TTL / M. It was also acceptable, despite of some problems. Comparing, i rate "Auto FP"command as much better for such aim.

The other brand uses a sealed button for switching TTL/M underwater. Why no, if housings manufacturer supports it.

In internal TTL boards the switching TTL / M is usually available via camera menu. This is most popular way.

TTL Converter manufacturers in their firmware assigned this function for work with determined option of camera menu.

 

For example, "UW Technics" TTL Converter (version-2) uses option marked "Auto FP" in camera menu for switching to M mode.

I can explain more detailed: As we know, "Auto FP"cannot work for intended use with uw strobes (FP =40 khz fast flashes). That is why this command is free for underwater shooting, and it can be assigned for another meaning: TTL / M switch. When user set option marked "Auto FP" in camera menu, the TTL Converter recognizes this command in communication protocol and switches the mode.

In addition, when switched to M mode the UW Technics TTL board gives possibility to adjust light power manually by camera wheel and see the values on screen. Certainly, also possible to adjust light power manually by strobe's dial switch, as usual.

 

I know another TTL manufacturer, who used to assign another command of menu for switching TTL / M. It was also acceptable, despite of some problems. Comparing, i rate "Auto FP"command as much better for such aim.

The other brand uses a sealed button for switching TTL/M underwater. Why no, if housings manufacturer supports it.

Hmmm! This is a ver good solution for the switching. I made this from the backlight switching in the TURTLE. THX for the answer Pavel!

I chechked what U wrote and I think the user does not use 1/320 in TTL. Is it true or I 've checked something wrong?

I chechked what U wrote and I think the user does not use 1/320 in TTL. Is it true or I 've checked something wrong?

Uw photographer can use all shutter speeds available without FP flash glowing, including 1/320, if 1/320 is available without FP in concrete camera. Shutter speed must be marked simply "1/320" in menu, but not "1/320 Auto FP". On modern Nikon cameras with mechanical shutter, usually fastest speed for flash synchronization without FP is 1/200 or 1/250. This is a real time for mechanical shutter when window is fully open. In some old Nikons, for example Nikon D50, the shutter is electronic / mechanical, it suggests up to 1/500 without FP. I tested D50 camera with TTL Converter at 1/500, it worked nice.

In common case, anyway, it is not recommended to use shutter speeds faster than 1/250 for underwater TTL strobes. Because full fire time for small uw strobe is about 3,5....4 ms, not less. This is 1/250 s. If we use a shutter speed significantly faster than 1/250, than the part of strobe's energy is unavailable for picture exposure.

 

 

Hmmm! This is a ver good solution for the switching. I made this from the backlight switching in the TURTLE. THX for the answer Pavel!

Balázs, you are welcome

I hope we can meet at any exhibition and speak more about TTL.

Balázs, you are welcome

I hope we can meet at any exhibition and speak more about TTL.

Yesss.. we can do that lot of hours!