External Flash Triggering vs TTL converter (Nauticam)

I'm going to move from a D7000 to D500 in a Nauticam housing, keeping my Inon Z240's.

Currently my first macro "grab shot" of an animal is optical TTL using internal flash and sTTL mode on the Z240's. It works well, I know I should do full manual (but lets not debate that here). From there if the animal sticks around or composition is interesting I use manual to get a "good" shot.

So my questions are:

1. Will sTTL on the Inon's still work with the external flash trigger that comes with the NA-D500 housing?

2. What are the real benefits of adding a TTL converter (there not cheap are they)

I'm guessing the default external trigger can't control the light pulse lengths and so mimic a TTL flash but would be nice to understand if this is true?

Cheers

Jon

Hey Jon

It doesn't answer your question directly, but I don't know if you saw this....

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59132

Hi Jon,

Tim already reffered to the link, where we had discussed LED benefits in contrast of pop-up flash. Look there. There are about 7-8 benefits.

Nauticam D500 housing includes manual Optical Trigger board as default setup. That Trigger fires a fixed time. The pulse is very strong, it fires Z-240 even by 40 meter FO cable.

User has to control Z-240 power manually by dial switch. Z-240 strobe must be set to M or FULL mode.

Nauticam produces optical TTL Converter (product #26307) for NA-D500/D5 housings. Firmware has full-size TTL curve for each supported strobe type. Full power range of Z240 is available for TTL control (!).

That board also has Wire TTL, which works with Z-240 in TTL by 5-pin cables. In contrast to Z240 own controls, that board has possibility for +/- TTL correction for Wire TTL as well as for Optical TTL. Correction range: -3ev...+1ev. "TTL/M" switching is available underwater (by camera menu). User even can set manual power of Z-240 by camera wheel (!) (17 steps, from min to max of Z240 power), looking the digital value on camera screen. That board has incredibly low current consumption, CR2032 battery continuos work: 5-7 years.

Thanks for the reply, I now understand.

I'm going to try flash trigger & manual and see how I go. Though the idea of controlling the flash in manual with a thumb wheel on the camera is attractive so may end up with the TTL converter for that reason.

Cheers

Jon

controlling the flash in manual with a thumb wheel on the camera is attractive

Yes, that is interesting feature. User can switch TTL-Converter from TTL to M mode underwater (by camera menu), and manually control Z-240 power by camera wheel. The digits are displayed on the camera service screen, also on the main LCD, and on viewfinder screen. I rated it as a really usable feature when dived at Egypt last time.

Hi...i am a new user here. I see all this back-and forth about wireless triggers, and I see them used a lot in instructional videos. Is it personal preference over having a flash unit in the hot shoe that is a fully-functional master? I have a 580EX II (Canon) that I use to control everything. In my view, having that available as a fill I think is pretty good. What am I missing? Am I going about off-camera lighting incorrectly? Is it the cost? I picked up a 580 in fantastic condition for $230 on EBay, which from what I could tell was a great price.

Hi...i am a new user here. I see all this back-and forth about wireless triggers, and I see them used a lot in instructional videos. Is it personal preference over having a flash unit in the hot shoe that is a fully-functional master? I have a 580EX II (Canon) that I use to control everything. In my view, having that available as a fill I think is pretty good. What am I missing? Am I going about off-camera lighting incorrectly? Is it the cost? I picked up a 580 in fantastic condition for $230 on EBay, which from what I could tell was a great price.

Try looking at some google images of housings for your camera to get an idea of the amount of room available.