Nauticam focus gear for Oly 60mm and Nauticam 12-50 port?

Hi, my friend is using an E-M5 mk1 with Olympus 60mm macro lens housed in a Nauticam housing and the port for 12-50mm.

Now, he's thinking of buying a focus gear for his 60mm lens but he's afraid that the macro mode dial on the port will obstruct the O60-F focus gear.

If there is anyone using the O60-F focus gear in the N85 12-50mm port, please let me know. Thanks.

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Hi, my friend is using an E-M5 mk1 with Olympus 60mm macro lens housed in a Nauticam housing and the port for 12-50mm.

 

Now, he's thinking of buying a focus gear for his 60mm lens but he's afraid that the macro mode dial on the port will obstruct the O60-F focus gear.

 

If there is anyone using the O60-F focus gear in the N85 12-50mm port, please let me know. Thanks.

 

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The focus gear is controlled by the knob on the housing, and given the 60mm is a narrower diameter there is no issue with the macro port knob.

Regards

Adam

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Hi Adam,

I use both the 12-50 mm with gear & the 60 mm with gear in the Nauti 12-50 port. No problem with either. Nauticam housing for Oly E-M5 Mark I. The 60 focus gear will cover the 60 lens focus limit switch.

I have the gear- waste of time, as the focus ring on the 60mm turns very slowly and the gearing in the housing knob/gear slows that down even more, unless you are very close to focus you are spinning the housing knob multiple turns to get anywhere and AF is generally a lot quicker. Even when close to focus the view changes so slowly your subject has gotten bored and left before you get to focus. My reason for buying it was that the lens would hunt and lock onto floaties when going from very close to mid distance, say swapping from a nudi to a fish. But that proved impractical. The solution was ultimately (after upgrading to the EM-1 II) to use the preset MF feature programmed to one of the function buttons. Hit that and the lens goes out the selected distance and is ready for a more distant subject.

I have the gear- waste of time, as the focus ring on the 60mm turns very slowly and the gearing in the housing knob/gear slows that down even more, unless you are very close to focus you are spinning the housing knob multiple turns to get anywhere and AF is generally a lot quicker. Even when close to focus the view changes so slowly your subject has gotten bored and left before you get to focus. My reason for buying it was that the lens would hunt and lock onto floaties when going from very close to mid distance, say swapping from a nudi to a fish. But that proved impractical. The solution was ultimately (after upgrading to the EM-1 II) to use the preset MF feature programmed to one of the function buttons. Hit that and the lens goes out the selected distance and is ready for a more distant subject.

I use the thumb-button AF to get on the subject, then fine-tune with the focus knob. The AF does not know I want the (say) rhinophores sharp and not the bumpy back.

I use the thumb-button AF to get on the subject, then fine-tune with the focus knob. The AF does not know I want the (say) rhinophores sharp and not the bumpy back.

Unless you're using a tripod, wouldn't thumb-button and rocking achieve the same result? Lock on subject and rock until the rhinophores are sharp?

Bob W

I have the gear- waste of time, as the focus ring on the 60mm turns very slowly and the gearing in the housing knob/gear slows that down even more, unless you are very close to focus you are spinning the housing knob multiple turns to get anywhere and AF is generally a lot quicker. Even when close to focus the view changes so slowly your subject has gotten bored and left before you get to focus. My reason for buying it was that the lens would hunt and lock onto floaties when going from very close to mid distance, say swapping from a nudi to a fish. But that proved impractical. The solution was ultimately (after upgrading to the EM-1 II) to use the preset MF feature programmed to one of the function buttons. Hit that and the lens goes out the selected distance and is ready for a more distant subject.

Example Costasiella usagi's eye. The AF works. but not knowing which specific part i want precisely. esspecially when we trying to shoot shallow DOF.

I use the thumb-button AF to get on the subject, then fine-tune with the focus knob. The AF does not know I want the (say) rhinophores sharp and not the bumpy back.

 

Unless you're using a tripod, wouldn't thumb-button and rocking achieve the same result? Lock on subject and rock until the rhinophores are sharp?

 

Bob W

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I use the 60mm with focus gear in the 12-50 macro port and it works fine.

 

The focus gear is controlled by the knob on the housing, and given the 60mm is a narrower diameter there is no issue with the macro port knob.

 

Regards

 

 

Adam

 

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Unless you're using a tripod, wouldn't thumb-button and rocking achieve the same result? Lock on subject and rock until the rhinophores are sharp?

 

Bob W

Yes, same result.That is my previous solution. I prefer the knob. Have you tried both?

Thanks for the comments. Mostly for something really small that moves ever so slowly...

 

Example Costasiella usagi's eye. The AF works. but not knowing which specific part i want precisely. esspecially when we trying to shoot shallow DOF.Yes. that's the reason.Yes. But rocking ur camera front and back doesn't magnify the subject in LCD to confirms which specific part in focus.

 

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1) was to switch to manual focus once autofocus got it close.

2) was for viewfinder zoom to help confirm fine details while rocking camera or turning focus dial.

My GH5 has a pinpoint focus option where it zoom in so you can confirn prior to pulling trigger.

There are many different ways to look at fine-tuning focus. I guess it depends on personal preferemce, and if you have the focus gear. How 'complex' the subject or it's surroundings, and even water clarity / fresh water mixing are usually the determining factors for me when using the 60mm. If there is alot of plankton or silt in the water, or the subject is surrounded by comlex growth autofocus alone doesnt cut it.

Good luck

Adam

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My solution for my old EM5 mk1 was to program the two Function buttons;

 

1) was to switch to manual focus once autofocus got it close.

 

2) was for viewfinder zoom to help confirm fine details while rocking camera or turning focus dial.

 

My GH5 has a pinpoint focus option where it zoom in so you can confirn prior to pulling trigger.

 

There are many different ways to look at fine-tuning focus. I guess it depends on personal preferemce, and if you have the focus gear. How 'complex' the subject or it's surroundings, and even water clarity / fresh water mixing are usually the determining factors for me when using the 60mm. If there is alot of plankton or silt in the water, or the subject is surrounded by comlex growth autofocus alone doesnt cut it.

 

Good luck

 

 

Adam

 

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Not sure what options you have on the EM5 Mk1, I have programmed a function button to show peaking when I'm looking trying to lock onto something specific and I find that works quite well.