GH5 Settings

Hi Everyone -

I made the plunge to upgrade from a gopro to a GH5. Camera is in hand, but probably going to pull the trigger on the housing early next week. It will be a month before I can get in the water with it.

I have gone through a youtube 2 hour tutorial and that was pretty comprehensive and going to shoot some video this weekend on land as I learn the camera.

I have two questions...

1. Any special settings that you have found to be good UW? (I have seen some reference to 30P underwater - but not sure size) (I saw the 2014 post on GH4 settings- That may be valid for GH5?)

2. Are you just using a white dive slate for custom white balance?

OK - a third question...

3. Are you doing a custom WB like every 20' of depth??

Thanks - I appreciate your knowledge.

Chris

1. I shoot 4k60p in 150mbs LongGOP 90% of the time. Gives you great flexibility to play it back at normal speed or 2.5x slowmotion in a 24fps timeline. Can also zoom in in post if delivering to 1080p. Standard picture profile, 1/125 shutter (or 180/179 degree shutter -- the latter supposedly produces better continuous autofocus results, but I rarely use CAF -- just not sufficiently reliable or necessary, imo).

2. I've tried white balancing off a custom 18% grey card and off my palm. The latter gives much more pleasing results IMO. For whatever reason, CWB off the grey card produces very greenish results.

3. I set a CWB off my palm for 2.5m, 5m, 7.5m and 10m depth and store it in the 4 memory banks. Then I simply switch between those stored white balance settings. Gets you in the ballpark. Below 10m, I either use the 10m CWB or switch to video lights (and either fixed WB at 5200k, the color temperature of my lights or the 2.5m CWB if the subject is a bit further away from the camera.)

1. I shoot 4k60p in 150mbs LongGOP 90% of the time. Gives you great flexibility to play it back at normal speed or 2.5x slowmotion in a 24fps timeline. Can also zoom in in post if delivering to 1080p. Standard picture profile, 1/125 shutter (or 180/179 degree shutter -- the latter supposedly produces better continuous autofocus results, but I rarely use CAF -- just not sufficiently reliable or necessary, imo).

 

2. I've tried white balancing off a custom 18% grey card and off my palm. The latter gives much more pleasing results IMO. For whatever reason, CWB off the grey card produces very greenish results.

 

3. I set a CWB off my palm for 2.5m, 5m, 7.5m and 10m depth and store it in the 4 memory banks. Then I simply switch between those stored white balance settings. Gets you in the ballpark. Below 10m, I either use the 10m CWB or switch to video lights (and either fixed WB at 5200k, the color temperature of my lights or the 2.5m CWB if the subject is a bit further away from the camera.)

Thanks Dreifish!!!!

1. I shoot 4k60p in 150mbs LongGOP 90% of the time. Gives you great flexibility to play it back at normal speed or 2.5x slowmotion in a 24fps timeline. Can also zoom in in post if delivering to 1080p. Standard picture profile, 1/125 shutter (or 180/179 degree shutter -- the latter supposedly produces better continuous autofocus results, but I rarely use CAF -- just not sufficiently reliable or necessary, imo).

 

2. I've tried white balancing off a custom 18% grey card and off my palm. The latter gives much more pleasing results IMO. For whatever reason, CWB off the grey card produces very greenish results.

 

3. I set a CWB off my palm for 2.5m, 5m, 7.5m and 10m depth and store it in the 4 memory banks. Then I simply switch between those stored white balance settings. Gets you in the ballpark. Below 10m, I either use the 10m CWB or switch to video lights (and either fixed WB at 5200k, the color temperature of my lights or the 2.5m CWB if the subject is a bit further away from the camera.)

Dreifish I believe the double frame rate is very good if you need to do macro stuff handheld...

Have you noticed any material difference between 60p and 30p in terms of colour depth and dynamic range? I am thinking 24/25p is more attractive for wide angle and if you slow down I think the NLE or your eye create interpolated frames anyway?