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Hi, I am shooting with an Olympus omd em1 mark 2 with 2 inon z240. I am using the - 0.5 stop diffuser on both of them. When I import the raw into capture one, I manually set the temperature to 4600K and tint 0,however the photo appear to have wrong colors, with a greenish tint and much cooler than expected.
Am I doing something wrong? I thought this was a no brainer, but I am not sure I am missing something or there is different issue.
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The standard diffusers are 5500K and in any case you should use auto white balance not set the temperature...
My diffusers are 4600. And what's the point of setting to auto if I know the color temperature?
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20 minutes ago, lbedogni said:My diffusers are 4600. And what's the point of setting to auto if I know the color temperature?
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You don't know the colour temperature of the whole frame you know the temperature of the strobes those are not the same
You shoot in auto and leave it as is if you have correctly used the strobes the starting point will be good and only rarely you will need to change it
My point is that I want to set the color temperature to those output from the flash, so everything which is lit vy the strobes should be correct. But apparently it isn't.You don't know the colour temperature of the whole frame you know the temperature of the strobes those are not the same
You shoot in auto and leave it as is if you have correctly used the strobes the starting point will be good and only rarely you will need to change it
3 minutes ago, lbedogni said:My point is that I want to set the color temperature to those output from the flash, so everything which is lit vy the strobes should be correct. But apparently it isn't.
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The purpose of a 4600K diffuser is not to have the frame at 4600K but to make the water look more blue. I wrote about it recently. You are not doing the right thing what you have in your mind is not the purpose of those diffusers
https://interceptor121.com/2019/09/29/creative-strobe-filters-for-wide-angle/
Agree auto white balance. If it' s green it is also likely you need more flash output, the tint = 0 is likely the cause of the green cast. Auto white balance works very well with the EM-1 MkII. I use it with mine and Z-240 and the 4600 diffusers.
The warmer diffusers are designed to overall warm the frame so when it is balanced back to neutral by auto white balance (it adds blue - shifts cooler) the water in the background becomes bluer. The camera will try to warm up the scene overall and if the light from the flash is not warm enough it will shift the water colour adding yellow and making a duller blue. You are are dealing with both ambient light and and flash light - ambient is 10000K plus possibly with a green cast and flash is 4600-5500K range.
On the subject of flash output, i'm using about half power at f8 ISO250 for subjects in the rnage of 1/2 - 1m approximately. You can manually balance photos without enough strobe power but the reults are not as good. For me using Auto WB and enough flash power the images are 90% right as I open them in the raw converter. In green temperate waters you may still have a green cast to deal with.
Ok thanks. So I am right in saying that for macro shot 4600 diffuser are mostly useless? Especially when going for dark backgrounds?
The purpose of a 4600K diffuser is not to have the frame at 4600K but to make the water look more blue. I wrote about it recently. You are not doing the right thing what you have in your mind is not the purpose of those diffusers
https://interceptor121.com/2019/09/29/creative-strobe-filters-for-wide-angle/
Ok thank you, I was thinking it wrong then. In fact, auto seems to work better for me, I was just mislead by the color temperatureAgree auto white balance. If it' s green it is also likely you need more flash output, the tint = 0 is likely the cause of the green cast. Auto white balance works very well with the EM-1 MkII. I use it with mine and Z-240 and the 4600 diffusers.
The warmer diffusers are designed to overall warm the frame so when it is balanced back to neutral by auto white balance (it adds blue - shifts cooler) the water in the background becomes bluer. The camera will try to warm up the scene overall and if the light from the flash is not warm enough it will shift the water colour adding yellow and making a duller blue. You are are dealing with both ambient light and and flash light - ambient is 10000K plus possibly with a green cast and flash is 4600-5500K range.
On the subject of flash output, i'm using about half power at f8 ISO250 for subjects in the rnage of 1/2 - 1m approximately. You can manually balance photos without enough strobe power but the reults are not as good. For me using Auto WB and enough flash power the images are 90% right as I open them in the raw converter. In green temperate waters you may still have a green cast to deal with.
It depends really as you have macro shots also with blue backgroundOk thanks. So I am right in saying that for macro shot 4600 diffuser are mostly useless? Especially when going for dark backgrounds?
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2 hours ago, Interceptor121 said:It depends really as you have macro shots also with blue background
Generally for black background it does not matter as the water is black
For macro and blue background it depends how deep you are and general ambient light
If you have a pigmy seahorse at 20 meters the water will look blue anyway if you are shallow the warm diffuser may help
At the end in Inon case both the standard and warm diffuser are -0.5 Ev unless you use cooling filters you may just stick to 4600K all times
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Ok thanks, everything loos clear now 
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