Disconnecting modelling light on z240

z240 modelling light button plastic has broken. Modelling light no longer turns off .

i have started to take apart strobe so as to disconnect modelling light .

im stuck for the moment and could use some direction on next move to free the model light module . I'm aware of the capacitors and DC voltage and have had a probe on capacitors .

if anyone has had one of these apart I'd appreciate any information that would allow me to disconnect the model light so I can continue to use the strobe .

If you can get to the connectors that go to the LED you could cut one of them?

Bill

Thanks Bill. 

Thats what I aim to do.currently I could do that to either of the flashes but the model light is deeper so at moment I need to get a bit further into the case to be able to see the wires to modelling light.  

Ive yet to figure out best way to do it . 

I would think a different approach, I can see plastic has brown around the modelling light switch, you press the switch inwards which pushes the magnet in to activate the modelling light.  That switch can be taken apart, I would disassemble the switch and remove the magnet all together.  That should turn turn the light off.  I've seen other posts on here about replacing magnets so it should be possible to disassemble and have no magnet or switch.

Thanks Chris. 

That was initially my thought . I think exterior modeling light switch is magnetic. The plastick housing is broken exposing a stainless rod that seems to be attached to the  interior . While I can see a small roll pin attached to the outboard end of the broken switch I'm not sure that removing the pin will help . 

Id love to hear from someone who has done it successfully 

It would certainly be a sweet simple solution .

Bill 

Yes it definitely is magentic.  I searched and found this post with a description of how to remove the button:

View archived post in: Z240 Manual Problem

On the Inon Z240, D2000 and D180 (and probably other Inon's), the push button assemblies for the light and TTL, located on the strobe's back,  unscrew from it for access to the magnets, without having to open the strobe case.

For your strobe. two steps are indicated:

First, reassemble the strobe carefully as the wire solder joints are fragile; make sure the O ring is clean. Test the strobe.

Second: Remove the magnet as Serge described here in 2011:

"Push the button in (don't turn it) and push a wire or a pin through the holes on the site to fix it. Than turn out the whole thing anticlockwise. This is by the way also the method to open the light switch button."

wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/43696-z240-manual-problem/       

Best of luck!

Thanks Chris and Kraken .

ive cleaned , reassembled and tested the strobe . All good there .

getting the switch out is going to be a bit more difficult as the plastic is completely broken . I think I'll have to cut off the actual switch knob plastic so I can better access the broken part that's in the grey housing and not screw up the grey housing threads .

I also just found out the switches are available from Reef Photo and Video .

Good news that the re-assembly was successful!  To remove the broken switch, if lubrication is needed, a drop of liquid detergent will be a good idea, but please do NOT use WD-40 as it will swell up the O- ring.

Please keep us posted.  

Will do Kraken 

Hi, I am flying blind on this, so excuse me if I am off.  As i visualize removing the broken holder, maybe  a cone shaped soft wood dowel might help unscrew it.  

To finish up.

I cut one side of the plastic knob off to better expose/access the broken piece still in the strobe and removed it with a pair of narrow pointy tweezers that I stuck in the plastic on either side of the stainless rod . i think the soap was helpful although I rinsed and blew it out with some air prior to removing. Switch was destroyed but threads in housing are still good .

will order a switch from Alan at Reef. 

Thank you, Merry Christmas to you all ! 

I use the modelling light only when shooting with Retra snoot which I do fairly often when vis here mediocre for WA .that and having stove back and running like usual for 30 bucks Is a far cry from a new z330 

Very good - if you are stuck and can't get the broken switch to come out an "ezy-out" of the right size from a machinery supply should help - for future reference of any others finding this thread.  You actually don't need an o-ring there is no hole to the inside from this switch.

I would also suggest testing the strobe out to be sure it is still water tight before committing to a dive with batteries installed in salt water.  It appears you have disturbed the front seal so checking that still seals will be important.  I see two options submerging in clean fresh water with no batteries installed and checking for appearance of leaks - that way if it does leak you can just dry it out.  Or you could send it in for pressure testing.  Maybe discuss with reef photo??