OUT of Focus

I recently moved from a Coolpix 4300 to an Oly C-5060. Most of my coolpix shots were in good focus, but I am having a problem with the Oly. I would say that 60% or more of my shots are out of focus.

I have tried both aufofocus and macro settings. I have continuous autofocus off, so I depress the shutter button half-way, wait and then shoot. Things are moving around too much to try any manual focusing. I am lucky if I can see much in the monitor at all underwater.

I tend to shoot in close, often in the 12-30" range. Admittedly, I am often in surgy, cloudy southern california coastal waters, so I am not exactly steady all the time.

But, something is obviously wrong. Any suggestions?

TNX.

Rick Colman

Are you shooting in manual mode? And assuming yes, what fstop and shutter speed are you using.

Also, tell us a little about your rig e.g. wide angle lens? housing manufacturer?, ports? etc.

For settings that should work see the following.

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/gide_o5060.html

and

http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gall...up_settings.htm

Today, I tried normal program, shutter priority and manual at ISO 100. Manual mode is F4 1/100 as recommended in the splashdown divers article. My rig is a PT-020 housing with normal port, usually shooting at widest angle zoom.

Normal program results in blurred (not out of focus) images cause shutter speed is too low. When I tried shutter priority at 1/100 I eliminate blurred images. However, some of these are out of focus as well. Unfortunately, the Camera Raw data does not seem to list focus mode so I can't tell whether I was in macro or autofocus.

I think autofocus MAY get fooled when you are shooting close into reef crevices, etc. by multiple surfaces.

Anyway, any additional thoughs appreciated.

Rick.

Only shoot manual. No need to even try other modes.

And for most cases use lowest ISO and 1/00 sec ... adjust F stop to get proper foreground exposure, and shoot with macro setting.

When the focus light goes on with a 1/2 press it's focused. Take the picture.

And attach a picture if you can so we can see what you mean by out of focus e.g. total picture, foreground/background depth of field etc.

How do your surface (land) shots look, say taken outdoors in daylight/sunlight? For example, use M shooting mode, shutter speed about 1/125s or faster, Aperture at f4.0 or greater, Macro mode (flower symbol), spot focus mode, zoomed in full (T) and subject between 20cm to 80cm from the lens.

Is it crisp and sharp? If yes then try using a focus-assist light underwater (like a diffused torch), especially in less than ideal conditions. If no then it may be time to return the camera to the service centre.

So, here is an image that should have been in focus. It was shot at 1/100 second at f/4. The flash fired. It SHOULD have been in focus. However, I do have the autofocus light turned off, figuring that it would not work that great underwater through a housing. Is this wrong??

TNX for any comments.

rick.

So, here is an image that should have been in focus. It was shot at 1/100 second at f/4. The flash fired. It SHOULD have been in focus. However, I do have the autofocus light turned off, figuring that it would not work that great underwater through a housing. Is this wrong??

Sorry, can't see the image.

When I said use a focus-assist light I meant use an external one, like a diffused dive torch, and not the camera's AF Illumintator.

Cheers.

I went from a Sony 707 to the Oly 8080. I've found the Oly has a much harder time focusing and I have many bad shots that are missed because it spends time trying to focus or takes a out of focus pic. This happens both wet and dry. I did find a note in the manual that says "Focusing may take some time if P-AF is set to ON when a conversion lens or underwater housing is attached to the camera." I have not had a chance to try it with P-AF set to OFF yet but hope it helps.

never ever had any focus problems with my olympus 3040 ... i ntetra housing .. unless i just didnt let it focus and i forced the shot ... it isnt even a second that it takes to focus ... and i have never found myself in a situation where by i didnt have time for it to focus.

Giles

(infact most the time unless doing zoomed macro ... it's pretty much focus free the whole time.)

In other forums, oly folks are complaining about the horrible low light focusing problems of the 8080. Looks like a problem, for UW...

I have yet to use it in warmer clearer water. I hope it works better then. Maybe I need to keep my aiming light on even during the day to help it focus. I got spoiled with the 707 which could focus in the dark.

In other forums, oly folks are complaining about the horrible low light focusing problems of the 8080.  Looks like a problem, for UW...

Like i said i dont have a 5050 or 8080 ,, but my 3040 does have a low light focusing problem .. on recent dusk dives with Alex Mustard we were photographying some fish behaviour. Now just before sunset my camera was doing fine, but after the sunset and there was no light it had some trouble focusing, but just some, and that was without a spotter or focus light.

Is anyone complaining of bad focus uw with these cameras used to an slr on land ? I have friends with both the 5050 and 8080 .. and if anything the focus and low light has got better since my 3040 which i have no problems with. It would seem more like user inpatience. with any camera the darker it gets the worse the focus gets, but if you are patient it's amazing what conditions they will focus in.

Now underwater with the olympuses, if you are using the wide angle or macro ports there are some tricks, like if you have macro port on and you zoom in you MUST havet he macro setting on .. where as zoomed out you don't have to, unless you are close enough to need it. It actually adds flexibility. Same with the wide angle .. if you zoom in .. you will probably need the macro setting on as you have forced the focus. Of course if you have the wide angle on .. you maybe dont need zoom unless you are doing a close up photo, in which case you can just move closer, but the macro setting may still be needed.

I believe that to be the same on any compact with external ports added on, but i oculd be wrong .. :?: