Welcome to the party! I did the same thing (RX100 II) to D850, except I had 3 years of D810 in between. Nauticam housing here, 230mm dome, 16-35vr and 105vr. Dual YS-D1 strobes and a Kraken focus light.
I don't have a ton of experience with the D850 rig (only about 50 dives, 150 or so on the D810 rig). But I can tell you a few things that have worked or didn't work. Let me start with stuff that didn't work, or was problematical.
1. 60mm macro - tried it with the idea of being able to shoot more normal subjects than the 105, but the problem here is that 60mm is way way too short for FX.
2. 1.4TC on 105vr - tried this with mixed results. I only tried it on the D850, but my feeling was that it slowed the autofocus down to about what the bare 105 felt like on a D810. I loved the 150mm focal length, which was just what I was going for. I typically do a lot of cropping because I can't get close enough, and the 1.4 + 105 was near-perfect. What stopped me was the loss of sharpness, which was minimal, but I could see it and it bothered me.
3. Bare 16-35. (Or with a +2 diopter). Performance for all those years on the D810 was lamentable. I always always had to crop corners and edges due to loss of sharpness. And then I discovered the Sea and Sea Internal Correction Lens. (More on that in the what works section).
4. Carrying the rig. Tell us what you've got so far, or planned. For me, everything revolves around that 230mm dome. It takes about half my carryon, and I can't just stuff things inside it or put it in a suitcase. I travel with a roller bag, and a waist bag, and I still have to put a 90mm extension tube (filled with arm clamps) and the 105 macro port in the suitcase. With the dome port mounted, the rig is over 30lbs above water.
5. Video autofocus. OK, I do next to nothing with video above water, so I'm not the guy to ask about this. But in my few attempts at trying to video something underwater, autofocus just seemed hopelessly slow.
What works:
1. 77mm Sea and Sea Internal Correction Lens for the 16-35vr. What a HUGE improvement that $400 item made!! I don't even feel the need to stop down the lens for the corners on a lot of shots now. Don't shoot without this.
2. ISO 64. At least when shooting with flash, you want to live at this ISO once you see how much room there is to post-process here. It's amazing how quickly that latitude disappears, even by ISO 200 you can easily feel the difference.
3. Kraken 3500 focus light. Nice and bright, and the battery lasts the whole dive, unlike my old V24 Fishlite.
4. I use a Nauticam 180 degree viewfinder. It's an expensive accessory, but it makes it possible to see the entire viewfinder display with a mask on. It also helps to stabilize the camera when I press it up against my mask.
5. Minimum shutter speed of 1/160th. Depending on the strobe, going past 1/200th may result in shading. I found 1/160th when using the RX100.
I generally shoot in manual now, including strobe settings. I used to use TTL on the D810, but I don't have TTL available on the D850, and frankly it's not been much of a hindrance or a learning curve on the strobe. I've been shooting manual on the camera for some time now, so no difference there. I'm usually starting at 1/160th-1/200th (with flash), F8 with 16-35 and F16 on the 105vr. F16 is often not enough depth of field, so I'm not afraid to go up to F32 there in cases. The wide angle is used more with ambient, and shutter speeds and ISO vary with conditions.
Compared to the RX100 underwater, you are going to LOVE the D850. Except perhaps for the complete lack of lens options in the midrange. I sometimes find myself wishing I had the RX100 under one arm so I could grab the shots I'm missing between 16-36 and 105mm. Then one time in Jamaica I did switch back to the RX100. Boy, that IQ is disappointing once you've gotten used to a D810/D850 underwater. You'll love the focus performance of the D850, except for video.