Exposing Blue Water correctly with only a -/+2 EV readout?

I think this applies to most Canon dSLR users (other than the 1Dxxxx group)...I noticed on my 20D that the exposure readout only goes from -2 to +2, so when exposing for blue water, do you simply drop a few clicks below that level and just adjust based on the feedback in the image preview? With my previous experience with a 5050, I had -3 to +3 on the readout, and it was always a 1/3 to 1/2 stop or so below -3 for good deep blue.

Suggestions?

~Matt Segal

Of course if you are shooting raw you can adjust this in your den on the PC.

No, you can't effectively, because adjusting exposure also affects your foreground subject. Why not get it right u/w for something that is easily done?

~Matt Segal

This isn't answering my question...

~Matt Segal

I ignore the exposure readout and base my adjustments on the histogram. Seems to work.

Stu

Adjusting the blue afterwards doesn't often hold up in print, especially if you have the sun near or close to your frame. Always try to get it right the first time.

I tend to underexpose by 2/3 stop or so, but if you're shooting animals that can potentially fill the frame you want to meter -2/3 -- but in manual mode, because if your critter fills the frame you'll overexpose the background (blue is brighter than critters, usually).

I usually meter -1 stop on mid-water and that seems to work for me. I like to shoot wide-angles at f11 or 8 so I adjust my shutter and/or ASA to give me that number.

As an old film shooter, I have discovered that the ability to change ASA is a major advantage of digital. I like to start a dive set at ASA100 but if conditions are not bright enough I don't hesitate to switch to 200 or even 400. At least on the Fuji S2 it doesn't seem to degrade the image very much.

Larry

Sorry, I thought the question was about exposure compensation. I guess the question you are asking is about exposure itself. I'd agree that metering the water a bit under as has been suggested is the way to go.