D 70 topside questions

This question is strictly a topside question. While I shoot strictly manually and post process the vast majority of my photos, this question does not usually come into play. There are times,however,that I want to take quick snapshots in the Auto mode and do not wish to do ANY post processing. Primarily my wife uses this setting a lot,as it is the only one she knows how to use. The photos always seem to be drasticly underexposed. Im aware that this is designed in by Nikon to help avoid blown highlights. My question is this.....is there any way to get a seemingly properly exposed pic directly out of the camera without any post processing in the Auto mode? Thanks for any input!

Do a Google search for 'white wedding curves' these can be downloaded to your camera and help a great deal with the tonality of your photos. It may help. the other thing to try is using semi spot metering instead of matrix, it depend on what your shooting. Hope this helps.

Alex

You definately want to download one of the customized tone curves or make one yourself as alexa suggested. A user on dpreview.com named fotogenic has some good ones such as White Wedding. Find his website for a full explanation. Basically, its not that the D70/D100 underexposes by about 2/3 a stop to protect highlights but that certain tones are muted by the default settings. But The D70/D100 allows you to change these. You can undo any of these setting on a RAW file and even with RAW it helps provide a better starting point. With quick JPG files you don't want to postprocess you get brighter colors while protecting highlights most of the time. You can download a customized tone curve with Nikon Capture 4.1 (optional purchase $100 but very useful in processing your RAW photos you take underwater). If you don't like the ones that Fotogenic or OldSkool (another dpreview user with a website) has you can also create your own or modify theirs in Nikon Capture.

I use the white wedding curve but am considering changing to Provia.

One more important note. To use the custom curves you need to be in the P mode at least (also works in Aperture Shutter or Manual modes) but not in the dumb green auto mode, or the program settings (portriat, scenic macro etc.). The auto modes use the default settings. You should use the P mode for all your quick point and shoot shots anyway. The P mode allows you to change the aperture/shutter speed without affecting the exposure and won't pop up the flash unexpectedly (like when you turned off the SB800). Its still auto mode where you don't have to do much thinking but it allows you some control when you want it.

Or just add some exposure compensation. +.7 should do the trick.

Exposure compensation will improve the overall brightness of the image but it treats all tones equally--which isn't really the problem. Its the bright tones that are muted by the Nilon processing. This is a quick fix that is better than nothing but it will likely lead to overexposure in many cases.

The tone curves adjust just what is needed and don't run the risk of overexposure (as much).

Also note that you can only use exposure compensation in P A, S or M modes not in the dumb green auto mode or the program modes (portrait, scenic, macro etc.)

Someone better at image processing than I should come up with a set of tone curves that work well underwater--that produce that dark blue background and saturated reds that is so appealing.

Try P mode as opposed to Auto.

I use this setting quite often and find it works well in about 75% of situations

The P mode is much better to use than the Green Auto mode. It is the same as Green Auto mode, except it allows you to override many of the settings when required for desired. The same is true on Canon and for most point-and-shoot digicams that offer the same choice. I use P as the default and have no complaints. If a picture looks underexposed, you can always compensate and/or adjust the white balance out of the default auto WB mode. You may find that dialing in a half-stop of exposure comp works most of the time. If so, just leave it as a defacto default.

You might consider A mode. Sure you have to adjust the Apeture, but not often, and it's not difficult to learn.

For instance, on a generally sunny day, I'll stick my 18-70 lens on F8 and never take it off. Thom of bythom.com seems to think F8 is the sharpest apeture of the lens, so I try to shoot in F8 as much as possible. Unless I'm trying to go for something different.

Is this more of a problem for yourself or your wife? If your wife is just getting into digital photography I would recomend getting her a digicam to start working with. She will probably be much happier getting some good shots off the start and later on teach her the particulars of a dslr. As was mentioned earlier use the P mode it works well and generally does not get fooled. Another thing is to shoot in Raw format and you will always be able to rescue a shot.

Tony

Exposure compensation will improve the overall brightness of the image but it treats all tones equally--which isn't really the problem

It's not clear exactly what the problem is. The statement was simply:

The photos always seem to be drasticly underexposed.

Before downloading and applying new tone curves, a simple EV comp may provide a satisfactory solution.

Thanks for the adivice. I already tried some of the suggestions before posting. Im trying out some of the custom curves . This seems to be the answer to my problem.Im just trying to find the right one and/modify one that I feel gives me the best results. White Wedding definatly brightened things up,but I was not happy with the color. Thanks again for the info!