Nauticam HDMI 2.0 cables

I know the 1.4 cables had a history of breaking. But I was wondering how the new M28 bulkhead and 2.0 cables are performing?

I have an Atomos Ninja V that eventually I would use for prores raw or 50 fps but I am concerned about the track record of this solution

Anybody has field experience with this?

The HDMI 2.0 Cables from Nauticam do appear to be slightly thinker so maybe the outer sleeve is stronger.

However the major benefit of the new M28 bulkhead is that there is zero breaks in the cable now. It’s straight monitor to camera. So are easier to replace as a whole and not have to wonder if it’s the internal cable or external cable that has gone bad.

Still will go bad with the slightest incorrect twist or undue pressure applied mind!


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Where I can see the difference between the two bulkheads?

I never investigated which bulkhead I have on my three years old NA-GH5.

Someone cares to add some photo?

P.S.

@thetrickster I'm still using the first cable you gave me. Everything is fine so far ...

7 minutes ago, Davide DB said:

Where I can see the difference between the two bulkheads?

I never investigated which bulkhead I have on my three years old NA-GH5.

Someone cares to add some photo?

 

P.S.

@thetrickster I'm still using the first cable you gave me. Everything is fine so far ...

NA-GH5 M16

NA-GH5V M28

I have Nauticam housings for the 502 HD monitor and Canon R6 that I bought recently.  The thick HDMI cable passes through the monitor housing without interruption.  However on the camera housing there are two connections required at the bulkhead, both micro HDMI

Inside the camera housing is a much smaller wire with male micro HDMI plugs at each end, one going into the camera and the other to the bulkhead.  I think it's this wire that has the bad reputation.

With my setup, Nauticam didn't take advantage of the larger M24 opening on the camera housing since a M24-M16 step down adapter is required to mount the double female micro HDMI adapter.

The problem is you have to back out the camera each time you change the battery, which requires slack and flexibility.  The HDMI 2.0 cable  is way too thick for that and needs to be reduced to a thinner cable.  In the monitor housing, which uses a full size HDMI plug, you can connect it and not have to touch it for the entire trip, or forever as long as the cable stays good.

I have been very gentle with these wires and have not had a problem after close to a 100 dives.  I do travel with spare cables and would factor in that cost when buying these monitors.

11 hours ago, helgromite said:

I have Nauticam housings for the 502 HD monitor and Canon R6 that I bought recently.  The thick HDMI cable passes through the monitor housing without interruption.  However on the camera housing there are two connections required at the bulkhead, both micro HDMI

Inside the camera housing is a much smaller wire with male micro HDMI plugs at each end, one going into the camera and the other to the bulkhead.  I think it's this wire that has the bad reputation.

With my setup, Nauticam didn't take advantage of the larger M24 opening on the camera housing since a M24-M16 step down adapter is required to mount the double female micro HDMI adapter.

The problem is you have to back out the camera each time you change the battery, which requires slack and flexibility.  The HDMI 2.0 cable  is way too thick for that and needs to be reduced to a thinner cable.  In the monitor housing, which uses a full size HDMI plug, you can connect it and not have to touch it for the entire trip, or forever as long as the cable stays good.

I have been very gentle with these wires and have not had a problem after close to a 100 dives.  I do travel with spare cables and would factor in that cost when buying these monitors.

 

 

In your case the monitor is HMDI 1.4 is the camera that has the 2.0 but you don't have a 2.0 cable. Am I correct?

Ah you are correct.  I was confusing my 1.4 HDMI with the newer 2.0 cable, that does run from the Ninja V to camera without a break.  Then the weak point is likely to be the plug going into the camera, where the connection is torqued or disconnected when changing batteries, especially the micro plugs on Canon R5/6s.

Ah you are correct.  I was confusing my 1.4 HDMI with the newer 2.0 cable, that does run from the Ninja V to camera without a break.  Then the weak point is likely to be the plug going into the camera, where the connection is torqued or disconnected when changing batteries, especially the micro plugs on Canon R5/6s.