From B to Z, help please.

Hi all

I am choosing my setup for uwphotography. My starting point is a canon S400 camera + it's canon WP-DC800 housing that i have already.

I want to choose a strobe. I think I will go for the new Inon D-2000 + W3 kit and AD mount adapter because it has TTL control with my camera.

Is it a good choice? Will it still work if I upgrade to a DSLR?

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.html?p...?product_id=233

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.html?p...?product_id=102

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.html?p...?product_id=142

Secondly, what diffuser shall I buy? I guess this one: External Auto Non-Compatible -0.5 Diffuser. But in white or in blue? What is the difference?

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.html?p...?product_id=236

Then, what arm and tray do you recommend? Is the Inon D-III a good choice? I fear there is not much possibility to adjust the position of the strobe, is it right? What shall I beware of?

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.html?p...?product_id=153

Then, is it worth getting a WA lens like the UWL-105AD? or should I wait and buy a dome lens?

http://www.inonamerica.com/products.html?p...?product_id=189

And last question, I cannot find a filter holder for this setup. I understand I can find a solution myself like cutting & putting it in the housing but is it the only solution or there is something I did not see?

Thanks a lot

bye

Frederic

If you are truly expecting to upgrade to a DSLR, I would think the Inon 220 would be a better choice. You may not have TTL for now, but you will want to learn manual setup anyway for the future! The 2000 is an optical only strobe, and the 220 can be triggered either optically (for this camera) or with a sync cord (for the DSLR).

As to strobe arms and tray, take a look at the ULCS setup, as you will want the adjustability, and this will carry over (the arms and clams at least) to the DSLR as well.

I would also get the -.5 diffuser, as it softens the light, and covers a bit wider angle. I am not sure about the colors, as this seems to be a new offering, and I am have no experience with anything but the standard ones. The 220 comes with both a -.5 and a -3 diffuser.

If you are going to get a WAL, you will probably be better served with the Dome. Everyone that starts using one never goes back! It gives 130 degree coverage instead of 100 degrees. There is also the advantage that you can, to some extent, zoom with the dome on, whereas if you try that with a flat WAL, you get severe distortion in the corners of the picture.

HTH

Hi Richard, thanks for the answers

If you are truly expecting to upgrade to a DSLR, I would think the Inon 220 would be a better choice.  You may not have TTL for now, but you will want to learn manual setup anyway for the future! The 2000 is an optical only strobe, and the 220 can be triggered either optically (for this camera) or with a sync cord (for the DSLR).

Then, would the ikelite DS50 or 125 be a better solution because they can get linked to a slave TTL sensor cell that I can put off in case I upgrade to a DSLR. Like this I have the benefit of the TTL with my digicam and I still can keep the strobe in case I upgrade to a DSLR. Right?

http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/ikelite...lash/slave.html

As to strobe arms and tray, take a look at the ULCS setup, as you will want the adjustability, and this will carry over (the arms and clams at least) to the DSLR as well.

I willl look for that, thanks

If you are going to get a WAL, you will probably be better served with the Dome. Everyone that starts using one never goes back! It gives 130 degree coverage instead of 100 degrees. There is also the advantage that you can, to some extent, zoom with the dome on, whereas if you try that with a flat WAL, you get severe distortion in the corners of the picture.

OK, so I will wait and see if I want a second flash because I have read it was hard to fullfill the range of the dome with only one flash. Is that right?

Is it a real big improvement in quality of the photos while using two flashes?

thanks

Bye

Frederic

The S400 is a poor choice for underwater photography as it has no manual controls. It will select F2.8 every time, and all of your photos will be washed out blue/green.

I suggest you have a look at a camera that you can control the shutterspeed and aperture, perhaps the Canon S60 or S70 or the similar Olympus or Fuji. They all have available underwater housings and are only slightly more expensive.

HTH

James

OK, so I will wait and see if I want a second flash because I have read it was hard to fullfill the range of the dome with only one flash. Is that right?

Is it a real big improvement in quality of the photos while using two flashes?

Yes, it's hard to fill the range of the dome with a single Inon 180.

See the lionfish in the 9th dive, and the cave pictures in the 5th

through 8th dives.

http://lionfishd.tripod.com/

Don't know about quality improvement with two flashes, yet.

Dan S.

The S400 is a poor choice for underwater photography as it has no manual controls.  It will select F2.8 every time, and all of your photos will be washed out blue/green.

 

I suggest you have a look at a camera that you can control the shutterspeed and aperture, perhaps the Canon S60 or S70 or the similar Olympus or Fuji.  They all have available underwater housings and are only slightly more expensive.

 

HTH

James

Hi James

I know that. Unfortunately i have the digicam since last year and buying a new one + housing + flash... etc, is out of my budget. This is why I prefer getting the flash, see what I can do with it, and in the future see for a new digicam or a second hand DSLR.

Bye

Hi Richard, thanks for the answers

 

If you are truly expecting to upgrade to a DSLR, I would think the Inon 220 would be a better choice.  You may not have TTL for now, but you will want to learn manual setup anyway for the future! The 2000 is an optical only strobe, and the 220 can be triggered either optically (for this camera) or with a sync cord (for the DSLR).

 

Then, would the ikelite DS50 or 125 be a better solution because they can get linked to a slave TTL sensor cell that I can put off in case I upgrade to a DSLR. Like this I have the benefit of the TTL with my digicam and I still can keep the strobe in case I upgrade to a DSLR. Right?

I think I will go for the D-2000, even if the 220 looks more sophisiticated.

In fact I live in l'Ile de la Réunion. (How knows?) and I think I will be able to sell it back there without any loss when I'll want to change, because I will buy it from Japan directly. Plus it is TTL and more sophiticated than the ikelite strobes (right?)

Yes, it's hard to fill the range of the dome with a single Inon 180.

 

See the lionfish in the 9th dive, and the cave pictures in the 5th

through 8th dives.

 

http://lionfishd.tripod.com/

 

Don't know about quality improvement with two flashes, yet.

 

             Dan S.

Hi Dan

thanks for the info.

I think I will wait and see if I really want a dome + second flash

Bye