Problem Ikelite TTL converter for Sony

Hi, I'm Val, from New Zealand. I have a Sony a7R II with a Tamron 20mm f/2.8 and an Ikelite 200DL housing. I used to shot both video and photos with underwater video light, but 6 months ago I also bought a Ikelite strobe DS161 with a sync cord (45151) and a Ikelite DL2 DS Link Sony TTL Converter.

But unfortunately the TTL converter is not working properly and it is useless as it is for me. The problems I encounter are  that 80% of the time I shot in TTL I do get black photos. Not just dark but black, even if I can see the strobe firing. So I start just shooting manual, deactivating the TTL function. I press the bottom on the TTL converter and the light turns red. The problem is that then after one (or sometimes 2-3) shots, the light turns blue again and I start getting black photos again. But this problem only occurs underwater and never on the surface...

I sent the TTL back to Ikelite and they say that it is everything fine...but when I use it, it's not fine at all. I've used the Ikelite troubleshooting guide and I have all the right settings. All the connectors from the strobe to the housing bulkhead are shiny and there is no sign of corrosion at all. 

I'm getting mad on this, because I spent a lot of money on Ikelite to be able to use TTL with my Sony, but it doesn't work with me. For my use, TTL is essential: I often need the camera to work and I can't afford the time to change settings every shot.

Is there anyone that have an idea of what the problem might be?

Thank you,

Valerio

Hi Val

Can you create this same problem if you have the equipment set up above water? I'm wondering if the camera's position in the housing is slightly out of alignment and the additional underwater pressure on a button is causing issues. I've seen this happen before with Ikelite housings - although not as a TTL issue.

But if it is the same above water as below, it's probably not that. But maybe worth eliminating as an issue.

I was speaking to a local diver some time back who told me he was having trouble with his ikelite TTL converter.  He thought the issue was a problem with sealing on the external TTL module that didn't short but was enough to interfere with the signals.  He didn't think the external modules were as reliable as the old internal ones.  Yours might be a similar issue?  You may need to be more insistent with them - the fact that they can't reproduce the problem does not mean it doesn't exist.

On 8/2/2021 at 10:34 PM, TimG said:

Hi Val

Can you create this same problem if you have the equipment set up above water? I'm wondering if the camera's position in the housing is slightly out of alignment and the additional underwater pressure on a button is causing issues. I've seen this happen before with Ikelite housings - although not as a TTL issue.

But if it is the same above water as below, it's probably not that. But maybe worth eliminating as an issue.

 

Thank you Tim. I know what you mean, I had a similar problem with my old RX100,. But this time it should not be the case; the Ikelite TTL modality doesn't seem to be influenced by the camera.

Thank you Chris, I'll do.

I've had issues with this as well with my old housing.  Haven't had an issue with new one with a separate TTL circuit. I did change out the sync cord which did seem to fix the problem. So, maybe a thought. Also, just want to make sure you're shooting at 1/250 or below. I'm sure you are as you've said settings are correct. But, just checking... If all those are fine, I would force the issue with Ikelite to send you a new TTL circuit. Maybe have them pay for you to send back the housing and TTL circuit as it might be the internal wires that connect the housing and sync cord.

On 8/5/2021 at 9:55 AM, Btscott said:

I've had issues with this as well with my old housing.  Haven't had an issue with new one with a separate TTL circuit. I did change out the sync cord which did seem to fix the problem. So, maybe a thought. Also, just want to make sure you're shooting at 1/250 or below. I'm sure you are as you've said settings are correct. But, just checking... If all those are fine, I would force the issue with Ikelite to send you a new TTL circuit. Maybe have them pay for you to send back the housing and TTL circuit as it might be the internal wires that connect the housing and sync cord.

Ikelite just said that too, and my local dealer is now shipping to me a new sync cord to try. Hope it's that.

Yes, I'm shooting at 1/250. I really exclude that is something due to the settings.

Just an update, the new sync cord didn't fix the problem, so it must be either the strobe or the TTL converter.

I still exclude any issue with the camera, because the camera can't influence the state of the TTL converter (TTL mode/manual mode). Even if I switch the camera off or I pull out the strobe hot shoe the TTL converter light doesn't change color. The same should be for the hot shoe connection, I don't think it can influence the TTL. I also exclude any water leaking, because, by this time, I would have quite a lot of corrosion. But the connectors are all shiny.

Fortunately I managed to replicate the problem without having to go for a dive. A fish bin full of tap water is enough to trigger the issue. It seems that the problem occurs only when the system is submerged, and not when it's outside the water, even if the setup is still wet. 

I've made a video that describes the problem: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-bJV-mnhWBcHYG_Hlr_eVunc0dPkFJr6/view?usp=sharing

Let's see what Ikelite says. 

3 hours ago, Val90 said:

Just an update, the new sync cord didn't fix the problem, so it must be either the strobe or the TTL converter.

I still exclude any issue with the camera, because the camera can't influence the state of the TTL converter (TTL mode/manual mode). Even if I switch the camera off or I pull out the strobe hot shoe the TTL converter light doesn't change color. The same should be for the hot shoe connection, I don't think it can influence the TTL. I also exclude any water leaking, because, by this time, I would have quite a lot of corrosion. But the connectors are all shiny.

Fortunately I managed to replicate the problem without having to go for a dive. A fish bin full of tap water is enough to trigger the issue. It seems that the problem occurs only when the system is submerged, and not when it's outside the water, even if the setup is still wet. 

I've made a video that describes the problem: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-bJV-mnhWBcHYG_Hlr_eVunc0dPkFJr6/view?usp=sharing

Let's see what Ikelite says. 

To be clear the leakage I was referring to was not in the connectors that would be relatively easy to find as it would cause corrosion as you say.  He thought it was getting into the sealed TTL module itself, not enough to destroy the module but enough to cause a short.  For example the button on the module would be sealed and this is quite possibly separated from the circuitry of the TTL module itself so it could short there but not impact the main circuit.

Hi Val,

I'm having the exact same issue with my Canon R5 in Aquatica housing.  Did Ikelite ever solve the problem for you?