Any tips on how to properly use Inon's rotatable light shades? They come bundled with Z-330 and D-200 and honestly I don't really know what to do with them Inon's manual says that they can (quote):
Quote
dramatically suppress flare or ghost by not shining camera lens directly and backscatter when a strobe is positioned to vicinity or ahead of lens port
I always pull my strobes well behind the dome port to avoid hotspots, so there's no chance of flaring or ghosting. If I shoot CFWA and turn the shades towards the dome, they block the inner parts of the light beam and I just get a shadow in the middle of the frame. The only time that I put my strobes in line with or in front of the port is when shooting macro, but I've never experienced any ghosting or flaring with a macro lens yet. So usually I just turn them so that they are facing outside and forget about them for the rest of the dive. But they must serve some purpose, otherwise I guess Inon wouldn't bother to put them there. In which case do you find them valuable?
I find the best way to use them is to leave them at home
I try to remember to put them toward the sand when I’m on the bottom with a wider lens, thinking it helps prevent blowout.
This photographer found them marginal-to-useless for wide but helpful for macro, including control of the background. I’m leaving for a couple of macro weeks on Monday, so this is timely. Glad you asked!
I only use them for macro when I don't have a snoot. If you angle them away from the lens they can block a little bit of the strobe light from hitting undesired background with the strobes turned inward towards the lens. Without the light shades you just have to angle the strobes a little more inwards, no biggie.
36 minutes ago, rickmorgan said:
This photographer found them marginal-to-useless for wide but helpful for macro, including control of the background. I’m leaving for a couple of macro weeks on Monday, so this is timely. Glad you asked!
Thanks for this, great article with illustrated examples. I'm planning to go shooting olms in a nearby cave this weekend where the visibility is usually so-so. Perfect opportunity to try out these tips.
I would add for those considering buying these strobes new that the current Z-330 type II has two upgrades. first the Fly-eye coating which only covers the flash tubes on the Z-330 now covers the entire dome on type II creating a much softer light over the entire coverage area and eliminates some of the need for defusers while retaining the full power output. Second the Z-330 shade is black and does not reflect light well while the type-II model has a reflective coating.
The Dive Photo Guide article posted above demonstrates the usefulness in some macro situations and I would agree that if you are shooting wide lenses near a reflective bottom that much of the light can be diverted from blowing out highlights.
The downside is that if you want to remove the shades as Adam suggested do it as soon as you get the strobes. They become more and more difficult to remove as you use them. For best results they should be removed after every dive day and cleaned or they will soon stick in place.
Question, as I am considering buying a pair of Z330's: What causes the shades to stick in place, is it plastic degeneration, or shrinkage or just dirt in the crack?
The ring for the shade on one of my strobes broke off a couple of months ago. I don't miss it.
They screw off and can get gritty. Probably not a bad idea to clean it now and then.
I remove mine after beach dives because of sand and put a very small amount of lube on the threads. Salt water is also a bit of a problem. This is not even a small issue because if you are cleaning equipment after diving the salt dissolve. The new Z-330 type II strobes are the same $650.00US as original model. I have had two Inon Z-330's since late 2017 and have traveled the world with them. I have never had a problem with the strobes or any of the accessories.
Photo with the new type II on the left and the original on the right.
I have two Z330 (old version). When near the bottom or macro, I put the shades down to the bottom. When WA, I put them towards the dome to help avaoid backscatter...
I am not shure it brings something, but use them since they are there...
I have a question to Phil: Is there a difference in light quality when using the standard diffusers that come along with the old version compared to the new version with already integrated diffusers?
Wolfgang
Hi Wolfgang,
First the type II has a much more powerful modeling light if you use them for focusing.
Regarding the new version yes the light is softer and maintains the 33 guide number (full power). If you add the white defuser to the older model you reduce the light output by -0.3 EV or more. According to Inon you should see no light output difference if you are using the 4900 or 4600 kelvin defusers. I use the color defusers most when shooting people to improve skin tones.
I have never used the white defusers with the old version or the new version.
I believe Wolfgang was asking if the use of the shade (the new one, with internal reflection) does change the quality of the light of the strobe (for instance if it makes the light area uneven)
"I have a question to Phil: Is there a difference in light quality when using the standard diffusers that come along with the old version compared to the new version with already integrated diffusers?"
pbalves,
This is the question Wolfgang ask and that I responded too. This is the diffuser I believe Wolgang is refering too.
Hi Phil. My mistake.
I have that doubt and assumed that was what Wolfgang was asking.
And regarding my question (if the reflective shade makes brighter area in any part of the cone ok light), do you know?
Thanks.
If I am understanding your question, the shade reflects light but it will not increase the intensity of the light. So I have not had any images that have hot spots in the frame as a result of the light being redirected back into the frame.
Inon's manual says that they can (quote):
