Sony 28-60 on APS-C camera

This is probably a really dumb question but will the Sony 28-60 lens work with a Sony 6400 APS-C camera and the Fantasea UWL-09F?

Probably, but it won't be as wide as on FF. Kind of defeats the point.

why not use the 16-50 for APSC

1 hour ago, lancelot365 said:

why not use the 16-50 for APSC

I am presently using the Sony 16-50. But when using the UWL-09F, I find that I either have to go to lower aperture or higher ISO than I would like so was just thinking about other possible options. I will be in Pompano in a few weeks so I think I will also try decreasing shutter speed; I usually use 1/100 or 1/125 second. My first day in Pompano will probably be my two deepest dives (Capt. Dan and RSB-1) so I will probably try 1/80 second but I believe that this is a relatively small change compared to ISO and aperture changes.

52 minutes ago, rwe said:

I am presently using the Sony 16-50. But when using the UWL-09F, I find that I either have to go to lower aperture or higher ISO than I would like so was just thinking about other possible options. I will be in Pompano in a few weeks so I think I will also try decreasing shutter speed; I usually use 1/100 or 1/125 second. My first day in Pompano will probably be my two deepest dives (Capt. Dan and RSB-1) so I will probably try 1/80 second but I believe that this is a relatively small change compared to ISO and aperture changes.

try wwl-c or wwl-1if you want higher image quality.

Also a6400 has a dual gain sensor, so you can safely use ISO 100 and ISO 320(400), they basically has the same dynamic range. That will give you extra 2 stops if you need.

1 hour ago, rwe said:

I am presently using the Sony 16-50. But when using the UWL-09F, I find that I either have to go to lower aperture or higher ISO than I would like so was just thinking about other possible options. I will be in Pompano in a few weeks so I think I will also try decreasing shutter speed; I usually use 1/100 or 1/125 second. My first day in Pompano will probably be my two deepest dives (Capt. Dan and RSB-1) so I will probably try 1/80 second but I believe that this is a relatively small change compared to ISO and aperture changes.

What is the concern - needing to stop down to get adequate image quality - or a different concern?

3 hours ago, rwe said:

I am presently using the Sony 16-50. But when using the UWL-09F, I find that I either have to go to lower aperture or higher ISO than I would like so was just thinking about other possible options.

It sounds like you're having issues exposing backgrounds while maintaining decent corner sharpness on ultrawide (weitwinkel). Welcome to the club. 28-60mm will not help, aside from narrowing your field of view to the point where corner sharpness is not much of an issue anymore - but to get decent composition, you have to stay way back, which will severely degrade the picture overall. You can easily simulate this by zooming your 16-50mm to 28mm and trying to shoot it that way.

I don't have a wet wide lens, but I shoot a 10-18mm behind a dome, so I'm facing similar issues. What helps is setting ISO to 400 (that's where dual gain kicks in on the A6300 and newer cameras, reducing noise), slowing down the shutter to 1/80s, possibly 1/50s if the scene permits (i.e. no rapidly-moving fish), and then stopping down the aperture until I'm happy with exposure.

If your corners are just water (large pelagics, schooling fish, divers in open water, etc), then there's no problem with shooting wider apertures.

One possible alternative is to use a fisheye lens (such as a Tokina 10-17mm) with a dome - they're more tolerant of open apertures.

I do frequently go up to ISO 400 when using the UWL-09F and have no issues with this. It is when I get to 800 or above that I have concerns with stills although video seem less affected.

While I admit to finding the issue of lens zoom range info quite confusing, the UWL-09F literature says it yields a 130 degree FOV at 28 mm. Assuming all camera lens mm's are stated as full frame equivalents, then I should still be able get that FOV with the 28-60 mm lens. While not as wide as the 16-50, I thought maybe not unreasonable since I usually have to zoom to about 18-20 anyway to not see the lens hood and its starts to get a little more fisheye than I like at the lowest zoom.

So on my wreck dives in Pompano in a few weeks I will start at ISO 400 and try going to slower shutter speeds of 1/80 or maybe less and see what it looks like on the screen when viewing ambient conditions to evaluate background.

Thanks for your inputs,

Rick

23 minutes ago, rwe said:

While I admit to finding the issue of lens zoom range info quite confusing, the UWL-09F literature says it yields a 130 degree FOV at 28 mm. Assuming all camera lens mm's are stated as full frame equivalents, then I should still be able get that FOV with the 28-60 mm lens.

No, that is not how it works. It gives 130 degrees FoV to a 28mm-equivalent lens behind it. A Sony A7C with a 28-60mm lens will get 130 degrees FoV, yes, but your camera has an APS-C sensor, so you need to multiply your focal length by 1.5 to get the FF-equivalent number - the 16mm on your lens is equivalent to 24mm, and so on. If you want to see how your image will look with a 28-60mm lens, just zoom yours to 28mm, going by the on-screen indicator - the 28-60mm lens won't be any different. The major difference between your 16-50mm and the 28-60mm is that the latter produces a much larger image circle, large enough to cover a full-frame sensor. You can mount it on your camera, but with the APS-C sensor, a large proportion of the lenses image circle will go outside the sensor. Likewise, you can mount your 16-50mm on a full-frame camera (A1, A7, A9), but it will only cover a part of the sensor - edges of the photo will remain black.

Compact camera lens focal lengths are generally given as full-frame equivalents - due to a wide range of sensor sizes, expecting users to convert them would be... naively optimistic. For interchangeable lens cameras, however, actual numbers are supplied, because the users are expected to be more knowledgeable, the selection of sensor sizes is much smaller (it's basically FF, APS-C, four thirds, with a tiny little bit of Fuji and Pentax medium format), lenses may be used on different cameras, and focal reducers/teleconverters can also come into play.

Put it this way - when you shoot it, what focal length are you using? Does it vignette a little bit at 16mm and you're zooming in to something like 18-19mm?