Rig bouyancy

I am taking a video light to the Red Sea for the first time this week, starting with an Anchor video light, single arm and twin handle tray. Used the handle and tray last trip with no handling problems, Canon G5X Mk2, Ikelite (lunch box) housing, Ikelite 7” arm & clamps.

the rig feels a bit clumsy when assembled on surface, so I was thinking about bouyancy and trim, as an interim measure I am considering taking a swim float with me along with the obligatory cable ties and sticky tape.

logic behind this being that a swim float costs pennies and I can cut it to suit, then change to a more professional solution in the fullness of time.

One other point about floats, they are usually black, is this to avoid colour reflections? If not, a rig that had slight positive bouyancy might benefit from a hi-viz float in case the worst happened and rig and I parted company.

any thoughts?

any t

I have found this topic elsewhere on the forum, so it seems a viable option, will give it a go.

Comments still welcome though.

Why not! I’ve seen people use a small fishing float tied to each strobe arm. If it works and you like it, why not. 

I would be wary though of positive buoyancy. I’d suggest saving that for diving on walls. It’s a risky way to lose your equipment.  

If you are thinking about the “spaghetti” type of buoy, they do not work on the deep.

You need a material that does not change volume till the depths you dive 

you can use fisher net buoys. Also cheap, and strong enough to work on diving depths.

https://www.leefisherfishing.com/collections/floats-buoys/products/can-shaped-float

I like the commercial fishing floats too.

Here's another US-based source: https://www.memphisnet.net/category/floats-pvc

I have used these and like them at least down to 100 FSW. I spray-painted most of them black just because

Tom

Positive buoyancy on a housing is generally not good it can make them difficult to handle.  Slightly negative is best.  You can always attach a lanyard for security.

Yoga blocks don't always get respect, but I've used them for more than 100 dives and been satisfied.  Two 3x9x6" blocks are $18.  I cut the block in half lengthwise and bored a 1" hole (the next set will have 1.25" holes) the long way, then cut each half in half again--this gives me four pieces which slide over a 1" float arm like the Ultralight 12".  They compress very little--I can stand on them without any indentation--and on a good day, the rig floats on the surface with the top clamps just out of the water, is slightly positive at depth, and hangs beside me at 15'.  I vary the pieces depending on light and port selection. 

Just to confirm what others have said about swim floats not working, I tried using pieces of swim floats on my strobe arms many years ago. I didn't have to go very deep to see the water pressure compress the air right out of the float material. How much the material compressed was pretty impressive.

A number newbie underwater photographers I've worked with have asked me if they can save some money by using pieces of swim floats. I've steered them to use floatation materials that don't compress as easily. There are lots of good alternative ideas posted here.

-Tinman

I bought (2 each) of these off of Amazon and they are working great after about 20 dives. I replaced the yellow o-rings with black ones I had on hand. I was a little concerned about them holding the weight of my rig with the carry lanyard attached, but so far I am very happy with them. There are many more sizes to choose from online at a fraction of the cost of Nauticam float arms. 

Seafrogs D80mm, 8'', Carbon Fiber Float Arm for Ultralight, Aquatic Arm, Buoyancy Provided 600g - $40.54 US

Seafrogs D60mm, 10'', Carbon Fiber Float Arm for Ultralight, Aquatic Arm, Buoyancy Provided 410g - $33.39 US