I'm stumped and seeking help from the community. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to provide all the details.
Many thanks in advance for your help.
Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic
Started by Lexionn ·
Read-only discussion
I'm stumped and seeking help from the community. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to provide all the details.
It sounds like the second hand strobe's photocell trigger is less sensitive than it should be. Maybe the cure is to return it and get your money back, or use a brighter trigger, or sell both strobes and buy a pair of Inons, as practically all the strobe problems narrated here involve Sea and Sea strobes.
The S&S black models have a not so good reliability reputation which is why the YS-D2J came out - get your money back if you can and find a YS-D2J.
Chris is right, sell the Sea and Sea's. And buy two Inon Z330's which are excellent strobes.
Are you using multi-core FO cables?
More cores might activate the photocell more reliably.
Thanks. Good idea. I've tested 4 different cables all with the same result so I don't think that's the determining factor. But it may of course impact.
That may be where I end up. But I find it extremely frustrating when it points to something I should be able to solve...
When you trigger the strobe manually, can you control its power? My 2 YS-D2 blew up but it took me some time to realize that they were either only firing the pre-flash, or the flash at full power, but nothing in-between. Faulty, overpowered batteries were the culprit (and killed the strobes in the process)
It doesn't sound like it's your issue here, but thought it may be helpful to check.
I can only join the others in stating that YS-D2 are not reliable...
Thanks everyone for the attempts. the YS-D2s have been returned. YS-D3s in route...
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