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Northern Mariana Island - ?

Started by phxazcraig ·

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Northern Mariana Island - ?

15 posts
  1. I'm trying to book a trip to Northern Mariana Island in January.  The driving reason is to visit a US National Park there with my daughter.  (She's visiting all and I'm helping.)  The plan is to visit for 6-7 days.

    I'm assuming there is some diving there.  Any information is useful.   Part of the time we, or she, will be hiking the park, but I want to spend some days in the water there.  I'm getting my daughter OW certified this December.

    Now if I'm going all that way, I'm not just going to be out there for a week.  I'm going to also swing over to Palua for a second week, all diving with my daughter.   Could use recommendations there too.

     

  2. I guess you mean Saipan.  I’ve been there (and the rest of the northern Pacific) a few times going back about ten years ago and was not inspired.  It was nice to be in warm water but compared to the tropics the environment and UW life felt quite sparse and colorless.  It depends on your expectations of course.  You’ll see sharks and turtles but no soft corals or much exotic macro life.  Maybe I didn’t get to the right sites but in the northern Pacific I’d rather go to Palau any day, or Yap for the mantas at the right time of year.  Apologies for no specific recommendations, but my experiences there are too dated.  

  3. Well, see I just learned that Northern Mariana Island includes Saipan!  Anyway after doing more research, I'm talking the islands of Saipan, Tinian and Rota.   However, I've also just learned something that blows my whole plan - there is no National Park there.   I'm not sure now why I've been under the impression for several years that there was one, but there is only an 'associated' cemetery.   Don't think it's worth it to go there to see a WW II cemetery.  On the other hand, I've only got a couple of the inhabited US territories left to visit.  If the diving was good, maybe.

    Palau was always on the list as a second week in this trip.

    • I visited Rota as part of a multi-destination trip to Micronesia organized by divers from Alaska and Washington state during the 1990s. Rota was the last destination that we visited. One of the main attractions was a large upright shipwreck in very high underwater visibility. Memorable for me was my first successful photo of a lionfish using a Nikonos RS. Previously (I recall it being Palau) I saw a group of eight of them under the overhang of a small island at the end of a lunch break that I failed to get a shot of because my strobe synch cable (Ikelite to Nikonos) failed. I went to the boat to swap it out but by then it was time to go. This was prior to going to Rota on that trip.

      I was in Palau in Feb. of this year (2023). I was part of a group that was led by Stephen Frink. It was a land based trip. We stayed in the very nice and posh Palau Royal Resort. It is one of several partner hotels of Sam’s Dive Tours our dive provider. The advantage of choosing one of these (see their web site) is that they will provide transportation to and from the hotel to the dive store. This was only needed on the first and last days as the boats we dived on came and picked us up at the hotel’s dock. Convenient as we had a large group that required two boats. This year the weather was quite wet with no sunny days as I had experienced previously. It was very much like summer in coastal Alaska only slightly warmer (air temps). The water was noticeably warmer than the air on some days. Runoff reduced visibility but this was quite variable. I can see some particles in many of my shots. The Jellyfish Lake population of jellyfish was quite low so we did not go. Swell coming into Chandelier Cave led us to cancel that was well. There was some variability between the two boats with some dives being optional but I got to do Ulong Channel 4 times. Currents are quite variable - direction and intensity - doing the same site multiple times is a good idea if you want to get the shots.

    Edited by Tom_Kline
  4. Thanks for the info.   Looking for reasons to visit Saipan, Tinian or Rota, and reasons to avoid any of them.   It was going to be bucket list stuff for both of us - National Parks for her, Territories for me - but no National Park blows that idea.  

    What about diving in Guam?

  5. I haven’t dived in Guam but friends like it and it’s very popular as a place to get certified. I would imagine it’s typical of Micronesia and would search ScubaBoard for reports.  I *really* don’t appreciate the topside scene though, with so many tourists from Asia packing the high rise hotels and clamoring for “duty free” shopping.  Sorry to be so down on the northern islands, hopefully others can chime in on the positive aspects.  

  6. I've been to Guam a couple of times in recent years. It's the site of War in the Pacific National Historical Park, which is interesting to visit. You can take a short hike into the jungle to see Japanese guns from WWII used to defend the harbor.

    The SCUBA diving on Guam is great. Not as good as Indonesia or the Philippines, but the reefs are in pretty good shape and the reef fish are abundant. There are several dive operators on the island that take boats out daily.

    Another advantage of Guam is that it's considered a domestic destination so you don't even need a passport. Guam is also relatively easy to get to, with daily nonstops from Hawaii on United Airlines.

    Edited by ridgebackpilot
  7. @phxazcraig

    Re: Saipan, Rota, and Tinian - I've dived all 3 of these northern Marianas islands. In general, if your going to be on any of these islands, it's worth a couple days of diving, but as a destination there are likely better locations relatively close by.

    Saipan - "the Pipe" or Eagle Ray City is a dive worth doing if the conditions are right. On a good day (w/current) there can be 20-40 eagle rays that hang out in the current for your entire dive. Most divers just hold onto a rock to watch this spectacle, however I've heard a couple of folks use reef hooks as an effective anchor here (not sure what the local dive shops are recommending these days). This is still the best place I've dived with 10+ eagle rays consistently.

    The other (somewhat) famous dives are caverns and a few wrecks. These are decent dives (vis. and temperature), but not really destination dives. There is a historically interesting site (Banzai Cliff) where hundreds of Japanese civilians committed suicide by jumping into the ocean instead of surrendering to American troops near the end of WWII. The weather has to be near perfect to dive this site - it is culturally significant to both the islanders and visiting Japanese tourists.

    Rota - famous for the absurd underwater visibility. Seriously, it can feel endless (~250+ ft)  in some locations (there is virtually no particulate in the water here, which has a downside as well - hard coral reefs are healthy, but not necessarily teeming with life). Best dive sites again are caverns and few wrecks.

    Tinian - really a combination of both Rota & Saipan. There's an interesting wall dive, a few caverns, and some interesting reefs. 

    If you want to visit all 3 islands Saipan is worth 2 days of diving, and Rota and Tinian are worth about 1 day each. The flights between the islands are very short (<30 min) but flight schedules might interfere with your diving plans.

    When I visited Saipan, we flew from Narita (the island sits between Japan and Guam). The plane was absolutely full of Japanese newlyweds (like the entire plane, many still in their wedding outfits). In addition to Japanese tourists, there are now more direct flights from S. Korea (same thing, honeymoon destination). 

    If you are interested in the region, I might suggest considering Pohnpei over the Northern Marianas. Pohnpei is culturally interesting (the lost ancient city of Nan Madol is here) and the diving is both more wild and more interesting. Palikir Pass (on an incoming tide) has hundreds of grey reef sharks (they used to dive this where we would literally drift through the wall of sharks to get into the pass). Several of the passes also host dozens of manta rays on incoming tides. The trip to Ant Atoll (off the coast) is worth the trip - untouched reefs, sharks, and someone recently reported they found a pygmy seahorse in one of the sea fans.

    Palau - I've been several times, and will be returning next year w/my son. The Palau Pacific is a nice resort, and Sam's is a great dive operator. The only issue is that the travel time between Sam's and some of the best sites is lengthy (and in a few cases, prohibitive). You will spend 2+ hours/day "commuting" to/from the really good dive sites if you go with Sam's. It's a full day thing - you can do 2-3 dives (getting back late afternoon), or... you choose a liveaboard (like the Siren, the Ocean Hunter, or one of theAggressors) where you will get in 4 dives/day, have very short trips to/from the best dive sites, and generally have more time to relax between dives. They also get in the water at the best sites (like Blue Corner, Big Dropoff, German Channel, Peleliu Wall) before any of the day boats even get out to these sites.

    I've done Palau both ways, and would recommend the liveaboard route to anyone interested in diving the best sites at the best times (and I'm a huge fan of Sam's, including how they operate, their kayaking tours, etc. The distance between their shop and many of the best sites is just lengthy). 

  8. Have you done American Samoa?  I've never been there but there seems to be diving there and you could combine with a trip to Fiji which has great soft coral diving.  Also has a National Park.

     

  9. 10 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    Have you done American Samoa?  I've never been there but there seems to be diving there and you could combine with a trip to Fiji which has great soft coral diving.  Also has a National Park.

     

    Here is the current plan.  I'd doing some of this for my daughter to get to all the US National parks, so American Samoa is definitely on the list.   My guess is that will be a trip involving Hawaii, Samoa and American Samoa, but winter is not the best time to visit.  I planned on going with my daughter next June, but she is working toward some guide job then, so maybe April or May.   This December I will bring my daughter to Roatan for PADI OW training, and in January we'll go to St Thomas to visit the US park there, plus dive.    Emily is currently hiking southbound on the CDT with an expected finish date of Dec 1.

    I've been to Fiji before, on a liveaboard with my late wife.  I'd rather visit Samoa as I've never been there before.

    I will have to get to NMI on my own, I think.   A week there (in whatever island or islands) followed by a week in Palau.

    Once I get to American Samoa and NMI, I will have been to 7 US territories, which these days is a pretty unusual feat.  When I was a teen I was on a military flight across the Pacific that stopped in Midway and Wake islands, as well as Hawaii, Guam, Clark Field (Phillipines), Saigon and finally our destination, Thailand.   As far as I know, Midway and Wake aren't really accessible now.

  10. @phxazcraig

    Wake in not accessible without a military or fish & wildlife special permit (most requests are denied). MIdway is similarly restricted, but is visited (by permit) a few times a year by groups. Midway used to offer weekly trips from HNL for diving and fishing (the lagoon and surrounding reefs have a very healthy shark & fish population). There have been various rumors that this was going to restart, however, has remained w/out tourism since ~2016 (no company has stepped forward to 

    Re: American Samoa - I've been twice. There was no diving available the first time I visited (a couple of big game fishing boats, but no diving operations). The 2nd time we did get to dive. but as I've heard from a few others who have visited recently, it's very hit & miss. 2 diving compressors on the island, often both are down needing repair (or the dive op is making more $ taking people out to fish, or...). Free diving is readily available, and a few of the reefs are in really good shape. Just a note: the tuna processing plants (near the harbor) contribute quite an "aroma" to the entire area (the smell is always present).

     

  11. How about diving in Samoa?  Not American Samoa.

  12. @phxazcraig

    Samoa has a few decent options for diving, and several interesting dive sites. The best diving (from my limited experience) is off the island just to the NW, Savaii (vs. Upolu, the main island). Some very nice hard coral gardens, a large number of turtles, a few sharks... Samoa also has several interesting sites & interesting history, including the tomb of Robert Louis Stevenson, and the story about (both original & current hotels named after) Aggie Grey, one of the most influential women in the history of the South Pacific.

    You can get to Savaii by ferry (from Apia), and Dive Savaii is the dive operator on the island. Diving on Upolu is also decent, although more people, and the reefs aren't in as good shape. 

    Like the Cook Islands, Samoa very much operates on "island time" (unless it's a church schedule). They may say to meet at the dive shop at 9AM, but it's likely they are going to show up between 9:15-9:30 (or later)... Samoa is very laid back.



     

  13. Thanks for the Samoa details.   Any experience in St Thomas?   I'm wondering how to get to the dive shop from where ever I'm staying that week.

  14. @phxazcraig

    Sorry, I stopped diving in the Caribbean 15+ years ago. In general, the average dives in the Pacific are usually better than the best dives in the Caribbean. I know how this comes across, however we realized that we have a choice of where we dive - just need to save up enough money/time to head west instead of east for each dive trip.

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