(1) Good light at each work station is critically important. Something mounted on an adjustable swivelling arm like a good desk lamp. (The worst thing about resort diving, in my view, is that many places you end up staying were designed for honeymooners (or dirty weekenders). There might be a desk or table, but even if there is, there won't be good light to work under.)
(2) If standup workspace (a la Pelagian), in which case a thick rubber mat or equivalent for easy long standing. Not carpeting - something that cleans easily. If sit-down workspace,, then good well designed chairs. In both cases, getting the height of the workspace (and positioning of working light) right is important. Some of us photographers are getting old, and either have back problems or soon will - after shlepping housings and all heavy items in hand carry bags through mile-long airports a few more times.
(3) Something soft and cushiony on work surface that protects against scarring ports etc., and helps insure that housings and other items left on table don't take off if the sea kicks up. Towels work, but what I've found best are... spongey rubbery dinner mats.
The ones I use are made of a spongey plastic mesh. I originally bought in a yacht place for my boat. They designed to keep plates on a table at sea. I can't remembver the brand name, but I've seen them everywhere. They are soft, grip any smooth surface well, keep cameras and the like from flying around, clean easily. (I carry them in the top of my Pelican case, sandwiching all the big o-rings and spares (in plastic bags) between the dinner mats and the pick foam.) Come in choice of colors. Green is a good choice - not to hard on the eyes working for long periods under bright light, and it's easy to find both dark and light colored items dropped or placed on it.
(4) If possible, secure storage (cupboard, etc.) below the work space for unused ports, arm segments, lenses, etc. Helps keep the working surface uncluttered, and better than having to fetch and replace unused ports, lenses, bits and pieces in a small, shared cabins. If you really want to impress me, put a small light inside so I can see what's what instead of having to use my dive light.
(5) I think DavePh may have somewhat overstated the case against airguns. Shop-powered air guns are clearly overkill, but air is good. Medium-powered air can safely be used to blow ALL the water off the outside of a housing, which can be better and faster than drying with fabric or air drying. Low-powered air is useful for blowing particles of dust off lenses etc. I use a can of compressed gas at home, and carry a small can of compressed gas on every trip.
(6) I'm with DavePh all the way on bungie or webbing system to keep things in place when you're not there. I carry my own. If it's bungies, this also means hooks or eyes to attach them to.
(7) I agree with James that a single charging area separate from the individual working areas, with plenty of 110 and 220 power points, is probably best.
Frogfish