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El-Cheapo Strobe

Started by LuckyInk ·

  • 10Posts
  • 10Replies

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El-Cheapo Strobe

10 posts
  1. So, here is what I am thinking....

    I am on a budget and can't afford a nice Sea & Sea YS-25 strobe just yet. I start thinkin' about how I can get my hands on a temporary "Ghetto Strobe".

    I have come up with two options I would like your feedback on.

    The first has been discussed here before with night dives... Using a dive light to help illuminate a subject. Does that help at all with backscatter when using with the internal strobe?

    My second idea for a "Po-Boy Strobe" is this land based Sub-Strobe , coupled with the small, clear Pelican 1010 Case.

    You may now stop laughing...

    I was just curious if this would work. In theory, I don't see why not, and if it doesn't, I am only out a few bucks....

     

    Thanks!

     

    -The guy who uses ducktape to keep his dive bag together

  2. Man, that's a good idea! How deep is the rating on that Pelican case?

     

    Where is the slave sensor on that flash? Use some tinfoil or something like that on you housing to direct the camera's internal flash up to the slave.

     

    Good luck!

    James Wiseman

  3. Thats exactly what I was thinking! Just line the back of the case in foil and hopefully, there will be enough light to trip the sensor. The sensor is on the top of the flash by the way. It is dome shaped looked like it has 360 degrees of input.

    As for the depth rating on the case, I am not sure. The Pelican website says they are crush proof, and water tight. They also have an auto pressure purge valve as well as an O-Ring to help when down under. Anybody have any experience with Pelican Cases underwater???

    -Lucky

  4. Depending on the camera you have, you may have to deal with the preflash problem if you don't use a slave strobe designed for it.

     

    I started with an Ikelite A35. Cost $150 with the tray and arm. I had to make up my own fiber link that transmitted just enought light to trigger on the second and not the first flash. See the first photo in this ancient (7 months old) string http://www.wetpixel.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=77 .

     

    I'll sell you that strobe cheap if you think you can make it work for you.

     

    Herb

  5. Herb,

    That is pretty nifty! What did it take to make your own link? I am guessing you had to buy (beg, borrow, steal) a fiber optic cable for another rig then figure out a way to connect it to your housing?

    I use a similar set up as you (PT-010 and OLY C3020).

     

    Oh yeah.... What kind of deal and how bad of shape is it in??!!

    -Lucky

  6. I bought off-the-shelf optical fibers from a web site I found on Yahoo shopping. It's connected with velcro and parts from a shampoo bottle :) This is one of the 1st fiber optic link in UW digital photography, and predates all the ones currently sold. Because of the preflash, it does take some fiddling to make it work. If you're really interested in buying this thing, send me email at uwphoto@herbko.net .

     

    Herb

  7. Why not a blue water filter? Much cheaper than a strobe and more reliable than the hokey (read embarassing) setups you are considering. How would you connect your pelican to your camera housing anyway?

     

    Now, if only I could rig my bc to function as a closed circuit rebreather...

  8. I'd use the dive light and/or the internal flash and start saving money for a real strobe.

    Ask your buddy to help with his dive light too.

    The internal flash is OK for close up pictures.

    A dive light won't help against backscatter when you are using the internal strobe.

     

    Sabine

  9. Thats what I kinda, figured. I use a lot of macro, so I know that the internal strobe isnt too much of an issue there. And I wasn't too sure if a dive light would help much with backscatter.

    Now I know! Thanks!

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