20D Housing Options (Do you need eTTL2?)

Now that there are a few 20D housing options out there (Ike, Aquatica, Subal, etc.) I am trying to figure out the pros and cons of the options. The one plus for the Ike is the eTTL2 compatibility, but I am not sure how "essential" this is. I had a Ike housing for my G2, but the I ended up not really using the TTL and shot mostly in manual. Has the technology improved since then? I am planning on getting a second strobe as well, so will this make difference in using eTTL2?

As for the other housings, I am not sure how much and why they would be of better quality than the Ike housing. Is aluminum better for some reason? Are the ports available for these housing better optically than the Ike ports? Usability better?

I have read a bunch of threads about the new Ike 20D housing and the results seem to be great, but I haven't seen one that confirms that eTTL2 compatibility is a must have.

I understand that price a big difference in this game, but taking that out of the equation, what are the real pros and cons?

Thanks in advance for sharing your advise and experience.

Hi Jeremy,

I'm shooting the TTL this week. It works, but I do not think it is essential. In fact I am looking forward to getting back to manual. I prefer manual. I have no experience with the 20D, but with other DSLRs I have not felt the need for TTL. So I think it is far from a must have.

You can sample a range of views on whether TTL is necessary in the TTL Anonymous discussion:

http://www.wetpixel.com/PNphpBB2-viewtopic...ic-t-6199.phtml

Jeremy,

While I agree for wide angle shooting eTTL 2 may not be a significant advantage since most dSLR shooters set shutter speed and f-stop manually.

For macro shooting however there is a great advantage to setting a f-stop and then concentrating on composition, allowing the camera and strobe to "talk" and vary light output. You can bias the eTTL2 exposure up and down in 1/2 stop increments, too.

I tested the eTTL for the Canon Digital Rebel in Ikelite's housing (see link below) and if you notice the Ikelite Canon EOS 20D housing is now only offered with this feature.

You also get manual strobe output control right from the housing back. No need to reach up and adjust power on the strobe head. This only works on Ikelite DS50 and DS125 flash units but if you're getting an Ikelite housing I don't know why you'd want any other strobes

For the price Ikelite has the best features plus the comfort of seeing your camera is dry and OK.

Hope this helps!

David Haas

Haas Photography Inc.

4596 Greenlawn Drive

Stow OH 44224

330-678-0591 Phone/Fax

330-329-5981 cell

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

Ikelite equipment test images at:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_ettl.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haasdrebel.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_g6.html

Additional sample image galleries at:

http://www.pbase.com/dhaas

Dave, remember - you're supposed to say something about being an Ikelite dealer, right?

Besides that though, I agree, all else being equal, if you have the choice between a housing with TTL and one that doesn't have it, I'd choose the TTL every time. I love TTL for macro.

The problem is that all things are NOT equal - as all housings are different and different brands will appeal to diff'rnt folks.

Cheesr

James

Jeremy,

As James points out yes, I'm an Ikelite dealer AND user Didn't know I need to mention it in every post

Jeremy, comparing housings you'll find numerous discussions on Wetpixel as this is a little bit like buying any product. Some underwater photographers want specific features while others want something else.

Yes, I'm biased towards Ikelite products. The same o-rings, control shafts, etc. are on all housings out there. Only thing different is some ergonomics (personal likes and dislikes) and housing material. Some will debate ports but I've jumped into that fray also if you search the forums.

You can also search about housings and will see lots of pros and cons for housing material choices. I've defended plastic as very cost effective, corrosion resistant (as in none....) and currently Ikelite has the only working eTTL and eTTL2 housing out there. With their strobes of course....

Whether you choose to use the eTTL 2 is up to you, but consider with the Ikelite 20D housing you also have a fantastic simply adjustable MANUAL FLASH OUTPUT CONTROL right on the housing back.....I tested and used the first small Ikelite SLR-DC housing all manually for several months. To me having this control right on the back whether in MANUAL or eTTL is a benefit in my opinion.

Hope it's clear I'm a dealer, too !

David Haas

Haas Photography Inc.

4596 Greenlawn Drive

Stow OH 44224

330-678-0591 Phone/Fax

330-329-5981 cell

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

Sample Image Galleries at:

http://www.pbase.com/dhaas

Ikelite equipment test images at:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_ettl.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haasdrebel.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_g6.html

David,

IMO an exposure series can demonstrate if/how E-TTL conversion works.

IMO hard to advertise this feature with "normal" shots with cut off EXIF data.

Julian

How works the E-TTL with two strobes? Can you set the light output level for each of the strobes?

Julian,

Since the idea of any TTL system is to automatically have the strobe output enough light for the best overall average exposure at the moment the shutter is clicked, it's pretty hard to show eTTL at varying levels unless you purposely adjust the + / - controls to create a darker or lighter overall exposure. Unless you're outside the maximum strobe power at a particular ISO and/or f-stop the strobe will keep adjusting flash output.

My eTTL photos on the Ikelite link show by simply setting an f-stop within the strobe's power range you can compose and usually get decent exposures. Example - at ISO 100 and f11 the strobe will automatically adjust its output between 1 foot to maybe 2 feet. A guide chart is furnished with the Ikelite DS125 and DS50 strobes showing these automatic ranges at specific f-stops and ISO. So anywhere within a specified RANGE at a specified F-STOP at a specified ISO the eTTL or eTTL2 will try to attain a correct exposure.

Petr -

Connecting 2 strobes via a dual cord will result in both strobes being controlled by the eTTL or eTTL2 connection. Although one cord is usally marked with a colored shrink wrap, and should be considered your primary or "key" light. The only way to adjust only one strobe from the other is to put one on TTL (via the switch on the strobe head) and set the other strobe manually to 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 or full power. You could also put an EV controller in line with your secondary light and control that strobe's output in 10 steps.

Hope this information helps!

David Haas

Haas Photography Inc.

4596 Greenlawn Drive

Stow OH 44224

330-678-0591 Phone/Fax

330-329-5981 cell

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

Sample Image Galleries at:

http://www.pbase.com/dhaas

Ikelite Underwater Systems Dealer

Ikelite equipment test images at:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_ettl.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haasdrebel.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_g6.html

David:

That is the point of the experiment. Set up an indoor shot, and show (with EXIF) data that at any combination of fstop and shutter you get the same exposure. This is a good way to figure out when you will run out of oomph from the strobes as well. You can do this in the pool as well, but you need to be careful of the background reflectivity. In the studio, this is pretty easy.

Bill

Jeremy: The best thing to do is to see if you can find some folks with different types of housings to play with. A lot depends on what you think you need and what you like the feel of. Also think about service and repair. I personally have a Subal housing for the 10D based on a previous Sea and Sea which I just didn't like the feel of. As for Ikelite, you won't find better service than from them (if you are in the U.S.) but some people don't like the aesthetics of their systems. One important point is that there is not (as far as I know) a series of port extenders that are used by most other manufacturers and something that I think Ike is missing.

Bill

Jeremy: The best thing to do is to see if you can find some folks with different types of housings to play with. A lot depends on what you think you need and what you like the feel of. Also think about service and repair. I personally have a Subal housing for the 10D based on a previous Sea and Sea which I just didn't like the feel of. As for Ikelite, you won't find better service than from them (if you are in the U.S.) but some people don't like the aesthetics of their systems. One important point is that there is not (as far as I know) a series of port extenders that are used by most other manufacturers and something that I think Ike is missing.

Bill

Bill,

You are correct you can set up a camera/flash in controlled settings on the surface and see how well any TTL system adjusts light output while varying f-stop. Although anayzing these details to death I don't think is as valuable as getting in the water, looking at a strobe guide's TTL ranges and shooting photos I leave the development to the manufacturer and spend my time learning how to use a new gizmo

By simply checking the LCD after a shot I'm pretty comfortable if I have a decent exposure. You have to be careful how bright you have your review screen set, though. Some shooters live and die by the histogram, and depending on your camera's review screen size that might be a good thing. I don't.....But I may start using it a bit after recent reading.

My real world scenario is to know what ranges your particular camera eTTL system works well in, then set a f-stop and get in there and shoot....With digital there is some truth in volume....And I've always said I should invent a course on editing.....A better use of your time after acquiring halfway decent files to post process......

YMMV

David Haas

Haas Photography Inc.

4596 Greenlawn Drive

Stow OH 44224

330-678-0591 Phone/Fax

330-329-5981 cell

davidhaas@sbcglobal.net

Sample Image Galleries at:

http://www.pbase.com/dhaas

Ikelite Underwater Systems Dealer

Ikelite equipment test images at:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_ettl.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haasdrebel.html

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/triv_haas_g6.html

David,

I think this could show the benefits of the system. I don’t talk about strobe distance reach underwater or how to use such a tool, just what the tool delivers.

Although anayzing these details to death I don't think is as valuable as getting in the water, ....

If I would be interested in that housing/system I would be interested in such a simple demonstration (which is easily done) as well. That would be a much more reasonable advertising to me. 8)

How/if/when one is going to use it is up to the user finally of course.

Just my 2 cents on your recommendations as a dealer.

Julian

David:

My problem is that most E-ttl systems break down sooner rather than later and several that I have played with didn't work at all. 20 minutes with a flower in the lab/studio and you know what the thing can do. I am all for shooting in the water, but I don't want to trust my only chance at a Stargazer to e-ttl that I am not confident will work.

Bill

Thanks to you all for your input. Since I had a Ike housing for my G2, I am comfortable with the feel of the housing and aesthetics don't take good pictures.

I don't think anyone disagrees with the quality of service from Ike. I'll give it some time for some of the other housing to make their way into people's hands and I see some reviews.

Thanks again. I can always count on straight forward advise from this forum.