Going with SeaLife DC310 to start out and learn, have ?'s...

Well, for now, since I dont have a lot of money to invest, and I am just starting off, I think I am going to go with the SeaLife DC310 with the external strobe. I want to just learn the basics right now and save some money while I do it, then when I got it down, invest in something more.

What do you guys know about the strobe (I have been reading and learning a bit). This strobe basically goes off the flash of the camera correct? What I am wondering is what are the settings that are on the strobe that you have to set. I cant find any info anywhere and I am thinking this is standard adjustments on strobes. Can anyone help this newbie out. Cant wait till October!!!!!

Hi,

I haven't used the camera personally, but I'm betting you can get some of this information from the manufacturers website, right?

The strobe will hopefully have a couple of power settings.

Cheers

James

James,

I checked on there, but what I was really wanting is what you are talking about. Power Settings, what are these settings and what do they do. I am REALLY new to this so I am just trying to soak up as much info as possible. I cant find any info really on what settings strobes come with, I know what their purpose is, but what do I need to adjust on them and why? Thanks for helping also

Oh Bob? :-) All joking aside, look for some of Bobf's posts here. He explains strobes and setting strobe power VERY well.

Cheers

James

lardo5150

Welcome to Wetpixel and underwater photography.

I used a DC250 up until a year ago when I upgraded. The strobe is the same as you would have on the DC310. Basically the strobe is a slave strope that fires when it detects the camera flash firing. The external strobe for this camera is really basic. Three settings...an on, an off and a test. There are no other settings to deal with. Problem with no power settings is that you get all or nothing in regards to strobe intensity. It has a tendency of overexposing shots due to dumping too much light on the target. I believe the 310 has some upgrades to previous models that lets you adjust the EV (light sensitivity) in the camera. That may help some when shooting light colored fish or closeups with a sand background. At any rate, take a lot of pictures and get as close as possible. The more pictures you take...the better the results will be.

And did I mention, get close ?

Thanks so much for the info, learning more and more everday. So, I take it with this camer to get any good shots I ahve to be super close. And by close do you mean a foot, 2 feet, a couple yards? What accessory can I get to mabey give me some more distance, and does not have to be super distance, but mabey a couple of feet.

The SeaLife DC 310 kit includes the SL 960 external strobe. When I was compiling data for the Strobe Finder, Sea Life did not return emails that I sent requesting information. The only information I have on the strobe is that it requires 4 AA batteries. The Sea Life web site is also vague regarding specifics on the digital camera.

All strobes are limited by their maximum intensity. This intensity varies by model. The brightest underwater strobes cannot penetrate water beyond 5-6 feet.

Because the brightest setting would likely overexpose a close (macro) subject, it is important to be able to control the strobe's light output. Strobe intensity may be controlled in various ways. Time allowed to stay on (manual power settings, some form of TTL metering, or auto strobe control), distance from strobe to subject(Every foot of distance underwater from strobe to subject decreases the light intensity by half. For every foot closer, the strobe's influence is increased by double), aperture setting on camera (size of lens opening), or sensitivity setting (ISO,ASA) of light capturing device (film or sensor). If you notice, shutter speed plays little role in strobe influence as long as you stay within the sync speed of the camera. Sync speed varies depending on camera.

If we could accept for a moment that we are discussing "acceptable" visibility ranges, we could assume that light penetration underwater is somewhat predictable. We could even go so far as to express a formula that could predict the amount of light necessary to "properly" illuminate an underwater composition. The formula, which is an equation, looks as follows:

A=GN/D

Aperture (f/stop) set on you camera's lens should be equal to the power of the strobe (listed as a Guide Number) divided by the Distance from strobe to subject. Typically the Guide Number listing for the strobe would be set at a sensitivity of ISO 100. Because it is an equation, the formula may be written several ways. If we were interested in determining the distance we should be from strobe to subject, we could write the equation as such:

D = GN/A

Without important information such as the Guide Number listing for the SL 960 at ISO 100, or if the Sea Life digital camera allows for manual settings for Aperture, it is impossible to discuss foreground exposure much beyond stating that if you are blowing out your images, get further back......

That sounds cool, so basically with this type of setup it is going to be trial and error, I can handle that. Will help me get a basic grasp on things. Thanks for the help everyone.

lardo 5150

The trial and error part is the big advantage of digital. You can see the results instantly. Sealife makes a little 3x macro cap that snaps on and off the lens of the housing. You might want to get that if it isn't in your kit.

The manual that comes with the camera gives some useful beginner information as far as distance to subject with and without the macro cap.

Keep in mind the actual and perceived distance underwater are two different things.

Good luck.

I own, use and will enjoy this camera till I have enough dough to house the Canon 20D I just bought, you may e-mail me at meverhard@msn.com for comments, questions, and I also check this board often. I am maxing out the accessories on this camera, it is a good start, as it is about a grand full tilt versus the 6-7 grand I am investing in the 20D.