Using Nikonos 105sb with Subal D10

Hi everyone !

I sould be getting a Subal D10 in the next few weeks and I would like to know if anyone have use before this camera with the Nikonos 105sb ?

Thanks

David

Hi,

As long as you tell your dealer that you are using these flashes (so that he can make sure that only three wires are connected to the strobe) they will work fine in manual mode. You can also add a few power settings by using the difuser, I believe the SB-105 has three power settings, full, 1/2 and 1/4, correct? So, you will have those plus the same 3 settings with difuser for a total of 6.

There is also the old trick from the flash bulb days - move the flash. Varying the strobe to subject distance either by re-arranging your strobe arms (esp. those with a couple of ball joints within their length) or when hand-holding (e.g., using a strobe handle) move the strobe closer or farther away by hand.

Recall too that N-V stobes were backwards compatible to N-III. Either have an N-III socket installed (if available?) or block the contacts on the camera shoe connector if needed. Steven Frink shows you how on his Seacam site, it should be similar for Subals. One can also cut the leads. You may want to do iTTL some day and then you will need an N-V socket so you may not want to make too drastic a modification.

Tom

The SB-105 does have three power settings (6 including the diffuser), but they are FULL, 1/4 and 1/16, so they aren't as sequential as one might like...

Tom's suggestion of moving the flash could overcome this limitation in some circumstances.

Such as when you have the strobe already in your grip! Then it might be easier to adjust distance than switching the strobe setting while you are focusing on a moving fish. For example you could have the aperture set for a 2 foot strobe-subject distance. One would move the strobe back and forth to maintain this distance while, possibly also adjusting for the 'bellows factor' depending on just how close you get (sort of like Kentucky windage), and while tracking and focusing your subject! TTL is a bit more handy for this sort of shooting!

Tom

No problem. I used my D10 with an SB105 and an Inon 220 - mixing them both between master and slave.

You do need to check that, as Rocha, said you are only using three wired pins on the housing. But this is easy to check and, if necessary, change. My D10 arrived with one side wired for 5-pin and I had that usual post-arrival Oh-God-it-doesn't-work-right sweaty panic - before an email to the supplier (Seaoptics) told me what to do. A couple of minutes with a small screwdriver and it was done.

If you connect the strobe and it doesn't fire, suspect the 5-pin problem and switch it to 3-pins.