Not sure where to post this (Dry suit related)

I've just switched from my old N90s film cam to a Fuji S2. I'm using an Ike Al- back housing and keeping my SS200's. I'm used to my old Ike N90s housing that was close to neutral U/W but the Fuji+housing and strobes is REALLY negative. I am constantly being inverted by the camera when diving in a dry-suit. I really think I'm going to need a set of ankle weights to off-set the camera weight. Anyone else have this problem ?

Dave, I can't remember if you're diving BP/W or a jacket.

Generally I only use BP/W for deco obligation, and I've had to switch to an Aluminum plate and a weight belt to keep trim reasonable when hand carrying a big camera. But, I use E7-100's for doubles, which could contribute a bit. I think my plate was $45 or so from FredT.

For NDL diving, I use a jacket, even over the drysuit. I'm using a SeaQuest Pro QD with a E7-80, weight is half in the pockets and half in a belt. I've had no issues with this, even with this retro-Ansel Adams phase I've been going through, carting around an old Aquatica A3 loaded with Plus-X and a tripod (very heavy).

FWIW, I don't have a cave cut (might help, though), and keep the suit sucked pretty tight.

All the best, James

Hi Dave,

Go to the Galley and check out the thread about diving dry and shooting Macro - there is a huge thread there. I had the same problem w/ my Seacam housing.

Cheers

James

Is it to do with the flashguns you use? When I swapped from SP104s to Subtronics I found I had to attach some high-density-foam floats to get the balance right. Then I got a Nexus housing to go alongside the Sea & Sea that I was using and found I needed to attach a 1kg weight to that to counteract the dome port.

Now with Subal (Fuji S2 Pro) big dome and Subtronics I have discarded the weight but still need the floats.

As someone who only very rarely uses a wetsuit (Its got to be very hot...) I usually wear a drysuit and I always use ankle weights for trim - but this does depend on how you use your drysuit. I tend to use lots of underclothing, a substantial amount of lead and wear a jacket as back-up and for surface buoyancy only - I never use it for buoyancy control otherwise. On a dive this moring I found a 4lb weight which I stuffed into my jacket pocket with little effect except that I was a smidge warmer afterwards! My housing is slightly negative at the moment but with I can't say that it bothers me. I'd certainly try some ankle weights (mine weigh ~1lb each I think) and see if this helps before adding bits and pieces to the camera. Hi density foam may be another solution but it can be difficult to get hold of and I've found very few people to use it successfully.

Hello,

I use an S2 and alluminum-back Ike housing with (2) DS-125 stobes. The rig was extremely negative too. To solve the problem, I had to remove the lead weight which is in the base of the ike housing (easily removed). This was much better but still a little too negative. The rig is now almost perfect after I added a set of ulcs buoyancy arms. Hope this helps.

John

Thanks for all the ideas !! I probably didn't make it clear in the original post, but I've been diving a drysuit for years (sans camera). I have my buoyancy dialed down perfectly, but as soon as I added my Ike housed Fuji last year, I'm having problems trying to prone out for a macro shot or even keep from slowly rotating down at a safety stop, holding on to the anchor chain, because the camera is tugging me over. The foam on the strobes sounds like a good idea to try to get the rig back to neutral ( I pulled the lead off the housing after my first dive). I'm using the standard ULCS arm's, I didn't know they made a bouyant version, I only knew about Ike's. I'm diving an Oceanic Chute 3 with 2-4# weights in the back/non-ditchable pockets, a 13CU pony slung on the left D Rings, 7# in my left hip pocket, 12# on my right, in an old school DUI TLS 350 (no rock boots), thick fleece U/Ware. No-camera-no problem; but add in the camera and I'm head over heels. In my mind, it's a counter rotation problem. I'm dialed to neutral, so the extra lb or 2 is pulling me over. Is it better to try to get the rig back as close to neutral as I can get it ,or just deal with it and ditch a couple of #'s off my back and put them on my ankles?

Sounds like the easiest option is to try ankle weights - although there has been some resistance to using them from some purists, they work for me.

It would be interesting to figure out what underwater weight of a housing starts to cause buoyancy problems. My own system is a little negative but nothing that bothers me much.

I use a flexible (rubber) suit which does tend to allow air to migrate somewhat and without ankle weights I used to invert with relative ease. My ankle weights weigh only about a lb each and if I remember correctly about moments and forces, etc, in theory shouldn't lightish weights on the end of your legs counteract the rotational force produced by a not too heavy camera at face distance? (its a long time ago).

Have you tried a weight belt? Perhaps a couple pounds "heavy".

I'm probabally the minority here... I prefer a housing that's a couple of pounds negative. For WA I can handhold at slower shutter speeds, and when I put the housing on the bottom, it stays put.

All the best, James