Single Strobe Position

I have a new Ikelite housing for my D70. I recently added a DS125 strobe. What is the best position for the strobe? I'm using the 18-70 zoom lens that came with the D70 outfit. I'm thinking the arm extended all the way out at a 45 degree angle and the strobe facing the same direction as the lens. That is not pointing at the same point as the lens but the same direction. Am I thinking correctly? Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Hi Mo,

If you're using a single strobe, I'd try to make it act like a mini-underwater sun.

Above water, the best (or most dramatic) pix are when the sun is setting or rising, meaning the light comes in from the side.

Like this:

If you want a natural "sunlit" shot then position your strobe above the subject.

Pointing the strobe straight at the subject will result in a flat looking photo because there will be no shadow depth. Also, you get more backscatter that way. Either point it in from the side, or move it back and point it outward, so that the edge of the light beam hits teh subject. I used to positon my strobe up and to the left of my camera, but I have started moving it out forward more now. YMMV.

Cheers

James

Hi Mo

My advice for you to begin with is to place the flash about 15cm directly above the housing. Keep the front of the flash behind the port and point the flash up slightly at about a 30 degree angle.

Being behind the port will not spook a subject (any more than the port would) The upward angle will illuminate the subject with the lower edge of the flash beam which you will find is the cleanest light which a strobe emits. The difference in exposure between the centre of the beam and the edge is between 1 and 2 stops so keep your eye on the histogram.

The central position will minimise shadows and has a 'wrap around' effect. The lighting can be flat depending on the orientation and position, shape of the subject but flat does not (in my opinion) been the result is inferior. The point of this baseline position is one that you can always return to if your lighting has a bad day. Try all the positions you can think of but the above is a catch all safe and reliable starting point.

Martin Edge

www.edgeunderwaterphotography.com

technically ... you should be aiming at a subject 3 - 4 feet away for wide angle. in all the courses I have read / taught the school method is to have the strobe slightly above the housing and to the side as far as it will go (eliminating back scatter and above for natural look) and then aim it to cross the lens view about 3 - 4 feet away.

This can roughly be done by turning the housing to face yourself and the have it at full arms distance away (doing it on land is heavy and it always should be checked and adjusted in the water anyway so wait until your in) at arms legnth (about 3+ feet) line your gaze to be looking directly at down the lens ... then move your eyes and see if the strobe is facing you too .. if it is bingo .. you are lighting good. (i think we used to charge $150 for that bit of information)

anyway .. that is the old school teaching method .. James pointed out some great land side effects that you can create with your strobe underwater to create a more dramatic shot ... but if you have one strobe .. and you are shooting wide angle .. unless being creative .. make sure the strobe is aimed at the subject the main subject which should be 3 - 4 feet away -- or if lighting a large full frame scene make it point to the center of the frame for full frame lighting ... the further away the strobe the less backscatter.

simple see !

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I leave for Costa Rica on Saturday and will be spending evenings this week at the shop pool practicing. It's quite a change from my Sea & Sea Motormarine II, but I think I'm going to enjoy this setup.

Even with Fisheye you can have decent shots with only one strobe:

Here was the strobe about 40cm above the camera, pointed straight ahead.

All points made are valid. However, it is subject and shooting specific as to where to place a strobe. The old way that DW describes is the 'perfect package' method shooting and rarely do you get that. James shows a pic where top lighting works, especially because the garibaldi is making a turn. But the way you position your strobes is not "one way" but situation specific. If you are shooting CFWA, 3-4 feet us not the rule. More like 1 foot and either to the left, right or top depending on the subject's geometry. It is mostly common sense as to where you place the strobe. For example, when shooting a nudibrance, don't place yoiur single strobe to the left or right of the subject because you will cast a shadow. Shoot downward and even possibly "slightly" to the above-left or above-right to give depth to the image by not lighting the image to give a flat look.

With digi, try a few different angles to see what works for you.

Joe

g'day,

any1 tried using 1 strobe and a reflector on a second strobe arm for macro stuff?

just a thought...

paul.

There was an article on just this technique (reflector on arm) in a recent issue of UWP mag.

I just have read this topic... how have i miss it all the time.

James & Martin have open my eyes and now I really beginn tho get it.

It is exactly whant i have try to find for info.

One Strobe with a 16mm lens to use with the available light and to create more dramatic effects and more contrasts.

Last day I was speeking with Julian (Jolly) and then I have thinking that my subects are always freedivers and always they have more or less the same position

This photos are showing where i need more light

What I like to do is just using one strobe to help the available light and have more contrast on my photos

From what i have read on this topic this is posible with just one strobe. I just have to learn to find the perfect position of the arms

2 8" arms must be enough for this....

Am I on the right path?

So the subjects that are more far away that 1 meter need a stronger strobe?

I try to get it guys.

I dont remember how far a subject is if it is fill the frame of a nikon with a 16mm and 10,5mm lens but I think something about 1- 3 meters

From what i have read in this forum is that you need a arm that is ca 50cm long (All the arm with all parts) for one Strobe use in WA

BTW James .. the photo on this topic is fantastic.:!!!!!

I love the shadow contrast and that the strobe not light all the frame...

The colors are great. the eyecontact perfect...

Very Very artistic photo....

So if you have a powerfull strobe , like 250 watt, can you iluminate a subject that is 3 meters away? Thats mean that the light must travel 6 meters..

James know why I ask :-) I am looking to for a one strobe solution that is powerfull and wide to work with the 10,5 & 16mm lens and van light subject untill 3 meters away...