I have just jumped into the digital realm from film. Can someone give me some basic settings with my D70s with Ike DS125 Strobe for Macro stuff. Can I start with my film settings or is Digital drastically different?
Cheers
Chuck
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I have just jumped into the digital realm from film. Can someone give me some basic settings with my D70s with Ike DS125 Strobe for Macro stuff. Can I start with my film settings or is Digital drastically different?
Cheers
Chuck
settings wise, no real difference between digital and film
The biggest difference is that all of your lenses change angle of view. your wides aren't nearly as wide as they used to be.
He done there a great work.
I wonder why he is recomending ISO 400. You should allways start with the lowest ISO setting which on the D70 is 200.
Re" I wonder why he is recomending ISO 400. You should allways start with the lowest ISO setting which on the D70 is 200.'
See detail notes here.
http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gall...s_d70_notes.htm
Specifically, from the notes,
"ISO - 400 - I started at ISO 200, the minimum for the D70 which ranges from 200 to 1600, to keep noise to a minimum. But according to Thom Hogan;
"ISO 400 is actually quite close to 200 in quality, so don't be afraid to use it. Normally you don't want to give up any image quality at all, but the very slight increase in noise at ISO 400 isn't worth agonizing over: if it allows you to capture what you need to, use it!"
So for me, wanting to use f 8.0 to f 11:0 for a greater depth of field, ISO 400 gets me the exposure I need."
Also see ISO data here.
http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gall...ettings_iso.htm
Actually, the question being specifically about macro shots, ISO 200 is definitely OK with a DS125, which delivers a lot of punch.
Since most of the time you don't expose for the background, you should get pretty good results at say F22 or smaller, even with 1/2 power on your strobe (depending on where you place it, of course).
Even if you want to expose properly for the background, you'd have to dial down to say F8 or F11, in which case you'd probably have to use 1/8 power on the strobe possibly with a diffuser on...
Cheers,
Mat
Hi all.
In macro,especially in extreme macro, the idea is to get the most out of your lens, sharpness and depth of field so there should really be no compromise on the DOF which is mainly obtained by high Fstop (ie f22 or even f32). In film this always required Full power of your strobe at close range (given ASA 50)- in digital since ASA is about 200 then you must decrease the power outputmore by more or less one- two stops. this would give you a combiantion of: f22 @ 1/4-1/2 power.
Now, what can you do with all that left over power on your strobe? take advantage of the increased benefits of another f-stop and increase to f32 (if your lens can). Then you end up at f32@ 1/2- full power. If you want to light up a little back ground aim the strobe past your subject to illuminate it....but remember that if you want to show backgeound lit by natural light only it is subject to Speed bracketing only....the only way that you will be able to see it, manipulate it etc is to bracket your speed- so that f22 @ 1/4 power does NOT have to be taken at 125th....
Experiment....
mauricio Handler
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