Michael

Sold, thank you

i also saw this one on Facebook. The price is fair i guess but it's in Mexiko and too far away. Plus import tax it is not as interesting as it was on first glance. But thanks for posting it and trying to help!

For Sale is a Nauticam SMC-1 Macro lens. Works with Nikon 105 and also Nikon 60 mm. Rarely used (see pictures), glass flawless. Asking 395 Euro, sale preferred in Europe to avoid taxes (for you) and too high shipping costs. Shipping in Germany is included, will ship worldwide on buyers expense.

As you may have seen: my kit was stolen in Albania in mid October. Now i need a new housing. If anyone is willing to sell his Nauticam NA-D850 housing (should be in a nice condition if possible) - i'm open for offers. Cheers, Michael

Dear all, yesterday someone stole my camerabag out of my rental car with following items (look out if they are for sale and check serial numbers): Body D850 SN 6067938 Nauticam NA-D850 SN A417629 Nauticam 45° Viewfinder SN A426434 ZEN DP 100 Port Nikkor AF-S 60 mm SN 2269951 Nikon Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G AF-S Serial: 62115958 AF-S Fisheye NIKKOR 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5E EDSerial: 203850 AF-S Nikon 105 UW Technics HSS/TTL Converter and some more smaller items. Cheers, Michael

Thanks Tim for organizing! And i want to add something to the topic: "Make your own": I broke already a few meters (even of the 613 core) due my strobe arms and clamps being pretty tight when i move them around and sometimes the relatively thin cable (with its 2-2.2 mm outside diameter) gets in between the arm and the clamp and gets kind of crashed. First i tried to fix the routing of the cable with velcro straps to the arm but that didn't really work. Last thing i'm testing at present is: cover the cable with something so that the outer diameter is larger and the chance to get in between the small gap of the arm and the clamp is kind of impossible. What did i use: i had plenty of paracord left from my Lanyard DIY projects. So i removed the inner part and used the outer part as sleeve for the cable. It is a bit loose but works by now. I know, not everybody may have this issue but maybe it's an useful idea for someone. Just cut the Paracord about the same length as the strobe cable is, heat the ends and install the connectors. A drop of superglue will fix the paracord on the connector (and can also be removed without destroying the connector).

I also made some - which work fine for me and my way: There are two styles to handle the camera: handing it into a boat or carrying it a more or less longer way to the shore. Also it's not easy to attach boltsnaps to the seacam strobe arms. So i made some smaller modifications: Between the clamps a made a kind of hooks (seacam sells them but you can built them by your own with a pair of pliers and some 1.5 mm stainless stell wire) where a small lanyard can be attachted. This is good as handle but wouldn't recommend to use this to hand it in a boat. For that i have a pretty long lanyard to attach to the housing. It's as long that it reaches up to the small lanyard which fixes the strobearms (i also fix the strobe with a bungee to the arm). Then it is really easy to handle the camera even if the boat group is a bit harsh with the handling. During the dive i put both lanyards on an D-ring (i dive a wing, so they go in the waist D-Ring). The second one i use is when i have to walk quite a few meters to the shore (like in the Netherlands when walking over a dyke to get into the water). It's sometimes pretty exhausting carrying the camera and the dryuit with weights over the dyke. So i made a smaller lanyard which can be attached to the right housing and the other end will be clipped to the right shoulder D-ring. So the weight of the camera goes onto the jacket and it is pretty easy to walk even a few hundred meters with it.

I'm also in for 12 m.

Nice written! Also it helps if the model has a colourful suit instead of the usual black (there are special "photosuits" from Mares and others to wear over the wetsuit) and most of the time it's nicer to have the Model not facing frontal but more "angled" (and with a bright torch) or back in the image as silhouette. It also helps to show the model the image after a few attempts- a good model will know what to do better. Works only if the currents are not to strong though. Work the image - an also necessary sign is: repeat...

i just saw that Macar0n also fancies 4-6 m. But that is not enough to get a bulk order yet. Too bad that i-fibreoptics charge 150$ for shipping... (plus tax it doesn't make sense...). Maybe too many people don't want to save money on DIY-cables und prefer to buy them from the shelf. I really don't know why we don't find them in Europe. I've been searching every few weeks but with no luck.

Hi Tim, unfortunately i gave away too much to my friends, so after i cut some to short i need some more... If it's going to happen that we get a bulk order together, you can count me in for another 12 m. Or does somebody have a few meters of the 613 left? I would need 5 m as soon as i can get my hands on...

Danke 🙂 so you need really low power on the strobe then i guess?

Great images! Can you tell me about the hairy frogfish: is it with coloured torch and snoot on the Retra oder just torches or just strobes?

Hi, i just got my hands on an unused pair of Z330s Type 1 for a "ok" price. I wonder if it is possible to change to front to the newer fly eye lens? Did anybody do it and does anybody know where i can get the spare parts? Cheers, Michael

Hey Gerard! Nice to see you switched over, too 🙂