Skip to content

TimG

Super Moderators

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United Kingdom
View Profile Find content

Posts posted by TimG

    34 minutes ago, Chris Ross said:

    One of the claimed advantages of the MFO3 is that is corrects for the distortion and abberations caused by the flat port, these abberations are more of a concern for shorter focal lengths/wider fields like you get with a bare 60mm lens. So it should be sharper than a bare 60mm. The MFO3 is fairly hefty however the in-water weight is quite low and it balances quite well in use.

    Chris, you’re using it on an M43 system with the Zuiko 60mm, right?

    Yep, dust spots on the sensor.

    As Chip suggests, photograph a white wall with the lens out of focus. They’ll show up clearly.

    Good luck with the sensor clean. I found it a bit nerve-racking first time I had to do it. It can take 2-3 attempts. Steady patience and a clean swab for each attempt. There are cleaning swabs available for specific sensor sizes. 1-2 drops of sensor cleaner on the swab then gentle left to right motion across the sensor. I can recommend PecPads as the covering for the swab.

    • Thanks 1

    Hi Sean

    I’m in a similar position. I’ve got the 8mm and 60mm M43 lenses. I moved to them from an APSC system using a 10-17FE and a 60mm or 105mm.

    With my old system I was never convinced by the kind of mid-zoom. Neither fish nor fowl. In addition, I’ve always been convinced that it makes better sense to dive with one format in mind: WA or Macro. This makes kit choosing relatively simple and, for me, helps me focus on appropriate subjects.

    I’ve just finished my first dive trip with my new system. I thought it very good. But I did wonder about something a bit wider than the 60mm. Not come to any conclusions yet! Maybe something in the M43 30mm range?

    I had a couple of options with the APSC. But it was rare that anything other than the 10-17 or the 60 came out of the cupboard. Food for thought.

    • Like 1

    There’s been loads of posts on this issue. Definitely worth a search.

    Some options;

    • 50/50 solution white vinegar and water

    • Coke

    • Mothers windscreen cleaner

    • Brasso

    • Cerium Oxide powder (as Dave suggests)

    Good luck with them. My own experience is that once the film has been on for a while it’s extremely difficult to shift it. Re-glassing has been my experience.

    With new ports now, I follow the Chris Ross routine: good soak and do not let the ports (and viewfinder optics) air dry. Wipe them dry with microfibre cloth as they come out the rinse tank.

    3 hours ago, OneYellowTang said:

    There are several collapsable rinse buckets you can get (that can double as containers for your camera rig in small boats). No issues traveling with one of these.

    I always travel with a (now) Kraken (was Cinebags) Grouper XL as a portable rinse tank. During the journey it carries lots of my gear in the cabin. A bit pricey but they are excellent travel bags and rinse tanks.

    • Like 2

    Definitely wide-angle for the day dives. I’ve pretty much given up on daytime macro in the R/S. Macro makes good sense though for the night dives and, yep, not something too demanding in terms of “finding “ the subject in the viewfinder. So 60mm on FF.

    As CCRphoto says, it’ll be starting to get a bit nippy. Wrap up warm, Mike 😜

    • Like 1

    1 hour ago, Christian K said:

    You might want the bigger dome with a wide rectilinear like the 16-35, unless only the center of the image needs to be sharp, which tbh in many cases is usable. Nauticam recommends the 230 mm glass-dome.

    UWPAGE.png

    Yeah, that was my thinking too. My experience with 16-35 rectilinear lenses (in my case the Nikkor 16-35), is that a 230 domeport is pretty much essential unless you are happy with squishy sides and corners. Even then and stopped down to say, f11, perfection is not guaranteed.

    You can avoid the problem of course by having non-important edges - blue water for example- where blurring has no impact. But once you start shooting reefs, the edges do tend to show up and is, in my view, one of the drawbacks of FF sensors. (But I think we have sailed around this buoy often enough)

    • Like 2

    Hi Mike

    Some excellent learning points!

    Yep, group dives are pretty hopeless for taking "good" pics. If you go back to Indonesia and you want to photo macro, I'd recommend the Lembeh Straits. Not only amazing (weird!) diving, buy most operations run a two guests-to-one dive guide system. So spending time taking images is relatively easy. And yes, you definitely need a guide but, believe me, that's good!

    Wide-angle shots with a group is, errr, challenging to get all the flailing, inelegant legs out the way. Take a buddy (preferably with good legs) and a guide.

    Sounds as though the Salted housing buttons may have been subject to the water pressure at 30m and just kissing the camera buttons sufficiently to cause unexcited activations. Expensive though they are, that's one reason why the aluminium housings (Subal, Nauticam, Isotta etc) are so good. And so expensive! Yes, by and large, you get what you pay for.

    Sounds as though you had fun though - which is a large part of what its about......

    • Like 2

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications
Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.