Posts posted by TimG
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I'm sure folks will come up with intermediate steps suggestions.
My only thought is that an intermediate step is exactly that. It doesn't stop the hankering or aim to go the whole nine yards and get that Z8 system. And then you have a mainly redundant intermediate step which could be hard to sell.
Unless I've missed something (entirely possible) I've not heard many good reviews of the 14-24 for underwater use. Nauticam recommend (they would, wouldn't they) the kit lens (!) Nikkor 24-50 with the WWL-C; and I have read many good reviews of this combination. Maybe worth looking at before jumping for that intermediate solution?
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On 11/28/2025 at 10:19 AM, eikenhorst said: I moved to mirrorless for above water and I am considering making this move for underwater in the future so I don't have to bring two bodies along. However, the Tokina 10-17 is rather unique and the only real alternative to it would be the Nauticam FCP-1. I am still holding off this decision for now due to the high cost involved.
I've gone the same route and have had the same debate with myself. I love the Tokina 10-17 which I use as my go-to wide-angle lens on a Nikon D500. I've thought about a Nikon Z8 or Z6III and the Nikkor 24-50 and Nauticam WWL-C, a combination which many folks say is very good. I'd love to have the in-viewfinder review that mirrorless offers especially for snoot-shoots. But then I think of the cost: new housing, wet lens etc etc and think,... naah.
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Yep, for shallow, sunny water they can be helpful. HSS equipped strobes can be another way of achieving the similar results - although more expensively probably!
I'm not sure about the fitting. Usually ND filters screw directly on to the front of the lens and is therefore inside the housing/port combination and doesn't get wet. Hopefully!
If it is the case that the system you use has the filter in front of a wet lens - so effectively it is getting wet - my suggestion would be to install it before you enter the water and then "burp" it by unscrewing it and replacing to release air bubbles once you are at depth and settled. That way you know you have it, that it fits properly and won't disappear mysteriously from a BCD pocket as you descend.
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Hi Toque
I’m not sure that any specific manufacturer of ND filters makes them for underwater. Hoya filters are good and a reasonable price. The filters are pretty straightforward and underwater doesn’t make much, if any, difference.
Essentially they block light from entering the lens. So this means you can use a wider aperture at the same shutter speed, or reduce a high shutter speed - so keeping it inside the fastest sync speed - if in, say, bright, shallow water.
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Hey Stan!
Welcome to your new home! You’ll see lots of former Wetpixelers here. We’re the refuge!
Great to have you with us.
Best wishes
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35 minutes ago, CaolIla said: I searched but it seems that the member can't change the country. @Moderator How to change th country?
Thanks Caoollla. We’ll pursue.
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3 hours ago, Rune Edvin Haldorsen said: Lovely way of making an anti-spamming control
We try, Rune. God knows we try.
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That’s how you have to start, Jenny. Now you’ve introduced yourself you’re good go. The system is part of our anti-spamming attempt
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Hi Jenny!
Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels!
On Roatan, I suggest you do a separate post about that. Funnily I asked about good diving in Roatan a short while ago to help plan a group trip. I only got one response - unusual from our members.
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f29 is a pretty small aperture which lets in precious little light (and must lead to considerable image softness too). And 1/200 shutter speed is quite fast. Could you not use, say, f11 and 1/60? I doubt though you’re ever going to be able to shoot 10 frames a second with any strobe.
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I would have thought you’d get 2-3 shots - I usually do but have never really tried seriously long bursts - but of course depends on your camera settings: ISO, aperture, Manual/TTL etc. What are you trying to do?
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Hi rlonghitano!
A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. And congratulations on that post-kids back into the water thing!
Best wishes.
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6 hours ago, Craine said: actually have one for the second strobe, but have not mastered it yet. It's the Inon snoot set, so I have a choice of "snoot apertures" and I've not been happy with the wider of the two, but haven't been able to accurately point the smaller of them.
More practice is definitely needed.
Yep, snoots take a good deal of practice especially if the aiming light in your strobe is not in a central position in the strobe. It’s a bit hit and miss and frustrating. I found a snoot to be such a key element of macro photography that I sold my Inon strobes to get Retras which are brilliant for shooting when combined with their LSD snoot.
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Nice work!
A couple of thoughts. It’s one of those images where it’s hard to separate the subject from a similar coloured and complex background. For me, the key then is to try and create separation and an element of neutral space so that the subject can stand out more. This is especially true with the distinctive shape of a seahorse.
I’d suggest shooting up, trying to position to shoot against the blue, a wider aperture to create less depth of field, and/or using a snoot. These are counsels of perfection of course (!) and none maybe easy. I know the location and it may well not have been possible but this is what I’d have been tempted to try.
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Fiber Optic Cable Question
in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
It doesn’t make much difference really. The price is ridiculous though. You can make your own for a few $s. There’s an article on the forum about how to do it.