Posts posted by TimG
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Glad to say I’ve never come across anything like this. Bizarre to say the least. The potential charge was outrageous.
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Emirates insisted on weighing my Pelican 1510 case once in AMS and said it was too heavy. I opened the top, showed them the contents, explained the value, cried, wept, pleaded…. and the manager said ok. I think she was just glad to get rid of me. The only time it has happened in many dozen flights on many airlines.
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3 hours ago, OneYellowTang said: There are several collapsable rinse buckets you can get (that can double as containers for your camera rig in small boats). No issues traveling with one of these.
I always travel with a (now) Kraken was (Cinebags) Grouper XL as a portable rinse tank. During the journey is carries lots of my gear in the cabin. A bit pricey but they are excellent travel bags and rinse tanks.
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I LOVED the D300. A brilliant camera and did well over 1000 dives with one. Subal housing.
Second hand value, even with a couple of bodies? Honestly, not much. If you got $600 I think you’d have done well.
I like @homodelphinius idea of donating. Make someone’s day. Unless you need the cash of course.
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Definitely wide-angle for the day dives. I’ve pretty much given up on daytime macro in the R/S. Macro makes good sense though for the night dives and, yep, not something too demanding in terms of “finding “ the subject in the viewfinder. So 60mm on FF.
As CCRphoto says, it’ll be starting to get a bit nippy. Wrap up warm, Mike 😜
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1 hour ago, Christian K said: You might want the bigger dome with a wide rectilinear like the 16-35, unless only the center of the image needs to be sharp, which tbh in many cases is usable. Nauticam recommends the 230 mm glass-dome.
Yeah, that was my thinking too. My experience with 16-35 rectilinear lenses (in my case the Nikkor 16-35), is that a 230 domeport is pretty much essential unless you are happy with squishy sides and corners. Even then and stopped down to say, f11, perfection is not guaranteed.
You can avoid the problem of course by having non-important edges - blue water for example- where blurring has no impact. But once you start shooting reefs, the edges do tend to show up and is, in my view, one of the drawbacks of FF sensors. (But I think we have sailed around this buoy often enough)
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Hi Mike
Some excellent learning points!
Yep, group dives are pretty hopeless for taking "good" pics. If you go back to Indonesia and you want to photo macro, I'd recommend the Lembeh Straits. Not only amazing (weird!) diving, buy most operations run a two guests-to-one dive guide system. So spending time taking images is relatively easy. And yes, you definitely need a guide but, believe me, that's good!
Wide-angle shots with a group is, errr, challenging to get all the flailing, inelegant legs out the way. Take a buddy (preferably with good legs) and a guide.
Sounds as though the Salted housing buttons may have been subject to the water pressure at 30m and just kissing the camera buttons sufficiently to cause unexcited activations. Expensive though they are, that's one reason why the aluminium housings (Subal, Nauticam, Isotta etc) are so good. And so expensive! Yes, by and large, you get what you pay for.
Sounds as though you had fun though - which is a large part of what its about......
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Hi Brett
A warm welcome to Waterpixels Great to have you with us. We hope you enjoy the forum
Best wishes.
Tim
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Hi Leslie
I've just switched to an OM-1ii with a 60mm Zuiko lens but, like you, have not yet got it in the water.
Just in case you've not found this already......
Messing around topside, as you do, I noticed one issue which would be a pain underwater especially shooting in Manual: it seemed to me that the default setting was that the EVF/screen would lighten or darken depending on the ISO/aperture or shutter speed. Set to Manual mode, with a shutter speed of, say, 1/200 and an f stop of, say, f11, the EVF/screen was pitch black and impossible to see the subject.
I want into MENU > ⚙ GEAR page 3 > LV Mode and set "S-OVF" ("Simulated Optical ViewFinder"). This avoids the problem.
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7 minutes ago, Christian K said: For aps-c, a tokina 10-17 still rules wa zooming inmo, if you can find one.
Totally agree. Horrible topside but underwater, superb! Add a 1.4TC and even more flexibility.
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1 hour ago, ACHiPo said: I ended up getting several plastic bins. I’m gaining on it—the camera, lenses, and housing are all in bins. Now to get the diving detritus stored.
Funny that, my partner keeps talking about bins and my equipment. Perhaps she means for storing it? I'm not sure.
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On 8/29/2026 at 4:40 AM, tiger said: TimG I agree . I love the images I made with a Nikon D200 and D300. It is all about some skill and experience with your tool after all. I was wondering what you thought of the D800 ? Was it a camera you fell in love with at the time?
Yeah, I really liked it. It was a pleasure to use and I got some terrific images from it. But..... I did find having to use a large domeport (230mm) for wide-angle images an utter pain for travelling. My partner found it an even bigger pain!
I used the D800 for about 4 years but decided the travel issues were getting just too much - and switched to a D500. This got me back to a 100mm dome (just tiny in comparison) and a Tokina 10-17mm lens. This was a brilliant setup and I missed nothing from the D800.
As you may have read in other posts I've made, I no longer see the point in having FF unless you have some specific reason for it. Having lost all my D500 gear, I've now gone for M43 in the rebuild.
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2 hours ago, reubencahn said: My left brain is telling me the OM-1 in Nauticam is the way to go. My right brain is lusting after the D500/Subal.
Oh, I hear ya!!!!
Interesting to read of your Subal experience. They serviced a 45-degree viewfinder for me after I scratched the viewing glass a few months ago. That was quite quick. But, yeah, not sure I'd want to invest in a new system. Such a pity. They have been superb housing.
Will post for sure on how it goes.
As for the Nauticam, 45-degree viewfinder. Mercy, it is LARGE compared to the very neat Subal one. Easy to install/remove though, has a diopter adjustment which is nice.
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I love the idea and it was something I asked Retra about a few years ago. They thought then that variable apertures tended to jam after a time and the slide masks were simpler and reliable.
In practice, like @Dave_Hicks I only use probably 2-3 sizes of openings and have just the two round-shapped Retra slide masks in carabiners in a BCD pouch.
Aquatica Glass Dome Polishing Exterior Haze / Water Spots
in General Chat
There’s been loads of posts on this issue. Definitely worth a search.
Some options;
50/50 solution white vinegar and water
Coke
Mothers windscreen cleaner
Brasso
Cerium Oxide powder (as Dave suggests)
Good luck with them. My own experience is that once the film has been on for a while it’s extremely difficult to shift it. Re-glassing has been my experience.
With new ports now, I follow the Chris Ross routine: good soak and do not let the ports (and viewfinder optics) air dry. Wipe them dry with microfibre cloth as they come out the rinse tank.