Posts posted by TimG
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3 hours ago, Rune Edvin Haldorsen said: Lovely way of making an anti-spamming control
We try, Rune. God knows we try.
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That’s how you have to start, Jenny. Now you’ve introduced yourself you’re good go. The system is part of our anti-spamming attempt
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Hi Jenny!
Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels!
On Roatan, I suggest you do a separate post about that. Funnily I asked about good diving in Roatan a short while ago to help plan a group trip. I only got one response - unusual from our members.
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f29 is a pretty small aperture which lets in precious little light (and must lead to considerable image softness too). And 1/200 shutter speed is quite fast. Could you not use, say, f11 and 1/60? I doubt though you’re ever going to be able to shoot 10 frames a second with any strobe.
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I would have thought you’d get 2-3 shots - I usually do but have never really tried seriously long bursts - but of course depends on your camera settings: ISO, aperture, Manual/TTL etc. What are you trying to do?
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Hi rlonghitano!
A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. And congratulations on that post-kids back into the water thing!
Best wishes.
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6 hours ago, Craine said: actually have one for the second strobe, but have not mastered it yet. It's the Inon snoot set, so I have a choice of "snoot apertures" and I've not been happy with the wider of the two, but haven't been able to accurately point the smaller of them.
More practice is definitely needed.
Yep, snoots take a good deal of practice especially if the aiming light in your strobe is not in a central position in the strobe. It’s a bit hit and miss and frustrating. I found a snoot to be such a key element of macro photography that I sold my Inon strobes to get Retras which are brilliant for shooting when combined with their LSD snoot.
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Nice work!
A couple of thoughts. It’s one of those images where it’s hard to separate the subject from a similar coloured and complex background. For me, the key then is to try and create separation and an element of neutral space so that the subject can stand out more. This is especially true with the distinctive shape of a seahorse.
I’d suggest shooting up, trying to position to shoot against the blue, a wider aperture to create less depth of field, and/or using a snoot. These are counsels of perfection of course (!) and none maybe easy. I know the location and it may well not have been possible but this is what I’d have been tempted to try.
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5 hours ago, flowdesign said: Can any admin change the subject from "Light" to "Lite"? A stupid typo😂
With pleasure. Done.
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I’ve been using HSS (on Retra) for some years and really like the feature. I’ve found it pretty much the only way to go for shooting into the sun for WA shots. Being able to shoot at say 1/2000’is really helpful.
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Hey Markus
To add to Chris’ thoughts: yeah, odd that your camera shows the lightning flash symbol on the LCD screen but that it doesn’t stay illuminated. I’m sure it should. Sounds indeed like a faulty contact or maybe a trigger battery issue. Have you tried fresh batteries?
As Chris suggests, clean all the flash and hot shoe contacts. I’m guessing you’ve tried using a regular flashgun on the camera. Does the flash illumination signal remain light? If so, a trigger or sync cable issues looks suspect. Again, trigger batteries or sync cable.
Hello from CT
in Member Introductions
Hi smsteizel!
Welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us.
CT? Connecticut?
We hope you really enjoy the forum.