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TimG

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Posts posted by TimG

    51 minutes ago, Yorkie88 said:

    Now to decide whether to use this or the TRT!

    If it's of any help, I've been using the UWT board for about 8 years and have found it excellent. Batteries (2x CR 2032) last easily through a 2-week dive trip and probably way beyond that. I've switched from Inons to Retras and still use the same board. The UWT has been reliable and (touch wood) problem free. If in the likely event that you do run into problems, Mr UWT, Pavel, is a member on Waterpixels and is very helpful.

    I've never used the TRT but, again, Mr TRT is a Waterpixeler and very helpful.

    • Like 1

    If I read this right, Gary, you want to be able to stand further back from your subject? So getting the same distance from your subject as oyu did with the 105mm

    If that's the case, you could perhaps add a 1.4 or 2.0 teleconverter (TC)? this would increase the magnification of your 18-45mm lens by either 1.4x or 2x. You'd lose a bit of sharpness but arguably not that much and a slight loss of light. You could increase the ISO a little to compensate or use a slightly slower shutter speed or open the aperture. So there are options. You'd also need an extension ring to house the width of the TC - 20mm for, say, the Kenko 1.4 TC which is popular underwater.

    Generally a diopter allows closer focussing rather than necessarily magnfication

    • Like 2

    1 minute ago, dimsak said:

    Downside is that I would need to make my choice before the dive. Will probably hold o that one, but I ll keep it in mind for sure if I find myself wanting more reach!

    That's always the case no matter how many or what lenses you have. It goes to the heart of what I often bang on about. You have to decide before you dive what you want to photograph and go equipped for that. That, to me, is where it does wrong with a mid-zoom: neither here nor there. It's not just the equipment but the mindset too. Go set up for macro and you hunt for macro subjects and their frames. Fisheye and you're hunting wide-angle, looking for sunballs etc; mid-zoom - errrr, heaven knows - bit of this, bit of that, a lot of nothing......

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    Hey dimi

    I use a fisheye for almost everything wide-angle. I had the Signa 15mm for my D800 and loved it. No, I wouldn’t go with the 20-70.

    If you want a topside zoom - which is a no-brainer - I’d go with the 28-200. Even better a 24-200 if you can. I got the Nikkor 24-200 topside and love it. It’d be perfect I’d think for topside Galapagos. Useless underwater!

    • Like 2

    Hey dimsak

    I'm sure you'll get lots of great advice on the qualities of each. I'd like to give you a different perspective:

    My experience has been that a fisheye and a macro are the essentials - anything else is marginal and I'm not convinced by the need for something mid-range.

    The fisheye covers the vast majority of wide-angle stuff unless you are determined to use a rectilinear lens. Then a macro lens covers the majority of the fish portrait and macro type images. You have the excellent Sigma 15mm; and are planning the macro.

    The only potential use for a mid-range, for me, is maybe pelagic that won't come close. But even then, really marginal use

    I've found it better to plan the dive setup for macro or fisheye and then search for subjects that fit that criteria. Mid-range is very much neither here nor there.

    My advice: save your cash.

    • Like 3

    I know we've been over the ground before, but I find the Retras with, as necessary, the Booster work really well with AAs.

    Taking 32 AA batteries is no big deal when you consider just how much gear we are lugging around. And, worst comes to the worst with chargers, AAs are so easily obtainable.

    1 hour ago, FrancoisC said:

    Okar response is "II sticks with AA NiMh because they’re travel-safe, everywhere to find, and rock-solid reliable".

    I agree with Oskar.

    No, you're not missing anything. The USD price is the tax-free price that Retra charge. On the website it explains that import taxes and the like are not included in the price; and that for EU sales, VAT is added at checkout.

    God knows what the US duties/taxes might be. That seems to vary by the day. Or hour. I guess that will be charged by the US-based handling agent for the shipper: DHL usually for Retra, I think

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    Posted

    We seem to be having something of a Spam Attack going on at the moment. Many thanks to members who alerted us to the first intruders.

    Just to let you know that the team are monitoring the situation and are whacking moles as necessary.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2

    Yeah, as Bill suggests, a lot depends on where you live. Home insurance can work and, for the UK, there is a specialist dive gear insurer - but rates are pricey.

    I'd suggest talking to your home insurer and get a clear steer on whether dive gear - and what elements of it - would be covered by a home policy or by an add-on policy or addition.

    • Like 1

    Hi canislupus

    I use a Subal 45-degree viewfinder on a Subal housing with a D500.

    On that system there is a threaded ring which screws on to the viewfinder when it’s pushed into the housing. A pair of o-rings on the part of the viewfinder that pushes through the housing provides the water seal. It’s very simple but effective.

    I do remove the viewfinder for traveling as it’s otherwise an awkward shape in my Pelican case. It’s a 2-3 minute job to install or remove it using a very simple tool. Once you’ve done it once or twice, I’m sure you’ll be comfortable with the process.

    • Like 1
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    11 minutes ago, Floris Bennema said:

    Like adjusting aperture 4 clicks down to get a better DOF and 'automaticly' the strobe 4 clicks up. Usefull if you spend a longer time on one subject.

    I can't say I've heard of a camera adjusting aperture in coordination with a flash EV setting other than, I guess if you use TTL and Auto settings. But would you really want to do that?

    I would have thought it simpler and more controllable just to use the aperture setting as part of the Manual exposure to mange DOF and then the strobe setting dial to increase or decrease power.

    • Like 1

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