Skip to content
Classifieds Forum Closing Soon — Marketplace Is Now Open (Click To Read More)

TimG

Super Moderators

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United Kingdom
View Profile Find content

Posts posted by TimG

    Hey guys

    All the excellent advice was much appreciated.

    I thought it might be of vague interest to post on making the switch from (some years back) a FF Nikon D800 to APS-C with a D500 in 2017 - and now to M43 with an OM System OM-1.....

    I thought the D800 was great and loved the colours out of the camera. My big issue though was The Big Issue: the port for wide -angle. Traveling with a 230 domeport was an utter pain. It was either the camera system or, so she threatened, my partner. What can I say....

    So, sold the D800/Subal and switched to D500/Subal. As you may have seen here, loved it! Nine very happy years with the system, pure muscle memory and I was pretty sure that it would see out my diving life. However...... it is all now a burnt-out mess on the bottom of a Maldivian harbour.

    So starting from scratch: I wanted something reasonably transportable, still with ICLs and well-supported in Europe.

    Based on the advice you guys gave and some additional reading, I have gone with the OM-1 and M43.

    The first lens, an Olympus 60mm macro, arrived yesterday. Yeah Gods. It's like Honey I Shrank The Kids. Tiny! Where's the rest of the lens? The Panasonic 8mm FE arrived a few hours later and is minuscule. The OM-1 arrived last night. Not such a shock as I'm using a Z6iii topside but, still, significantly smaller than a D500.

    After a great dealer response, I'm now waiting for the Nauticam housing, ports etc. I really, really agonised over switching from Subal to Nauticam. I've used Subal for over 25 years and loved the quality and feel. But no response when I contacted Subal about housings so, somewhat reluctantly, I've gone to Nauticam. Bottom line, they are very well supported in the Netherlands/Europe, loads of innovation in their products - so let's see.

    I've stayed with the Nauticam equivalent of a 45-degree finder, ordered a flat port, the USB-C bulkhead (thanks for that great idea!), vacuum sensor setup (sorry, Miso at Vivid Sentinel). Our very own Chris Ross is selling me his Zen100 domeport.

    So there we are: Full frame to APS-C to M43......

    Will post if there are any interesting developments.

    (I'm now intrigued about how big a camera bag/box I'll need)

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
    • Haha 1

    I've listed for sale in the new Waterpixels "Marketplace" forum a number of Subal EXRs, zoom rings, 8" DP-FE4 domeport and FP105VR flat port.

    I'm selling these following the loss of my housing, camera and all other u/w photog gear in a liveaboard fire in the Maldives. I

    All the gear is in great condition and except for the DP-FE is complete with Subal boxes.

    Full details are on the Marketplace (subtle hint from me as a Mod to move over folks to the new, super Marketplace forum and leave Classifieds which will close.....).

    Happy to listen to offers, discount for bulk buying! Shipping from Amsterdam to EU or UK included in price.

    Thanks!

    • Haha 1

    2 hours ago, Muellema said:

    From my point of view too many accidents with liveaboards these days. May be more liveaboards----more accidents. I do liveaboards since 1992 but current I'm feeling a bit unwell booking next trip.

    Br Markus

    Totally agree. There seems to be one every few weeks.

    • Like 1

    Hi Nick!

    A warm welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us.

    Where you’ve posted your question is designed just as an intro as part of our anti-spammer system. It’d be much better if you post it as a new topic in the Photography Gear and Techniques forum. I’m sure you’ll get lots of help.

    Best wishes

    4 hours ago, Sokrates said:

    The only thing i dont like is that you have to connect the cable from led's to trigger when taking/putting camera in, and have forgotten about it once and almost felt like i broke the pins/cable when taking the camera out.

    Hmmm, that's an interesting thought. I guess though that you can leave the electronics box attached to the LEDs and just slide the box off the camera before removing it from the housing? In the same way you would remove a hot shoe connector?

    I'm looking at getting the Turtle 3 Manual version for an OM-1ii in a Nauticam housing.

    Can anyone confirm that the Turtle definitely fits? I'm guessing that's not a problem given the Nauticam housing has space for the OM flash trigger but just wanted to check.

    Any comments/experiences with the combination would be most welcome. I plan to use Retra Pro Max strobes.

    Thanks!

    18 hours ago, Troporobo said:

    You’ve described my system (well, the camera body is a generation older). I’ve been very happy with it. The 60mm macro lens is fantastic and produces top quality images, add a +5 diopter and you’d want for nothing. I use a Nauticam port with the 8mm fisheye and find nothing to complain about there either. A 12mm rectilinear will also work behind that port for a bit more reach. I’d guess that compared to a Subal the Nauticam housing won’t feel nearly as refined, but it’s plenty ergonomic for me. Good luck shopping!

    How much buoyancy do you usually need to add for a macro and a WA setup? I usually add Stix Jumbo floats to ULCS arms.

    Still mourning my beloved Subal housed D500, I have to think about next steps.

    I don’t want FF and there’s no Nikon Z equivalent to a D500. So I’m thinking M43 and the Olympus OM-1

    I thought I’d switch to Nauticam. Paired with a 45 degree finder.

    Then an Olympus 60mm macro and FP.

    Tokina 10-17s are hard to find so I’m thinking a 100mm Zen glass domeport with either the 8mm Pany or 8mm Olympus.

    Various articles I’ve read suggest the 8mm Pany works better in a Zen100 dome than the Olympus. But maybe I’m missing something?

    I’m not sure I really want to head down the Canon 8-15/adaptor route. I do have a Nikkor 8-15 but understand that’s hard to set up with an Olympus.

    So that’s where I’m at: saddened with slight trepidation staring into the barely known.

    Thoughts welcome to add to excellent advice from Chris.

    Thanks!

    • Like 1

    On 5/27/2026 at 3:17 PM, Davide DB said:

    Hi Tim,

    All dive shops in Rome, in agreement with the customer who bought the mask, mark the upper limit of the lens to be applied on the mask glass and then send it to Ottica Berti, specifying the correction.

    The shop has the lenses, glues them on, and sends it back.

    Ottica Berti - Da oltre 60 anni il tuo negozio di Ottica a Roma

    Maschere da Sub Graduate - Ottica Berti

    Trova maschere subacquee graduate di alta qualità. Comfort e visione chiara sott'acqua con soluzioni su misura per i tuoi sport acquatici.

    (Linked Page is about whole prescriprion mask but they also apply the correction lens in the lower part of the glass)

    In my opinion, if you send an email, they will do it for you without any problems.

    Alternatively, if you want a Cressi Occhio, I can buy it for you from my trusted shop, do all the work, and ship it to you. If you like, I can let you know the total cost.

    Davide, thanks! If you can, a Cressi Big Etes and let me know the cost. 🙏👍🏼👍🏼

    • Like 1

    Amongst all the items I lost in a liveaboard fire was my Cressi Big Eyes mask which Seethesea had bonded +2 readers into the lower element of the mask. The mask was perfect.

    Does anyone know anywhere in the EU who bonds lenses into masks? I don’t need a full mask lens, just readers. Otherwise it’s going to be an old pair of readers on a cord I guess.

    • Like 1

    I think that's the over-heating warning

    I pulled this off ChatGPT:

    This happens when:

    • shooting long rapid bursts,

    • using high power repeatedly,

    • using strong modeling/pilot light,

    • or in warm water/air conditions.

    The strobe will automatically:

    • reduce flash power,

    • limit the pilot light,

    • or temporarily stop normal operation
      to protect internal components.

    What to do:

    • stop firing for a minute or two,

    • turn down pilot light brightness,

    • reduce burst shooting,

    • let the strobe cool in the water.

    Once temperature drops, the blinking should stop automatically.

    Retra specifically recommends shooting in intervals with 30–60 second pauses if you’re pushing the strobe hard.

    Oskar might well chip-in.......

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications
Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.