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TimG

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Posts posted by TimG

    Do any of our EU members have by any chance a spare length of Asahi MCQ-1000 fibre optic cable, ie the sort we ordered from the US?

    I lost all my cables and spares in the fire in the Maldives and am trying to rebuild my gear. I just cannot find it in the EU despite contacting various fibre optic companies. I know I could use Toslink etc, but the Asahi cable has always worked so well for me I'd like to use that if I can.

    Half a metre would really help. One metre would be brilliant! Happy to pay costs/shipping (to Amsterdam) of course.

    Thanks!

    5 hours ago, gnarliest_gnome said:

    Thanks Tim! I'd like to hear your thoughts on choosing Nauticam over AOI and what lenses you've been enjoying shooting underwater. The only lens I have right now that is appropriate for underwater is the 60 mm macro.

    I’m moving to the OM system having lost all my gear in a fire on a liveaboard in the Maldives. See my article A Word To The Wise.

    I’d being using Subal housings for 25 years always with a 45-degree viewfinder which I loved. I lost a Nikon D500-based system which I saw little point in trying to replace given the camera’s age. I settled on the OM as the replacement given its reputation and size for travelling.

    Having had Subals, I really wanted a housing of that quality and 45-degree viewfinder capable. Given the increasing rarity, sadly, of Subals and the popularity of Nauticam (easy access to parts, service, resale value etc), I decided to go with that. I only started playing with the housing yesterday. Have to say, early days, I’m impressed. It’s a quality product with very good integration of things like a vacuum alarm and USB charging. So much to learn though with both a new camera and housing!

    Based on advice from folks here, including Chris, I’ve bought the Olympus 60mm macro and 8mm Panasonic lenses and will see how that goes. These replicate close to what I used on the D500. (Either Nikkor 60 or 105 and the much-loved Tokina 10-17)

    • Like 2

    I don’t use Pixelmator so can only guess on its operation. Id suggest though not necessarily using an auto system. Better to start I think doing things manually and getting a feel for what function creates what effect.

    All that said, back to what I said originally: it’s all very personal. If you’re delighted with the end result, then bingo!

    Hi Kevin

    Final edits and colouration is such a personal thing.

    For me, the framing is good. I like the increasing light towards the surface which locates the subject nicely. Again, for me, the divers draw the eye away from the subject without adding to the story the picture tells. I’d edit them out. And, yet again, very personally, I find the oranges a little over-saturated. I’d tone them down slightly.

    All that said, new to editing? 👍🏼👍🏼

    I do think CFWA is a good option in poor viz. The setup is based on getting very close to a subject but setting it against a wide background. The poor viz alternative is macro. It could be of course that in poor viz the background isn’t great or at least far from ideal. But that doesn’t necessarily matter.

    I’m not sure about using video lights. But maybe others can comment on using them for WA with a TG. I wouldn’t do it with larger sensor cameras for still images.

    • Like 2

    17 minutes ago, bghazzal said:



    Any opinion on flip holders? Can they get badly stuck on a port if not removed regularly or does soaking generally avoid that?

    I’d suggest a periodic rinsing and cleaning of any parts that needs screwing together. Galvanic action, salt accumulation etc can all have a gluing effect. I’d probably do that maybe once a week if diving really frequently

    • Like 1

    Sounds like a very thorough job!

    A bit like Dave's approach, I only remove and clean the port o-ring if I change the lens/port. If the seal is good and I'm not changing lens, I leave it in place until diving is done for a while.

    If I'm diving in a sandy environment (I'm thinking sandy shore entries), I'd probably check, remove and clean the housing o-ring IF I had to open the back. But if, say, liveaboard diving in reasonably clear water, I'd check the o-ring visually if I open the back. But, like, Dave, would likely leave it in place unless I could see debris on it.

    Slackening off the arm clamps during rinsing is important, I think. My partner didn't release a clamp over several months and it was the devil's own job to loosen it.

    Watermarks on ports are a pain. A comment @Chris Ross made some time ago had me wiping ports down after rinsing them - good tip I thought. I have tried using denaturalised water after rinsing but came to the conclusion it made no difference and that water isn't cheap.

    • Thanks 1

    Hi hamsteRfury

    If you’re looking for advice on this, it’d be better to start a new post rather than continuing in this thread.

    More people read and respond in the Technique forum rather than in this one which is essentially for new members to introduce themselves and is part of our anti-spamming system.

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