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TimG

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Posts posted by TimG

    13 minutes ago, Elvandar said:

    @TimG I created a dedicated post to get suggestion for the tripod, I will consider the weight problem, after so much calculation I have done to go neutral bouyant, I am now starting to go on the negative side 😅

    I'll just have to remove the top float arm to get a less bulky setup and +800 grams if needed 


    Yep, sadly if you want to use any system mid-water, almost neutrally buoyant is nice. But if you want a system that sits on the bottom then you have to add weight. 
     

    Id suggest putting some sort of ring underneath the system that you can clip a weight on to it. Carry the weight clipped on to your BCD when you don’t need it in the tripod.
     

    Other ways I’ve seen it done is to detach the GoPro from your float system and use a GoPro clamp on a bit of dead coral or old wreck. 
     

    A mate of mine has attached a GoPro fitting to one of those magic writing slates to which he added a small weight. The slate provides a brilliant platform which sits perfectly on the bottom. I’ll try and get a pic for you. It’s a terrific, easy and cheap way of stabilising a GoPro on the bottom. 

    • Like 3

    4 hours ago, Elvandar said:

    @Jochen how much does your setup weight, and what tripod are you using?

    image.jpeg

    I got this setup with a gopro, 2 torc and wet lens and it weight around 3 kg on land, and 2/300 grams underwater

    I got some doubt on what tripod I need to stabilize the setup underwater, and I'd like to have the most light solution


    You may well find to create a stable platform that you need to add a weight. Not unusual for a GoPro setup. 

    • Like 1

    No worries, Friso. Glad you have a solution.
     

    Your system should work no problem on the 7 setting and you then choose TTL or Manual strobes on the Retra control. One thought though: on the camera flash sync speed in the Menu settings, what does it show? Is it on a speed or the FP setting? That might be the issue. 

     

    But it’s good you’re back in business. Happy shooting! 

    Yep, you can use less air without a camera! With practice though you can you use less!

     

    Just reviewing the images you posted, on the shot of the I menu screen. Select the flash symbol and turn the command dial. Does that change that lightening symbol to something else? Red eye reduction? Flash off? Rear curtain sync? Just rotate it to see. You do need, I think, the simple lightening symbol that you see on the image. But just check. 
     

    One other thing to check: I’m assuming you’re using a shutter speed that will sync with the strobes? No faster than 1/250. 
     

    The key though is to see if the trigger fires the LEDs when you fire the shutter. 

    • Thanks 1

    Hi Friso

     

    Good that you’ve eliminated the problem as not being the strobes or the cables. 
     

    I don’t have a Z8 so I’m not entirely familiar with the controls. However with a D500 when you connect the flash sync on to the camera, a small lightening symbol appears on the LCD screen which shows it is connected and will fire a flash. Can you see something like that?

     

    You've changed the batteries on the UWT trigger. Ok. When the camera is connected to the trigger, fire the shutter, can you see the trigger LEDs flash? That is the key indicator of whether or not the trigger is working, the sync connection is right and the camera set correctly. If there is no flash then one of those three things isn’t working as you need. 
     

    You’ve reset the hot shoe connector. Are there any signs of dirt or salt etc on the pins under the hot shoe connector? Just give them a good wipe clean and same in the camera. 
     

    I’ve found the UWT triggers very reliable so if you’ve changed the batteries, I’d suspect a camera setting. 
     

    Do you have a standard flash gun nearby you could use? If so, stick that on the camera and see if it fires. If it does it’s not a camera setting. If it fails to fire then it looks even more like a camera setting. 
     

    Can you Google the camera manual and just check how to turn flash on and off in a Z8 menu system? (I’ve not got very good internet access at the moment). 

    • Thanks 1

    Have you by any chance turned the flash setting off on the camera? When the flash hot shoe is on the camera, can you see the lightening symbol showing in the viewfinder or on the Z8 info screen. If it shows you know you have a good flash connection to the camera. 
     

    Is the UWT board on the right setting for the Retras? (That small dial on the UWT board)?

     

    It shouldn’t be too difficult to isolate the problem. It’s either a faulty hot shoe connection, a trigger board issue or the cables. Sounds like you’ve eliminated the cables. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Hey Friso

     

    What a pain. So, if you disconnect the fibre optic cables from the camera and fire the strobes, can you see the trigger LEDs fire? If so, the trigger is ok. If not, there’s a trigger problem. Try new batteries; make sure the hot shoe is attached properly on both the camera and to the UWT board. 
     

    If the trigger fires and you can see the flash, reattach the fibre optic cables and fire the trigger. Can you see a light at the end of the cables? If so, the cables are ok. If not, there’s a problem with your cables. (Bit unlikely both are faulty but you never know)

     

    You say your Retras are ok. Great! 
     

    The key thing at this stage is does the UWT trigger flash? 

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    On 11/6/2024 at 8:56 PM, Dave_Hicks said:

     

    It is crystal clear that the days of the AA battery powered strobe are over. Done. There are better power options available with LiOn batteries today and they open up better feature sets and utility. While you may be satisfied with your current products, it's highly unlikely that future iterations will keep using AA power cells.


    Dave, why are you so certain AA powered strobes are over?  They are such a simple solution. Easy to obtain, inexpensive, unlikely to explode, no issues of moving them by air (or mail!), and as far as I can tell for most uses, deliver sufficient power. Am I missing something? Other than my dive computer and camera battery, I use AAs for everything and standardising makes charging and cable management so much easier. 

    • Like 2

    8 hours ago, fruehaufsteher2 said:

    As an innovation leader like Retra, you naturally always take a higher risk with new product launches than with companies that copy existing technology and adapt it to their own requirements. Underwater photography is always a niche market. I can therefore well understand the decision. However, I hope that a battery compartment with 18650 or comparable, standardized high-capacity batteries will be considered for the next generation.

    I have the new Pro Max and have absolutely no complaints about battery life. The flash battery typically lasts as long as the battery in my camera, which actually only needs to be recharged after 2-3 days.

    Totally agree. I’m delighted with my ProMaxs and the battery life with the booster. 

    Hey Sacha

     

    I do think having two arms on the strobe is a good idea as it allows for maximum flexibility. 

     

    That said, yes, you might have problems with the balance of the system if the strobe side is negatively or positively buoyant. But this is something you can play around with and you might well be able to keep your system level.

     

    Really system levelling is, in my view, only an issue if it leads to stress or pain in your wrists in achieving a level image. If it does, then you need to tackle it - maybe by adding something to the non-strobe side. But all relatively easy to resolve.

     

    On the ball heads, they do tend to be a standard size: 1".  If you can get a reasonable solid feel to the system, I would not worry.  If they are floppy underwater then, yes, something needs changing. It could be that using a thicker o-ring solves that problem.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

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