Apteryx

A variation on a theme above:- the cap floats so this variation takes advantage of that. - 4 drainage holes drilled in cap - 2 holes drilled in cap for securing cord - securing cord: length determined by arm geometry (see photos) - securing cord loop : tied with "Double Fisherman's Bend" on inside of cap - I use two plastic button clips (stainless springs) and a "snoopy loop" (bicycle tyre loop) to secure cap. - loop the cord over closest ball post or other attachment point. Use one of plastic button clip to reduce flapping or secure on ball post - when remove the cap, use the snoopy loop or second plastic button to secure loop to an upper arm strobe clamp or similar (snoopy loop in photo is loose to show location) I find that the cap floats upward (above the clamp) and does not 'flutter' too much when swimming around. Richard

Richard here from New Zealand. A seasoned diver who has dabbled with underwater photography starting out with a Nikonos IVA which is still around somewhere gathering dust. 2006 I got back into it with an Olympus SP-350 and an INON D2000 flash before a Gopro 4 in 2013 rekindled the passion resulting in an Olympus TG4 in 2017 with Weefine 3000 ringlight and the Inon. Splashed out last year with a Sony A7C and 28-60mm lens, Nauticam housing, WWL-1B, CMC-1, CMC-2 and a new INON Z330 to compliment the aging D2000. I did a lot of supermacro with the TG4 and finding that the 28-60mm + CMC-1/2 not up to capturing the 3-4mm nudis (even stacking the CMC-1 and 2) so invested in a Sony 90mm and SMC-1.