John E

Glad to hear that is possible. I use Canon 8-15 with Sony. I have both Olympus and Sony Isotta housings but do not have the EF to MfT metabones adapter. Was planning on selling the Olympus but also thinking about keeping it. I use the B120 to B102 adapter so extensions and ports are interchangeable. For Canon on Sony they list zoom gears for use with an adapter only, and with adaptor plus teleconverter. I expect the part is like those gears with the different length to match the zoom cog in the housing body? They don’t seem to list the extension length on their port chart but have a wide range, so sounds like that would be simple. I doubt any custom parts would be needed.

Thanks. I hadn't noticed the two different 6.5 inch ports.

With this set up in an Isotta housing I am trying to find out what (if any) the sharpness compromises are on a smaller (4.5 inch fisheye dome) versus a 6 inch dome, and if small apertures and no need for circular fisheye, or absolute 180 degree coverage, mean the 4.5 inch is fine. I notice Zen have a 100mm fisheye port for the Canon 8-15..... a European company gives diameter in inches and an American company in mm ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Thankyou Massimo. Your tests were a big help in me choosing the Canon 8-15 and newer Kenko 1.4 on Sony A7Rv. On this camera there is also the versatility of using APS-C mode and getting a good zoom range with the same image quality as the A6700, but having both options works well.

Hi Sundeep, I also learnt a lot from Massimo, Wolfgang and also Chris Ross. I'm not sure if Massimo is referring to Nauticam ports? I have Isotta and OM-D EM 1 ii (also now a Sony in Isotta). The 102mm port diameter is a bonus with Isotta. I have the 8mm with the 4.5 inch glass dome and the 7-14 with the 8 inch dome. Both really good, although as Chris says there is also now the OM system 8-25mm which sounds a good range but it's minimum focusing distance is still 23cm so not sure how that effects things with a 6.5 inch dome? If you don't mind a change, the Tokina with an adaptor sounds like a great zoomable solution to cover both lenses, but as Chris says the Isotta port chart doesn't cover it so you would have to figure the extension out, or maybe Isotta can tell you. Check the thread about the advantages of fisheye zooms, there is a chart with the zoom ranges of different options.

If they are about the same price the Metabones would be a safer bet than the Sigma. In Australia the Sigma is about half the price. I have a Sigma MC-11 on Sony A7Rv ... works great on photos, doesn't focus on video.

Hi Phil, It is true Isotta's port charts list the options but don't say which is the optimum image-quality solution for each lens, which would be better, but that is easy to find out when purchasing form a dealer. (I think naïve is not a fair description.) The same thing seems common practice with other manufacturers. From what I can see, Marelux lists their 7 inch and 9 inch domes as being suitable for wide rectilinear lenses. They even have a 5.5 inch fisheye port listed for the Nikon 14-24 F mount lens (minimum focus 28cm at 18-24mm), but not 14-24 Z mount (minimum focus 28cm at all zoom positions) along with the 7 inch and 9 inch domes, but no information on which is optimum.

Just to avoid possible confusion, the current "premium" quality Kenko 1.4x tele-converters are called "Teleplus HD Pro 1.4X DGX". There isn't "premium" in the name. The other cheaper current model is the Teleplus HD 1.4X DGX

As interceptor121 says the current model is called Kenko Teleplus HD Pro 1.4X DGX. By the way, as you mention you are figuring out about the adaptor, my Sigma MC-11 does not focus at all on my Sony A7Rv when the top stills/video dial is set to video. To focus I need to move that dial to stills, then focus, then back to video for single focus. But far from ideal if you do much video, in which case the Metabones is better. And then apparently the Metabones version 5 has a slightly larger internal diameter than the version 4. So that means it can work with the Sony 1.4X teleconverter, but that is placed behind the converter rather than in front of it (not sure what impact that has). So an alternative solution to the Kenko... Maybe others can confirm... I just picked this info up from other posts (old Wetpixel site) before I bought mine.

In case it is of interest, I am planning on putting my Olympus OMD EM 1 ii with Isotta housing up for sale and will be looking for around 60% retail value for the housing and AU$850 (440 pounds sterling) for the camera plus extra battery. I'll be selling the Olympus 8mm fisheye, 7-14mm with Isotta gear, 12-40 Pro and 60mm macro lenses too. The gear is all in excellent condition with original boxes and around two years old. I needed high resolution (research and coral recruitment monitoring zooming in lots to see small coral recruits) so ended up with a Sony A7RV. But.... I am in Australia, although I have relatives visiting from UK in Feb March who could bring the housing to the UK and post locally. I have a reef tour business called Wavelength Reef Cruises so that could handle payment transaction. I was planning on posting in the classifieds here when I get round to it.

Not stopping you ! These photos show how Sony full frame is not necessarily much bigger than M43....

I'm an Isotta user rather than Nauticam. I changed to Sony from an Olympus with an 8mm fisheye (4.5 inch dome) and a 7-14mm lens (8 inch dome +60mm extension). I opted for the Canon 8-15 plus Sigma MC11 + Kenko which also uses the 60mm extension and 8 inch dome. II have so far just been using the 8 inch dome port . would need to get a 50mm extension to use the 4.5 inch. As I have a 102mm diameter port on the Olympus Isotta housing and 120mm on the Sony I just needed to buy the B120 to B102 converter. The zoom range is not very large but I am very happy - including not having to buy a new port or extension with the 8 inch. I am also getting a WWL-1. The focus for stills with the Sigma is fine but not for video.

For reference - I have an Inon 45 degree X-2 (for Inon and Isotta) and that mount is 33mm diameter and 16mm deep (just measured with a ruler so not exact to a fraction of a mm)

Indeed the photos are mainly for ID purposes. I am trying to set the camera so subject recognition is as best set up as possible but I also have quick ability to toggle it of and on. Then, like Chris says, get experience of what the limitations are and when to leave it off.

Thanks Wolfgang, I've noted your settings chart and will experiment a bit more with the animal detailed settings. I have also set the subject recognition on/off toggle to the video record button. For others maybe reading this I also watched a helpful video on AI subject recognition from Mark Galer, a Sony ambassador. Following that for subject recognition and tracking of swimming fish I am inclined to leave subject on "Animal/Bird" and Recognition Part on "Eye/Head/Body".

Thanks Chris Ross, I have been diving with the Sony 90mm and tried "Animal/Bird" and "Animal" in the settings. I've tried Eye/Head and Eye/Head/Body. I've also tried changing the "Tracking Persistence" from 3 to 4. But I have found the tracking mainly either locks on some complex part of the background such as a bit of branching coral, or locks on temporarily then looses the fish, giving less predictable results compared to just using spot autofocus without tracking. I'll try your suggestion about birds and note your point about perched birds being more similar to fish. Also, continuing that thought, the background of tree branches could be similar to coral branches. I also will try to be more methodical in figuring out what changes seem to make a difference. So far I've probably been changing too many things at once! This picture was taken using small spot autofocus rather than tracking but I guess tracking should make this sort of picture easier.

Thanks Chris, That is super helpful. I saw tracking is covered a bit by Alex in video 2 around approximately 22 mins onwards. It looks like Alex has his tracking sensitivity on standard (3) (In the AF/MF menu 1 -> AF Tracking Sensitivity) and uses "animal" as the target (AF/MF menu 3). He talks about the "stickiness" of tracking being fine set like that. I still wonder about the recognition target settings... I am making an assumption that the animal setting is designed for terrestrial animals rather than fish, hence me wondering if moving from the standard settings improves fish tracking. The specific menu that I am looking at adjusting is the sub-menu after selecting the type of recognition target (i.e. Animal) That is, From AF/MF menu 3 -> Recognition Target -> Animal -> this then leads to five more options that I haven't seen covered elsewhere: Tracking Shift range (can be selected 1 (narrow) to 5 (wide) .... currently on standard (3) Tracking persistence Level (1 (Not Locked On)to 5 (Locked On) .... currently on standard (3) Recognition Sensitivity (1 (Low) to 5 (High)) .... currently on standard (3) Recognition Part (Eye/Head/Body, Eye/Head, Eye) ... currently on Eye/Head Recog. Part Sel. Settings (Eye/Head/Body, Eye/Head/Eye) .. currently on Eye/Head I've tried experimenting but it was inconclusive without really understanding what the camera's algorithms are designed for (cats and dogs !?), and feel the recognition sensitivity could be key...

Hi, I'm looking for any advice on good settings for using subject tracking autofocus on a Sony A7RV that is quite new to me. I have previously used an Olympus OMD EM 1ii where I used small spot auto focus but I don't have experience with subject tracking. My goal is photos of small fast moving fish. Thanks.

After having been on Wetpixel previously I firstly want to say thank you so much to the key people for creating Waterpixels! I started diving in 1982 and became an instructor in 1988 whilst studying marine biology. My wife and I now have a reef tourism business called Wavelength Reef Cruises in Port Douglas on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, taking snorkellers on day trips to the outer reef. I started underwater photography with a Nikonos iii but had a break for many years before going from Canon point and shoot, to Olympus TG, to OM-D EM 1 ii in an Isotta housing, to a recently purchased Sony A7RV in an Isotta housing. I mainly take pictures for fun but also have been involved in reef restoration techniques. This led to co-founding the Coral Nurture Program on the GBR in 2018, and so I also take pictures of our research projects. John

After having been on Wetpixel previously I firstly want to say thank you so much to the key people for creating Waterpixels! I started diving in 1982 and became an instructor in 1988 whilst studying marine biology. My wife and I now have a reef tourism business called Wavelength in Port Douglas on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia taking snorkellers to the outer reef. I started underwater photography with a Nikonos iii in the 1980's but had a break for many years. In the last 10 years I have gone from Canon point and shoot to Olympus TG to OM-D EM 1 ii in an Isotta housing to a recently purchased Sony A7RV in an Isotta housing. I mainly take pictures for fun but also have been involved in reef restoration techniques. This led to co-founding the Coral Nurture Program on the GBR in 2018, and so I also take pictures of our research projects. John