HCIdiver

Everyone take a bow. I went home amd went into that box of cables i never throw away, found a tos optical and gave it a snip and boom it works again. Returning the other set of cables i paid 100 euros for... Happy days.

I think you are 100% right. I was in a hurry ordering from that site, never bought there before. The cables look cheap, and comparing the light output on my one working cable its very different. I can point the old caable towards the window in kitchen and i see a huge ball of light. Nothing comes out of there new ones unless i hold it up to a bright light source. I need to source good DIY cable in EMEA/Ireland...

I have inon Z240 Type 4. Nauticam A7R5 housing and Nauticam trigger. I have had issues with my strobes (either strobe) firing on the second cable. I bought this: https://www.saltedlineeurope.com/products/fiber-optic-cable-inon-d-type-to-sea-sea-2-meters?_pos=1&_sid=981ddcef5&_ss=r Brand new and it doesnt fire at all... on either strobe. I have tested both strobes, I have swapped cables problem follows the old cable. I have snipped with razors the cable ends. I can get it to fire with no cable ends. WHen i bend the cable into the holders it fails to fire. If i place the cable in the holder, but dont bend them or screw them in they work 100% of the time. wtf am i ding wrong? I have one old cable that works fine on both strobes, but i cannot make or buy a new one that works on both. The salted line cable has my strobe in the decription... why doesnt it work at all?

Turns out the battery was low, just needed to change it. RTFM! I left it on for days to fight the condensation issue keeping camera locked in its atmosphere. In the end we got no sun this week so i stayed on the dome, with what i knew worked well. Ill be back again someday. Waiting to hear how the 2nd week group gets on, 6minutes less light every day each side. Whales could be moving further north to feed we will see ...

Paying back all the great advice to this site, here is my day two update in Norway: Its dark. Waters warm but its snowing. Morning has the best light. Starting my days with the 180dome and using 800iso fixed. Im using speed priority set at 125. (Missed some orca on slow shutter). Camera steps the aperture ranging from 2.8 to 7. Its all been fast action and no bait balls so only adjustments are between dives. The ace pro insta is working out amazingly mounted on top, and im not a video shooter. Edwar is showing me all Brandons tricks for keeping the camera locked up to prevent sweating. Its painful bot being able to crack open the housing. The vacuum detector is red since i had to charge the battery.... Any quick ways to reset? Remember i cant just dry it out inside....

Thanks Brandon. Just boarded with Nick and read yer advice! I packed both but i think ill start with the Dome. If we get lucky i will try the wwl at least once for experience. Not a lot of ☀️ on the forecast yet. Hoping we cross paths some day....

For focus i might try subject detect on animal with expandable flexible spot in the middle to begin with. Im hoping to keep iso at 800 or less this time, but thats hope. Whales are fairly slow moving so im going to use live view on and see how low i need to go. F8 is the goal but willing to drop. Hoping im spoiled for targets, no garuntees.

I hope we both get good luck! Thanks for sharing this. Evening comes early in Norway so plenty of time to plan the next days setup and settings. Unless the sun jumps out the settings dont change much either.

The first two visits to Skjervoy i shot the a7r2 at 1600iso max. An example shooting side and slightly down is my orca family shot.

Wider is useful in a bait ball. Sometimes u have to shoot down and sometimes theres no light to speak of so the 2.8 was used for sure. In brighter conditions it might be ok to use higher fstops. I guess ill play it by ear. I did try the 8-15mm canon but found it wasnt able for the dark conditions and abondoned it one year.

To be clear, im using a7r5. Choice is just with the lens setup. I guess u helped answer my question, ill pack both! Only thing the wwl cant do is split shots but not many opportunities for them in the fjords anyway.

Heading to Norway this weekend for my 3rd trip to the herring hunt amd hoping for Orca and Humpies again. Last time I went A7R2 with 16-35mm f2.8 and the smaller 180mm Dome. Light is always a premium this time of year and not always available when the action is. I have acquired the WWL-1 with the SEL FE 28-60mm F4-5.6 amd the A7RV.... Will i stick to the dome? Bring the wwl as a backup? What do you think?

I started with the CMC-1 when i had an RX100. I brought it with me to the Sony A7R2 with the 90mm lens and yeah i found it difficult. i never consulkted the gods (ALex T from Nauticam UK) or the port charts i just went for it. I shoot in Ireland on a lot of drift dives and learned i needed very calm conditions to attempt. But when it goes well its pretty amazing. You have to learn to "feel" the distance and now i can just point at a nudibranch and it comes into frame. Then its just pateience, luck and calm conditions to get something good to lineup. Ive moved to the 28-60 with the A7r5 and listened to advice from AlexT on not pairing the 90/CMC1 but i havent bought the SMC-1 yet - still having fun with the WWL1 and 60+CMC1 options on same dive.

Closed. I bought a new one off of Lars in Denmark.

OK. Did a bit of googling... and found a post on this site from @Architeuthis here: Based on this I am guessing the answer to my question is 13mm! REplies below if im wrong...

I was watching alex excellent video on a1 Sony settings and he mentioned using SteadyShot Adjust Manual mode when using the 28-60 lens with the wwl-b1 wet lens. He suggested to dial in the focal length in this scenario. Quick kudos for the smart ones on here that know how i can find this out please? Is it 14mm or more or less? Weather is bad here so im tweaking....

Always good to meet another photog in ireland diving... i wonder if we ever shared a rib? diving southwest mostly kilkee on the regular. @Mike

Could swap with my 21150 Extension ring 50 with lock

https://www.uwvisions.com/ports-domes/se1635-z-zoom-gear-for-sony-vario-tessar-t-fe-16-35mm-f4-za-oss/ https://www.uwcamerastore.com/nauticam-se1635-z-zoom-gear-for-sony-vario-fe-16-35mm-f4-za?fbclid=IwAR1STRSsQidtGbYPQqQUn3cp97CqQTXkF0FrLJtVCVakxG7u8yILoNeY6AQ Bought new from Alex T. never relaly used it - then chnaged lenses and now chnaged cameras/housing. Asking 120 euro - shipping included if its cheap/easy. or make decent offer. Paypal / Revolut

Looking for some help please. I have upgraded and want to pass on my old gear - but I dont want to sell it too cheap (or rob my friend either). Is there a formula or fair way to calculate our old gear? It does seem to hold value - but its also only going to age sitting on the shelf... Gear I want to sell is for Nauticam A7Rii, well used, but in good working order. - Housing - with vacuum valve - 18809 180 degree dome (could reuse it but i think I will let it go) - 37303 N100 to N120 35.5mm port adapter - extension ring Lens I have optionally is the Sony 16-35 f/2.8 - i can get 780stg from MPB for that (they charge almost 1200stg for 2nd hand excellent) Thanks in advance!

Paul Colley is the author ... (alex gives a forward)

did u put this underwater? if yes what ports?

currently researching the same question but for the A7R2 => A7R4 good angel says master what you have first... bad angel well u know what it says

@TimG running an intro to underwater photography course for some local irish divers next month - will promote this site for sure!

Subscribed and consuming already. I always liked your videos with adam... But looking forward to your new thing. I predict it will cost me monies tho....