Fabian

Not yet, but the wifi wasn't to stable on the surface already, so I don't think it will make it trough 50cm of water. Maybe worth a try for remote contoled splitshots.

Thanks all. I'm playing around with usb control on the surface, so far the best solution seems the Sony desktop software. Remaining pain point is quickly setting focus point and then triggering. If I get that fixed, I'll move on to finding a waterproof cable connection.

Hi all, My challenge are the shy fish in rivers nearby, so I thought why not place the camera on a tripod, pull a USB cable to my laptop (or phone), control it from there. Additionally, I would not need to worry about battery levels in camera. Now surprisingly, I couldn't find a bulkhead (M24 or M16) to run that cable, all I found are remote controls for the shutter, which seems a bit too much 2010, not 2025. Did anyone build something like this from of the shelf parts? If so, which parts, and how long can the cable be without issues in signal transmission? Longest I found is 5m (4.9mm diameter), that could be a bit short, I was hoping for 10m (there are boosted extension cables, but not waterproof, but that should work). Thanks!

Dang! That picture from the retra page explains a lot! I had the small hood mounted and the rotating shade positioned towards the lens, but I'm probably never going to shoot without diffusors again. I'll have to buy diffusors again (lost one of them), or I move towards other strobes anyways (I'd prefer a bit quicker recycling time, so maybe Backscatter HF-1). Correct, not an apples to apples comparison, it was rig-against-rig, more of an "let's see how you are doing this while underwater". The dome I've been using is a Zen 230mm, but I have the same issue with the Nauticam 140mm.

Hi everyone, question to those that have been shooting multiple strobes in wide angle photography. Do you see a tendency, that some strobe models tend to produce flare more easily on the sides of the image compared to others? During a recent dive, I compared my strobe positioning (2x Inons Z330, shooting a Canon 8-15mm with 2x TC @16mm) with the positioning of a buddy (2x Seacam Seaflash 160d, shooting a Tokina 10-17 @10mm). I had to pull my strobes significantly further back and I can still see flare. The difference I guess is more curvature in the Inons glass compared to the Seacams, but that is pure speculation. Maybe someone else can share his or hers experience in that regard? Thanks!

Reducing the price to 370€

Selling my Inon 45° Viewfinder for Nauticam, had it on my Sony A7IV housing. Condition: technically flawless, outside has some signs of use, nothing serious. Got some adapters with the viewfinder, but have no clue what they are for 😅 if anyone knows, please enlighten me😇 For all questions please ask, and if you're worried about buying stuff online, we can have a whatsapp video call for verification that both the viewfinder and me are real. Price: 390€ or best offer. Located in Germany, shipping worldwide as long as you pay the shipping. Payment: PayPal Friends or PayPal with buyer protection (buyer adds the fees), bank transfer, cash upon collection. No returns or warranty.

I'm glad I'm not the only one with this impression of the pricing. I'd certainly be willing to pay for it*, but yeah, the effort went in during the astro photography plugin development, they now probably trained the same AI with a different set of pictures. So I'd be willing to pay the same as for the astro plugins. *if it works with my older PS version, going to try this

What do you guys think about the pricing?Looking at the price: might be fair from a time saving perspective, but comparing it to star removal plug-ins for astrophotography, I feel it's a bit of overcharging. Haven't tried it yet (probably next weekend), and still need to figure out how to implement it in my workflow. I use capture one to edit and organize my pictures, only export lower resolution pictures to my NAS to have them available on my phone. I only open photoshop for object removal/serious work on backscatter removal for pictures I want to have in high res for printing/selling... if that would be a capture one plug-in...

Hi all, Guys, I (almost) did it. I tagged all 4500 pictures from my Philippines trip in April/May with the names of the species photographed. Almost: four pictures of two species are missing 🥴. 1) I found this critter while diving in Bohol, looks a bit like an orang utan crab and a hairy shrimp had a really good time together. If I recall correctly, this little guy was about 2cm (plus minus a lot? 🙈). I managed to take three pictures (photographically I'm not really happy with the perspective, but hope they allow identification) before he decided to hide. 2) Some kind of box crab maybe? All pictures taken with Sony 90mm / A7IV, Backscatter MF1+OS1. No editing done. If higher resolution would help, let me know and I'll upload it somewhere at 100% res and link it. All help in identifying those little crabs is highly appreciated! 🙏🙏🙏 Best, Fabian

Hi all, I'm getting a bit bored with most local lakes, so I started looking into the small streams around here. I struggle a bit with water clarity, although from outside it looks gin clear, underwater it's rarely more than 1.5-2m. Does anyone have some inspiration for this kind of photography? Appreciate all links, Instagram accounts and so on! Thanks, Fabian

Asking @Gudge might help? 🙂

Would be amazing if we could get something like this as well for other port sizes (e.g.140mm, 230mm) 😇

Guys, stop it... my bank account can't take this anymore!

Kudos to @ErikaNydaria, thank you for the domeport. Can absolutely recommend her as a seller!

Looking forward to some test shots! 😉

Sure, here you go. For those that not read the entire thread but only this post: open link, right click on image, open image in new tab -> zoom to 100% https://www.directupload.eu/file/u/80408/pras4rij_jpg.htm ISO 400, F8, 1/60s, 15mm (taken in shallow water but with little ambient light). Port setup as suggested by Nauticam in the port chart for the 140mm. Picture is edited in Capture One, but sharpness is only increased minimal. For comparison, the pike should be a similar distance as the sponges (if I remember correctly, but not sure with the thousands of pics on my drive, I could be wrong) No, I didn't, and as the 1.4x is shorter, it would require a different extension. I'd be happy to make test shots underwater with both setups, but it would require me a different extension (N120 20mm) and the 1.4x TC. If someone has both and is living somewhere in Baden-Württemberg (or willing to dive there 😄) , we can maybe arrange a day to take some proper test shots.

For a 100% crop: open the links, right click on image, select "open image in new tab" and then you should be able to see it in full resolution.

I'm happy with the results (still processing images from my last trip, but looked at a few to judge), just quickly exported 4 semi-processed images. There where not many situations that required the 30mm end (rarley shy animals), but hope this helps to get an impression of the quality: 16mm, F18, ISO100, 1/250s: https://www.directupload.eu/file/u/80408/yubehf35_jpg.htm 16mm, F13, ISO200, 1/100s: https://www.directupload.eu/file/u/80408/mq74kc3y_jpg.htm 30mm, F14, ISO100, 1/160s: https://www.directupload.eu/file/u/80408/yazmhih2_jpg.htm 16mm, F16, ISO100, 1/250s: https://www.directupload.eu/file/u/80408/wnzdo499_jpg.htm My conclusion: Sharpness is fine for me. Yes, the Canon 8-15mm without the TC is a bit sharper. I only see it at 100% zoom on a 4k screen, so what... Corners are also fine for me. In some images they are really mushy, but as this is only in some, I suspect this to be mainly due to DOF. One thing to mention is the light, so despite using similar appertures, I need to increase the ISO a bit compared to shooting without the TC. The increased zoom range (16-30mm) is definatly worth it, considering the price (< 1000€ additionally to the rest of the setup). In case someone needs some numbers to judge, I did a quick FOV caluclation (might not be perfect, just used the equations I found online), ignoring extension tube effects: Focal length FOV vertical FOV horizontal FOV diagonal 30 46 70 85 16 88 137 170 15 94 147 180 8 180 180 180

Nauticam Sony A6500 housing (NA17417) with 2 third party powerbanks and USB cable for use in the housing (to combat the A6500's power hunger), Nauticam M16 vacuum valve II (NA25625) installed, also included is the travel bag for the housing and a few spares. Asking price: 1400€ (2674€ new + batteries, which I can't remember exactly how much they cost, so in total probably just over 2700€) or best offer. Remark: In the pictures the N85 Macro Port 40 (NA36228) is still mounted but is already sold! Condition: very good, we can have a video call where I show you the details. Shipping is no problem (I'm based in southern Germany). Payment via PayPal, PayPal with buyer protection (if the buyer pays the fees), cash on collection, bank transfer. Private sale, no warranty or return.

Not exactly what @boduoguo asked, but this might be of some help:

Great pictures! I really like the background of the pipefish, gives it an artistic/abstract touch.

Yes, considering what I've spent, I'm happy. Quality is good enough for me, although it is a bit better without TC, and the versatility is greatly improved. Plus, I can use this TC topside as my longer lenses are Sonys.

And one more thing: just realized, if you open the links above, the pics still are not full res. Right click on picture, select "open in new tab", and then you can look at it in 100% resolution.