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RVBldr

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  1. Unfortunately, I think we tend to draw a very large box around the GenAI term and there's certainly workflow acceleration aspects without wholesale manipulation or creation of an image. Maybe it's just backscatter reduction, mask application, or other tasks that may not involve large changes.
  2. Was just there two weeks ago, south islands up to Darwin. The only restriction was use of strobes with seahorses. Other than that, no issues.
  3. As Dave mentioned, a snoot works great, but takes practice. I shoot a Sony A7C, so sync speed is a relatively low 1/160, but here in Seattle, that's usually enough. It's usually good enough to get the majority of the background black, but a little clean-up of the usual silt particles may be necessary. I'm also in the camp of not moving the nudis, they are just way too fragile.
  4. I know, not explicitly photography related, but thought I'd give this a shot. Found a decent dive computer in Galapagos recently. If anyone knows anyone who may have lost one, DM me with some details on where it was lost and computer details. Jim
  5. But where does that end? No adjustments of any kind in LR? No exposure, cropping, white balance, saturation/vibrance, clarity, etc? I know some locations make it easy, but here in the more dark and green temperate waters, silt and junk in the water is just a way of life for us. I think there's a somewhat fuzzy line between the provided tools in LR and some of the more powerful generative fills/removals that are also available.
  6. RVBldr posted a listing in in Marketplace Other / Accessories
    For Sale $150.00 Redmond, WA, USA

    I have a Marelux SOFT snoot V1.0 for sale. Very little in-water use and works as advertised (spotting light and beam control) with case and never floo…

  7. Been using my Sony A7C, 90mm/MFO-3 (on a flip) for a while now and it's now my go-to for most Puget Sound diving. This very small (<.24") slug larva was shot off Kona on Blackwater, but, it will also take a nice mid-wide shot like this medium-sized GPO taken from about 18" away (Octo has taken up residence in an old piling log). Overall, it's a pretty versatile diopter.
  8. Easy enough to just take a snip and copy into Google Image search. Generally, it's pretty successful and very easy workflow. I just add a key word in Lightroom and tag as needed.
  9. Here ya go Dave: MF-2 and 3 Quick Disconnect Connector - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
  10. Still working out some minor issues so I haven't yet uploaded the STL file for this MF-2/3 adapter. I was looking for a quick disconnect for the MF-2 strobe so I can easily hand off to a guide for macro work. Kraken has a nice QD adapter, but it requires an additional clamp. Being retired, I figured there was a better way, so after about 10 iterations, I think I have a nice solution, tested recently in Bali. It's a simple push and turn to connect/disconnect. If there's intereste, I'll get this loaded up to MakerWorld.
  11. I have both CMC-1 and 2 and use with the 28-60; they work great. Haven't tried the SMC yet as I find the CMCs don't work very well on the 90mm. Hopefully someone has some feedback as I'm in the same boat.
  12. I'm finding the newer LR/PS tools are pretty good for some of this work, but only if you're not opposed to the subscription model.
  13. LOL. That's my model upload. Yes, you'll need the locking mechanism or download one for use. I used the one from the OEM gear and it works well. I found the OEM gear that used the zoom knob on the 100-120 adapter was a bit clunky and not very smooth as the gears are aligned at 90-degrees, I extended the gear to use the zoom gear in the housing which is linearly aligned and much smoother in operation. Additionally, you can install the entire camera/lens assembly without assembling from both the front and rear.
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