Posts posted by Tino Dietsche
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Hello everyone,
I've put three more 3D printed parts online. Maybe some of you can use some of them.
Strobe arm holder for IKEA Skadis pegboard for some float-arms up to 8cm diameter
Transport case for two longer 18650 cells with length around 69mm maximal 19mm diameter
Tested with three different cells used in BigBlue dive lights (3000mAh 3.7V green - 2600mAh 3.7V blue and grey).
For the Nitecore NL1335HP used in the Backscatter MF-1, there is a separate version of the housing because the cells have a smaller radius. Battery Case - 2x NITECORE NL1835HP
Some other Cases on the web for 18650 are to short for cells like that one that are use as example for BigBlue Lights.
I hope these parts help someone.Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino-
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9 minutes ago, Floris Bennema said:
On Amazon I only found larger adapters. I stripped one to dimish it's size, and gave up. Especially in the Olympus M5 ii there is little room. I'll try the aliexpress adapters now.
How much space do you have in the case for the connector? I can look for my documents if you like. My solution also worked in an RX100 case where there was hardly any space.
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2 hours ago, Barmaglot said:
Why not just use an adapter? For example https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005996269495.html
Today I would definitely do it with an adapter like this. When I built my version, USB-C wasn't really widespread and all the Sony cameras I had used Micro-USB.
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Hello everyone,
The Micro-USB interface is still an issue here. A few years ago I created a cable solution like this for myself and a few other people because the battery in the second generation of the Sony A7 series was pretty weak. I had a version for the Sony A7 series and also for the RX100. In each case as a pure charging option or also to load the data from the camera. I used S6 flash sockets as a base and I soldered the corresponding USB plugs etc. myself.
With a little skill, you can create such a solution yourself. The connectors needed for soldering are available online for little money.Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino
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Hello everyone,
My action cam mount for the Suunto EON Core is now online available.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1145796#profileId-1149026
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Hello everyone,
Over the last few weeks I have created new parts for underwater photography for the 3D printer, perhaps one or two of you can use some of them. This time they are parts that are intended to bring some order to my equipment.
Plus an action cam mount for the long clamps from CarbonArm.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1097520#profileId-1092187
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1140747#profileId-1143074
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1079054#profileId-1070448
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino-
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Hello everyone,
I have created another version for a mount for the EON Core to connect the computer to the setup with a 1" ball. It might be interesting for one or two people here. The whole thing could certainly be adapted to other dive computers. (I'll take a look at it when I get photos and dimensions, if I have time.)
You can find the 3D data for the 1" ball mount for the EON Core here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1069725#profileId-1059367
I will also put the cover for the EON and the version with GoPro-like support online in the next few days.
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino
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I've had my own 3D printer since the end of November last year and I'm constantly creating a few new things for my underwater photo setup.
My mount for the EON Core on my underwater housing has been updated again! Instead of attaching it to a plate with bungees, I've now created a support directly for the computer.
In addition to the version with a GoPro mount, I've also created a version with a 1" ball.
I've also created a new cover for the EON Core made of TPU.
If you are interested, I will make the relevant files available online soon.
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino
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Hello everyone,
At the end of November, after much deliberation, I bought a 3D printer and the first CAD drawings and projects for underwater photography are slowly emerging. Among other things, a holder for my flash arms for the IKEA Skadis pegboard.
Who knows, maybe someone else uses the Skadis parts and can also use my design. More parts will definitely follow.
The holder works with all common flash arms with a 1" ball. I also drew a version for arms with buoyancy, which I will definitely upload.
Underwater Strobe Arm Holder - IKEA Skadis
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino-
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3 minutes ago, fruehaufsteher2 said:
Depends on the camera-lens combination. Sony-28-60 works really well with the Nauticam-solutions made for smaller sensors (WACP-C, WWL-C). AFAIK other combinations doesn't work as well.
Thanks for the feedback. I would also use the Sony 28-60.
I'm currently using the Sony 16-35 F4 behind a 180mm dome. The combination is already weak at the edges and based on various tests and images I would have better quality and edge sharpness with the 28-60 with WWL-1 or WWL-C. Plus 130° instead of just 107°.
I already have the 28-60 here, but I haven't bought the port yet.
In that case you could choose a WWL-C instead of the WWL-1 without any problems if you got one at a good price?
What do others think about this? -
Hello everyone,
Since this is about the WWL-C and it is used here together with various full-format cameras and lenses, I wanted to ask how the lens basically performs? Does anyone have any experience comparing the WWL-1?The WWL-C is basically developed for smaller sensors?
Thank you for your feedback,
Tino -
Hello everyone,
For two ideas I'm looking for "empty" M14 bulkheads with a protective cap. Does anyone have an idea where I can get something like this?
Thanks for your help,
Tino -
Hi,
I have been using a monitor housing since the end of 2020 (self-built project). I have two versions for assembly that work very well.
For macro photography, I have the monitor at the back of the housing directly in front of the camera display. So I'm in the optical axis and have no problems finding the subjects. To work close to the ground, I simply swivel the monitor upwards and can therefore work comfortably from above.
For wide angles, I place the monitor above the housing, as here the setup is, if possible, completely neutrally balanced. In addition to being able to take photos comfortably, I can also film very well and move the camera nicely in front of me.
I mounted the monitor with two clamps, which in my opinion makes it a little more flexible than just one clamp. I also tared the housing of the monitor itself so that it was as neutral and upright as possible in the water.
Hope this helps you find an optimal solution for you.
Attached are a few more pictures.
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino
Macro
Macro
Wide-Angle (Copyright by Robert Hansen)
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Power Only Version for RX100II to be able to charge the camera between two dives. The USB-C socket mentioned in the posts above is basically the same. In principle, the idea is not new.
Inside a Sony A7II Housing from Nauticam, with a cable for power and data.
The S6 Connector to the "Underwater-Powerpack" from an old flash cable.
The USB-Powerpack inside the old housing of an diving light.
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Edited by Tino Dietsche
4 hours ago, bghazzal said:Wow - I didn't know these existed - I've found a DC coupler (dummy battery) for the LX10 (link) - could this be used with an external battery pack to power the compact?
Anything giving more battery life underwater would be fantastic.
When you were working with the RX100 series, what external battery pack were you using, and how did it compare to standard batteries when shooting video?Thanks!
Ben
Hi Ben,
I don't know about your camera, the Sony cameras can be charged via USB while in use. For this reason, my solution didn't require battery dummies or anything like that. A USB connection to the USB power bank to the camera was sufficient.With the offset Connector from Nauticam, it should actually be possible. USB-Powerbank to USB-Connection in the housing or USB-Powerbank to your dummy-battery.
With a little courage you can build the whole thing yourself relatively easily. Soldering iron, the necessary cables and some time. Different things would be possible for the housing for the power bank, old diving lamp, old underwater housing...
The simplest solution is without plug connections and a permanently cast or sealed cable connection. If I prefer to have a plug so that the whole thing can be used without the extra power supply, I would use old electrical lightning cables and sockets.
I'm looking for two more pictures to illustrate the whole thing or give an idea.
Tino -
3 hours ago, bghazzal said:
Unfortunately I think it's a no-go - the NA-LX10 only has one M14 port, used by the vaccum valve.
Not sure what the flash socket is - I do have unused optical fibre holes.The only way in this case is the Nauticam Offset Connector with Vacuum Vavle.
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10 hours ago, bghazzal said:
Hi Tino - and wow!
I'm very interested in this underwater-powerpack, as battery life is not good on my compact (LX10), with which I shoot video - the camera can work powered by a slave battery, but there's no room in the housing.
Did you make this work with the RX100 Nauticam housing? if so, how did you get the cable in?
I only have on bulkhead port used for the vaccum valve, but do not use any flash - no idea how these ports work however.I did the whole thing for various Nauticam housings. RX100III, RX100IV, RX100V, Sony A7II series. It was always important to have a free M16 or M14 hole on the housing. Access to the housing is via a converted N6 flash socket.
I would be look for a few pictures in the archive and possibly make a post in the DIY section.
2 hours ago, Nikolausz said:There are few exceptions, but in my opinion, it could be a standard. The extra space requires some new designs but it would be not that much extra cost (you may correct me, I have no experience in UW housing production) and the extra power banks are also not that expensive (and can be used also above water). I like Tino's DIY solution, but it's too complicated for most, and a correct housing design would make it unnecessary.
Making the housing so much larger that there is room for an additional power supply wouldn't be complicated at all, but the bottom line is that people who travel a lot more than most probably need this. That's why it won't have any priority or benefit for the housing builders at that moment.
With newer cameras and usually much better battery performance, the topic is becoming more and more in the background.
Since I've been using the third and fourth generation Sony A7 series, for example, I haven't had the problems anymore. I'll have to see if I make some more videos again and see if it becomes an issue. If so, I will definitely build a new external power supply. -
Hello everyone,
I also had the problem with too little battery power a few years ago with the Sony A7II series. This annoyed me so much at the time that I built an underwater power supply myself. The whole thing consisted of S6 flash sockets, an old S6 flash cable, and an old diving lamp. The lamp body served as a housing for a USB power pack and also carried my dive computer.
I was also able to transfer the images to the computer or an iPad during two dives via the S6 socket and charge the battery without losing the vacuum in the housing. Everything was completely sealed.
I even made a few different versions of the “Surface Interval Cable” for the Sony A7 series and RX100 housings, some of which are still in use today. Partly just to charge the camera between two dives, i.e. only with power and partly with power and data.
With newer cameras and USB-C, such a part would be relatively simple and easy to build.
Greetings from Lake Constance,
Tino
on land
In the water with the "Underwater-Powerback"
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Hello everyone,
I just saw that I didn't even include the final price in the post. So here is the current price:
CHF 1550.------------------------------
Hallo Zusammen,
Habe gerade gesehen dass ich den finalen Preis gar nicht im Post drin hatte. Deshalb hier der aktuelle Preis:
CHF 1550.-
Gruss Tino
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I recently took a quick look at the monitor housing at a specialist dealer. It was still a test device from the manufacturer and the specialist dealer was very satisfied. Unfortunately there were no batteries in the device at the moment, so I didn't see the functions myself.
However, the part is relatively compact and makes a very high-quality impression. The HDMI cables are also pretty well solved; there are various adapters for the housing. The specialist dealer had the monitor on a Nauticam A7CR housing and there were no problems with the space for the cabling.
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino
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Hello Rick,
Unfortunately, I can't help with any experience with the SeaLink Kit. I actually wanted to try it out, but haven't managed it yet.The idea behind it is certainly a good one, especially because the DiveFolk housing makes it possible to work with any app and there are no restrictions.
I'm just not sure how reliable the connection actually is in water, but you really have to test it carefully.
The topic is very current for me at the moment, I have a monitor housing (self-made project), but since things started going wrong again with certain apps, I've been thinking about a new monitor housing project. Especially with the newer Sony cameras, the connection to apps like Monitor +, Cascable or Sony's own Creators's app via USB-C would be very exciting.
The dream at that moment would be a smartphone housing like DiveFolk has, but with an M14 or M16 socket...Let's see how committed I am to the idea and the project in the coming time or whether I can find a way to operate a smartphone in a self-made housing that is sufficient.
When it comes to attaching the monitor housing to the housing, a bracket as mentioned by Barmaglot is certainly a possible variant. I have mounted an additional ball on my housing on which I have a 3-pin clamp. From there I go backwards with a short arm and have the monitor directly at the back of the housing. When I'm using a wide angle lens, I turn the monitor up over the housing.
Greetings Tino
Proven 3D printed Parts For Underwater Imaging
in Tutorials, How-Tos, DIY
Hello everyone,
Since my used Nauticam WWL-1 lens didn't come with a back cap, I made a suitable one. It also works for the bayonet mount. I hope someone can use this.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1346497-rear-cover-for-nauticam-wwl-1-bajonet-mount#profileId-1388138
Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino