Chris Ross

The thread mentioned is an imperial thread size 1"14 TPI is ANF 1", 1"UNF it seems is 12 TPI.  So it's a finer thread than UNF.  Compared to M24 x 1 the pitch is coarser however.  The pitch is the distance between consecutive peaks on the thread, the M24 x 1 is 1mm pitch and the !"x 14 the pitch is 1.8mm. 

Be interested to see what makes the Aquatica thread more reliable?

Good to see we found a solution.

11 hours ago, Bradley said:

Hello everyone,

 

I have tried numurous facebook groups, websites, ebay to find Ikelite part 5510.11. Ikelite has discontinued the part but all the fisheye lenses use this extension part in the Ikelite housing. I know https://uwcamerastuff.com/ makes them per order but i have been trying to get in contact with them with no succes so far. So maybe some of you guys has this part laying around somewhere and doesnt need it anymore and is willing to sell. That would be amazing. Hope to hear from you!

I'm assuming that you need this for an older fourlock housing which Ikelite doesn't support anymore?  A couple of options, first post here in the classifieds with a wanted to buy.  If you don't succeed there you may need to get one custom made.  Saga does custom work and may be able to help.  There are probably some others around,  The fact the adapter is threaded makes it a little more complicated.  BTW there's one on Ebay now but it comes with a 5DMkIV housing and looks like one in Australia too on a a facebook group.

According to the manual if it is lit orange it means ready to fire in pre-flash manual mode.  So you are saying it stayed orange and did not change to other colours when you turned the dial?

You could try the reset sequence in this link:

https://scubaboard.com/community/threads/sea-sea-ys-d2-strobe-failure.577325/post-8607810

It will likely change the custom mode to factory default, but might get you going again?

On 4/7/2025 at 6:11 PM, TimG said:

Thanks Chris. Do you know if it’s the DG or DGX model? I think the Pro 300 has one or other of those designations. 

Hi Tim, I've confirmed the full description is:

1.4x TELEPLUS PRO 300 N-AFd DG

I'm also informed it was previously used on a D500 with a 10-17.  Now being used on a Z8 with an 8-15.

5 hours ago, Kraken de Mabini said:

Hi Chris:  It is an old standard size G Canon, not a compact.  Maybe I should take the camera and housing to my local camera dealer, for them to suggest a lens. Thank you for suggesting a close up diopter. 

Sorry, still not sure which camera you are referring to, the only Canon G cameras I am aware of is the G series compacts like to G16.   Is it an EOS DSLR?  Full frame or APS_C?  this will all impact what lens to choose.

3 hours ago, Tom Kline said:

I did not want to speculate above but one possibility is gas expansion in the battery compartment pushing the o-ring in the wrong direction. BTW when I take a pressure reading of my housing using the Backscatter model housing sucker part (there is a gauge on it), the vacuum reading tends be lower (!) after use in local water (local mean water temp measured by a graduate student is 5°C). Housing is still cold; it takes hours to warm up at room temp.

Whether or not an o-ring can withstand reverse pressure depends upon the design of the o-ring groove.  A surface o-ring like used in Ikelite and the Nauticam housings  with removable backs cannot as they rely upon the external pressure pushing the housing back into contact with the o-ring.  A piston o-ring such as INON caps or the HF-1 should be fine

Lubrication can also be an issue on clamshell and piston style o-rings.  The o-ring needs to be able to slide back and forth in its groove to press up against the sealing surfaces and form the seal.  If the o-ring hangs up up it might prevent the seal from forming.  I note with my Z-240 strobes I apply a very thin layer of  lube to the cap inside surface and it screws on very easily.  When I come to remove the the cap it is often quite tight, like as if the lubricant has washed away.  If you had internal pressure the o-ring would need to move.  Internal pressure is relative - you could have higher internal pressure from taking your strobe to a higher altitude.  Having said that I often leave the batteries in for extended periods after a dive particularly if I only do one dive.   So far I've been fine.

3 hours ago, Tom Kline said:

Aquatica as well as Ikelite use inch sized bulkheads. Mostly likely because the tools for inch sizes are more available (and cheaper) in this part of the world. Certainly easier to find locally in hardware stores, e.g. taps to thread the holes.

Some of the newer housings label the bulkhead ports as M16 and this one is claimed to be a special M24 but I'm not sure exactly which thread it is the stated diameter doesn't match major or minor diameters for metric or UNC threads. 

2 hours ago, TmxDiver said:

 

Why not dive San Diego?! There is some amazing diving here. 🙂

 

- brett

 

I've only dived there the once, however there is a lot to see around the kelp on the offshore islands, waters a little cooler of course but a drysuit will atke care of that. 

Sorry to hear about the flood, but good the strobe appeared to survive.  I can see a maybe 3 possible leak sources, the general integrity of the cap,  the pressure relief valve in the cap and the o-rings themselves.

This strobe has an additional o-ring sometimes called a sand seal that the strobe cap contacts when installed.  I have one of these on my INON torch and my experience is there is no water entry past that o-ring, so that I don't get sand/grit on the o-rings and there are never any water droplets.  My INON Z240 strobes always have water drops on the o-rings in contrast.  Did you happen to check for water droplets on your o-rings?

For the other two entry points, I'm wondering if it might be worthwhile to get a new cap as a precaution? 

3 hours ago, Kraken de Mabini said:

Hi, I have a Canon G camera with housing, but no lens. Which lens would you recommend to photo

nudibranchs and small fish? Thank you.

Are you talking about a Canon compact G series camera and asking about a closeup diopter to use with it?

3 hours ago, Dave_Hicks said:

No, i was mistaken. The MFO does have a front thread. Maybe it's meant for a filter or something?

Thanks Dave,  in any case the video mentions they shouldn't be stacked.  If people are interested to rty they could perhaps add an ordinary diopter (not a Nauticam one) which doesn't have the correction built in.  If you already have a another diopter it would be simple to try it out.

There is also this: 

You can see in the image the MFO (yellow band ) appears to have a thread, however as @Dave Hicks mentions his doesn't have one.  I expect the image shows a prototype version.  The discussion in the video mentions the reason they are not stacked.

7 minutes ago, Davide DB said:

I was looking at my buddy's GH5 Aquatica housing. It has a threaded hole and a bulkhead with an external M16 thread 

 

 

Yes, some of them come with M16 holes and at least one model has M16 and 1/2"holes, the M24 one is a bit inusual though it seems.

This link indicates it is an M24 "special thread" which may mean it is not the standard M24 thread , this is for an M24 bulkhead from Dive n See made for Aquatica:

https://diveandsee.com/dnc-2119-full-hdmi-uwater-bulkhead-connector-m24-for-aquatica-a7siii/?srsltid=AfmBOoqb6-w77efZerGDDu7oTbm1T6pQshyTQWMT2oCn0UcObHbBEN5D

I had a look at an M24- M16 adapter that I have from Nauticam and it appears to be an M24 x 1 thread this means the thread pitch is 1.0mm.  It could be that the Aquatica one is M24 x 2mm - a coarser thread?  They state it is a 23.75mm opening which doesn't seem to match up with the diameters of any of the M24 threads.  You can measure the threads with a thread gauge but most people won't have access to these and less they can get assistance from a machine shop.

You really need the exact specification of the thread so that it matches your housing and this doesn't appear to be listed online anywhere so asking Aquatica is a good plan.

6 hours ago, dvleemin said:

Hi,

I have a complete new setup, and was in the process of setting up the strobes when I ran into an issue.  

 

The instructions manual for the strobes have pretty clear directions on how to set them up based on the camera:  https://www.backscatter.com/images/article/content/Sea&Sea-YS-D3-Duo-Manual.pdf

Page 44 for my R5 says the Optical Input setting should be set to mode 28.

But when I follow the instructions on page 32 it always flashes red.  And the manual says:  "If the light turns red, the setting has failed.  Please try the setting again.".  Which is less than helpful.

Both strobes have exactly the same behaviour.  So I'm completely confused . . . 

The strobes fire fine when connected to the camera housing . . . 

Anyone else have luck setting up these strobes?

Setup:

Canon R5
Isotta Housing
Dual YS-D3 Duo strobes.

Thanks,

Darryl

 

There's two steps in the setup process, first is to get it into setting mode which shows a blue  light once achieved and the second step is to apply the setting which should be followed by a blue light and buzzer.  Do you get the blue light initially?  Secondly to confirm, you are talking about the settings to be changed on page E-32.  Did you make any setting changes as outlined on page E-31?

I would also ask which trigger are you using and if you have tried using the strobe at it's default setting?

If they still prove problematic on your trip you might try taping the plugs for a tighter fit? 

5 minutes ago, vkalia said:

Thanks, folks. 
 

Stride&Stroke has Sea&Sea cables (thanks @Barmaglot for that name) and as per S&S’s website, those are 613 cables. 
 

Those should work, right?  Someone I know is coming to Malapascua tomorrow and bring it for me, if it does.  

 

I think S&S cables should be fine, S&S strobes after all used to need the very best cables to trigger reliably, so their cables should be good.

Hi Tim,  spoke to Don Silcock who is using one on a Z8 camera with the Nkon 8-15 and his is a "1.4 Teleplus Pro 300" model.

Nauticam cables will be good as will INON cables if you can find something.  If you can't find anything see if there is an electronics store somewhere and pick up a couple of Toslink cables.  The square ends of the cable will fit in a Sea and Sea fibre port if you round off the corners a little bit.  Probably not quite a secure as the original but I found they worked.  Just make sure you secure them to an arm so they can't float off if the ends disengage while you are not looking. 

I'm not sure I understand the issue with the bulkhead, does the little rim around the M16 holes prevent you screwing it all the way in.  One option might be an M24-M16 adapter if you find one compatable with the M24 hole and the bulkhead.

Otherwise you could use the inbuilt fibre optic ports of the housing for one strobe as a stop gap until you could get a suitable adapter to use the bulkhead or perhaps you could get a twin LED cable to route to the two fibre optic ports built into the housing.

The thing to be aware of regarding housing sizes is that Nauticam designed the mirrorless housings so that the EF-RF adapter ( or the FTZ for Nikon) sits inside the housing with the adapter flange at the same position as the EF-camera flange.  This means that the EF lenses use the same ports and extensions and zoom gears as they did with the DSLR housings.  This means the housings are bigger from front to back. 

Marelux never made DSLR housings so was free to design from scratch on housing size. 

I would also mention that Isotta makes particularly compact housings, I a diver who got the Nikon Z6 housing rather than Nauticam because the overall package was so much smaller and lighter.

Regarding the WWL-1B, this thread discusses WWL on other systems:

The MFO/SMC are m67 and are covered in the thread as well.

The answer was that both SMC and MFO correct for the air water interface across the port.  If you used both you would have double correction, which would reduce image quality.

Ikelite is made in USA as far as  I know.  probably quite a few imported bits and pieces in the mix I would guess.

1 hour ago, Nemrod said:

I am sorry I have caused an argument. The sTTL mode when selected overrides the "bastard" switch /ACC cancel switch. The switch does nothing in sTTL (ACC) mode. When the strobe mode is selected to Manual mode the now active ACC switch must be properly selected for pre-flash or no pre-flash expected. The ACC switch does not select between two types of sTTL, one ACC and one not, but both utilizing the pre-flash for exposure control when the strobe is in sTTL mode. 

OK I just dug out the manual and read it again and it made my brain hurt but, yes it (ACC) works in manual mode and switches off in TTL mode.  The INON strobe magnifies the pre-flash so the camera puts out a lower power main flash.  The fact that they have two manual modes now means either they have given up on ACC and have regular flash cancel or the ACC bastard switch has been combined into one of the manual modes.

7 minutes ago, Nemrod said:

 

Thank you for that explanation. I never could see that with several compacts I have tried with my  Inon strobes. 

 

 I had a film SLR that had off the film real time flash exposure, or at least I was thinking it did. But digital as you say, I cannot think of any. All digital use a pre-flash approach to strobe exposure.

 

I think, as you suggest, that the two positions on the mode dial are possibly then ACC-sTTL/sTTL and thus no longer a need for the switch and again explains why there are a correspondingly two Manual modes?

I think it may be more like the existing S-TTL and S-TTL low which are there on the current dials of Z240 and Z330,  I can't see a reason for switching off ACC unless it doesn't work well with some cameras.  The fact the ACC switch has gone and been replaced by two manual modes suggests a regular manual mode and one which ignores the pre-flash.