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Canon 20D

Started by alcina ·

  • 14Posts
  • 14Replies

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Canon 20D

14 posts
  1. This is my first DSLR set up and I am excited to start using it. I haven't had much time to really look things over too much yet; I did take some land shots, but most of them were in one of the auto-type modes as I was handing the camera off repeatedly and I hadn't had time to learn much before I started.

     

    I am hoping to get out for my first dives later this week/weekend, but have no real idea on where to start with getting the most from my camera. I guess I kind of thought to start I would just take it as is, but have come across some ideas of resetting various buttons and the pattern.

     

    I intend to use my 100 macro first up. I have a Subal housing.

     

    I would appreciate any tips on where to start in customising my camera to start getting the most out of it.

  2. HI Alcina,

     

    There is a thread at * thread that talks about the * button found on Canons. You may find that of interest

     

    Personally i haven't really done any customizing that i can think of, i shoot on full manual and always use the "full" button on the macro lenses to get the most variety from them.

     

    I think you shoot on full manual with your 5050? Everything should be pretty much the same...except you will be able to shoot much quicker! :blink:

     

    Hopefully some Canon types will chime in

  3. If you're used to shooting with the 5050, the biggest adjustment is looking through the viewfinder. Before jumping in, play around with looking through the viewfinder with the camera in the housing and your mask on. If don't already have a low volume mask, consider getting one. That makes a big difference.

     

     

    It doesn't take long to get use to not having shutter lag. :blink:

  4. With the bigger sensor on the d20 compared to a point and shoot you will have more DOF issues shooting macro.

     

    The 100 2.8 will need to be set to a small apeture to ensure you have enough DOF.

     

    The 100 2.8 on my 10D is also a challenge to focus under low contrast or low light with small apetures. The discussion on using the customer function button that seperates auto focus from shutter release by using the '*' buttom might be helpful later on.

     

     

    I also adjusted the time the picture stays on the LCD to be longer so I do not have to push the review button as much but I have large dry gloves on when diving in colder water.

     

    Good luck with your purchase.

  5. Hi Alcina, here are a few tips:

     

    1) On manual set speed to 1/100 or higher to avoid motion blur (1/focal length, 100 in your case). You can experiment with 1/60, that's the beauty of digital, no film to waste.

     

    2) For macro shots set the aperture at f/11 or higher, if you go wider than this DOF will be very shallow and you will have a hard time getting your subject in focus. For super macro (1:1 or close to it) set the aperture at f/22 or smaller.

     

    3) Begin with high contrast, well lit subjects to get used to autofocus speed and accuracy. Low contrast subjects are hard to precisely autofocus on, but you will get the hang of it (like autofocus on edges and recomposing).

     

    Give us some more info! Do you have one or two strobes? What type? What I do with my 105 is go down with it set at f/11 and my two Ikelite 200 at half power for general fish shots. As I move closer and start photographing smaller subjects I close the aperture to f/22 and smaller, keeping the strobe power on 1/2.

     

    I hope this helps!

     

    Luiz

  6. Good advice so far from all sides.

     

    I shoot this lens a lot using my camera, and my wife's 20D. It has good enough autofocus for use during the day. If you have a manual focus port for your subal, you can use something that 1/2 way between autofocus and manual - the * button.

     

    Set Custom Function 4 to setting 3 (I'm pretty sure that's it)

    Leave the lens in autofocus, but fitted with a MF gear.

    Use the * button as your autofocus button. When you push it the camera will try to focus, whe it get's focus, trip the shutter.

    If it doesn't get focus, just let go of the * button and use the MF knob on your Subal housing.

     

    Some setup tips:

     

    Set the camera to ISO100

    Set Shutter at 1/180th or so. Don't go about 1/320th speed

    Start with F8 or F11 for fish photos and F16 or F22 for closeup macro.

    Position your strobes near the end of your port, but to the side.

     

    HTH

    James

  7. Hi Alcina,

     

    I just took the 20D out for it's first run in British Columbia.

     

    The advice above is good.

     

    I usually start around 1/160 and F16 leaving the lens on AF. iso 100

     

    I always have a focus light as anything recessed will most likely need it for proper AF. Always worth having on the rig as you just don't know when it might get finicky about the light it needs for AF.

     

    Not sure on the custom 4 set to 3 but I think that is the * button setting. As said there is a thread on this and you should give it a read. I did not use it on the first outing. You will find the viewfinder vs LCD a little different at first but, you will eventually not even notice.

     

    I shoot the Aquatica but Canuck (Going to La Paz) just started with the Subal. If you have any questions feel free to email or Pm me also.

     

    Enjoy, I love the camera!

     

    Todd

  8. Thanks for the idea so far, Everyone!

     

    Luiz, I have only a single Inon 220s at this time. A second strobe will be added, but for now I'm going to work with what I have.

     

    You know, I was sure I was gettiing the port for the 100 that allowed manual focus but I've just pulled it out of the wrapping and I don't see anything that looks like I can???

  9. Oh dear - the port should have a black and red knob on the front. You don't need a gear, it's built into the port.

     

    And your strobe - I'm not sure, but I think I recall that the 220s does not have a socket to connect an electrical sync cord. That's not good. If you can't connect a cord from the Ikelite housing to the strobe, I'm not sure how you'll be able to get it to fire. The Inon Z220 can be used with a special Ikelite to Inon sync cord.

     

    Cheers

    James

  10. oK, this is not sounding good. Damn that hurricane that hit FL! I need to talk to Ryan.

     

    He sent me the Nikonos cords for the strobe...BTW I am using Subal and not Ike? It looks like if I take the little screwed on knob off the Inon there is a five pin connector underneath...I assume it should work?

    Edited by alcina
  11. Damn that hurricane that hit FL!  I need to talk to Ryan.

     

    Ah... So that's why he is not answering my messages :blink: . I hope everything is ok! I heard many areas in S florida still have no power.

  12. And your strobe - I'm not sure, but I think I recall that the 220s does not have a socket to connect an electrical sync cord.  That's not good.  If you can't connect a cord from the Ikelite housing to the strobe, I'm not sure how you'll be able to get it to fire.  The Inon Z220 can be used with a special Ikelite to Inon sync cord.

     

     

    The Z-220s is a Z-220 minus the spotting light and laser. It'll be fine. The ones without an electrical trigger connection are the Dxxxx series.

    Edited by herbko
  13. He sent me the Nikonos cords for the strobe...BTW I am using Subal and not Ike?  It looks like if I take the little screwed on knob off the Inon there is a five pin connector underneath...I assume it should work?

     

     

    A standard 5 pin Nikonos sync cord will work.

  14. Good news! Thanks for bailing me out of my hole there w/ the strobe Herb.

     

    Alcina: Ah, a Subal housing! I read Ikelite in another housing - and I confuse easily...

     

    Check for a focus gear that mounts on your lens. It could/may mesh up with a knob/gear in the housing. I wish I could be more helpful, but I'm not too familiar w/ Subal housings.

     

    Cheers

    James

Keldan

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