Hot to use 100A with D70?

I had my first test dive with D70 this weekend. Ikelite housing (non-TTL version), a pair of 100A strobes (one on sync cord the other on slave sensor) and 10.5 fisheye.

I had a problem trying to make close focus wide angle shots.

Both strobes were at 1/2 power and as far back as arms allowed, ISO 200. I had to stop down to f/22 to get correct exposure of my test subject. My main subject was fine, but backgroud way to dark. So I am looking for a way to reduce strobes power so that I could open apperture to say f/8 and record some ambient light at the background at a reasonable shutter speed.

What are my options?

Is there a diffuser for 100A avaliable (could not find it on ikelite site) or am I stuck with trying to manufacture my own?

Is there a manual controller for 100A? I understand that the current one works ONLY with DS series strobes.

Maybe I should replace one strobe with DS-50 or DS-125. I assume the other 100A on slave would mimic what DS strobe does. I'd like to keep expenses on that low if possible.

Try attaching opaque plastic bags or 'bubble' freight packaging over the front of the strobe.

Let me know how it goes!

Simon

You can also try to point the strobes out, instead of aiming them to the center of the frame.

As far as I know, there is no way to have the 100A mimic what the DS strobe does.

Thanks for the advice.

Simon,

I'll try that. It will not cost me a fortune

Rocha,

I meant: I would use DS strobe on sync cord with manual controller and 100A on slave i A mode. I was hoping 100A would see what DS does and start/stop accordingly. DS on manual does not pre-flash, right?

What would stop 100A from working this way?

Andrzej

Does your 100A have a slave mode? Mine doesn't! But your line of thought is correct, if the DS doesn't do anything funny.

Now, I find your overexposures very strange. I did all wide angle photos here:

http://luizrocha.com/Belize/index3.html

With the 10.5 and two Ikelite SS200 (more powerful than the 100a) always in half power, sometimes in full power. My apertures were between f8 and f11 and none of the photos is overexposed.

Luiz

Luiz: you can buy an external battery powered slave sensor for the Ikes. 100a is firing when it sees the preflash from the DS strobe, which is messing up the camera's iTTL brainwork. It sees a lot of light coming back. When the DS strobe fires the main flash, the 100a hasn't recycled yet so it doesn't fire.

Using a combo of preflash and non-preflash cabable strobes is not recommended.

James

Folks,

Andrzej says in his first post he's using a non-iTTL D70 housing. SO he has two choices, shoot all manual as he has and try and reduce output from his 100a strobes, or convert to DS strobes as James receommends.

Combining "old" technology strobes that can't "pre-flash" with new strobes is a lesson in frustration....

YMMV

dhaas

I use that external slave sensor that James mentioned.

It is strange that you had no problem with SS200 and I had it with 100A. Could it be the environment? I was shooting in a shallow pool with rather reflective bottom and walls (parts of it white).

Also, how far away were you? I had this problem when shooting really close (almost touching the subject with dome port). I had to point strobes inwards to light it.

I took some shots at ISO800 (my mistake) and then the problem was really beyond control. Than I realized what I was doing and put it back to ISO 200. It was controllable then, but at an expense of f/22.

Do you mean that DS fires w pre-flash even when used in manual mode?

What's the point of that?

I would never use it in i-TTL. I thought about replacing one of 100A with DS-125 solely to be able to turn it down to 1/8 power, not to gain i-TTL.

Sorry to confuse everyone, I thought the original poster was using an iTTL capable system.

Instead all of his flashes are acting as manual flashes, so there should be no incompatibility. 100a has 100 watt seconds of power but not many manual power settings.

You can fashion a diffuser out of a piece of milk-jug which will reduce power by 1/2 stop.

Cheers

James

It is strange that you had no problem with SS200 and I had it with 100A.  Could it be the environment?  I was shooting in a shallow pool with rather reflective bottom and walls (parts of it white). 

Also, how far away were you?  I had this problem when shooting really close (almost touching the subject with dome port).  I had to point strobes inwards to light it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think it is the environment, there is a lot of light in a shallow pool, and I am sure you will get good results with your current setup in the ocean (which is a lot darker). I was very close to the subjects too, you have to shoot it like that with the 10.5. Also, try not pointing the strobes directly inwards, aim them straight ahead instead and select a wider aperture.

Luiz

Thanks everyone. I guess I'll try with the diffuser first.

The problem is they sell milk in carton boxes instead of plastic jugs here in Poland. I need to make my daughter eat that baby milk of hers quicker, because the cap seems about right for my strobes

Andrzej

I went through my yesterdays pictures and noted that blown highlights happen constantly on right side of the frame. I checked the strobes and found that the one on the right was switched to narrower beam (85). I guess it could be part of my problem.

I had exactely the same problem (2*100A, D70): Too much power, no control on the strobes. I made some diffusers, which helped a bit, but not enough.

I refused to buy two new DS-strobes only to have more manual control, I don't care for iTTL, manual is fine for me.

And there the solution was handed to me on a platter last year:

http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/blitz/indexe.htm

The installation is a bit hard and I can't say the convertor is working flawlessly right now but I have good communication with Matthias, and he promised to check my system and make sure the converter works on my system.

When it works, I will be able to adjust the strobe power by adjusting the ev-control on the camera.

DuikKees,

so what you get is a manual strobe that can be adjusted in 1/3 stop increments using EV compensation? Sounds great!

What is the flaw? Do you know when it may be fixed?

Andrzej

It is great.

The flaw is minor according to Matthias. He offered to check the system as soon as I sent it to him.

Kees

Kees,

I ordered the converter from Matthias. Thanks for your advice.

Now, I was wondering how did you go about installing it. Did you remove the original cable and hotshoe plug?

I thought I'd try to keep it and connect the converter to it (just in case of converter's failure - I could then remove it quickly).

It would be great if you could post a photo of you housing with the converter.

Andrzej

I will post a photo later.

I maintained the original cable and hotshoe plug.

I don't know how old your housing is, but in the earlier D70 housings (mine) is the green cable not connected to the bulkhead.

I am not a soldermaster, so I asked a friend to do it.