Processing for print vs internet viewing

Thus far, I've only had prints made of a few of my photos, and I've heard that to get really nice prints, you need to do things differently "from the start" (meaning the outset of editing RAW files). Yet I can't seem to find any resources that spell out WHAT you do differently.

How do YOU process differently when you know a file is to be printed? And do any of you know any good resources with step-by-step discussions of what you do differently when processing files for the purpose of printing (e.g., dpi to save as, etc.)?

A peripheral but related question is WHERE you get images printed when you really want high-quality prints that will last (either online or local where you live).

Hi Bruce,

In very general terms, you need to sharpen more, and boost overall color saturation, and contrast. Prints rely on reflected light to show colors, whereas a monitor actually transmits the light directly to you, so this is where the latter difference comes into play.

If you have a profiled monitor you can download a profile for the printer you (or the service you use) like. Then you can do a "proof setup" and your computer/monitor will try to show you what it will look like when it comes out of the printer. You can then adjust accordingly.

The service we use here at Wetpixel is Pictopia. I like them and have used them for prints from 8x10 up to 20 x 30

Cheers

James

This topic is covered extensively in my Essential Guide <blatant self-plug>

In general term, you process the RAW file once and save it into a TIFF file. James' explanation above is correct. Just want to add that the diffrences between the 'for printing' and the 'saved for web' versions consist in resizing the image down, changing the colour mode to 8 bits (if in 16 bits), converting to JPEG, and changing the colour space to SRGB (if in another mode).

Cheers,

Mat

Eric made a good point recently that hadn't occured to me. When I submit to magazines etc I use Adobe 98 colour space. And a flavour of sRGB for online/on screen viewing.

A lot of photo printing services are setup to expect files straight from compact digicams, which shoot in sRGB, and therefore you may get better results sending them sRGB rather than Adobe RGB files for printing.

Alex

Because of that are we then saying that we should be working with sRGB in general and when the images is requested for magazine to switch it to RGB?

Thanks for posting this Bruce as I know many will like to understand this area more.

Todd

This is very interesting.

Recently I have had some large prints made which were frankly disappointing compared to the images on screen, which is calibrated.

The prints in question all look dark, colour is about right just the luminance / contrast seem 'off'.

So my print shop ( Photobox as I am in the UK ) say :-

"Yes, our Polieletronica Laserlab that produces our poster-sized prints will support images with an embedded profile; the profile which we find produces the best results is Adobe 98".

So if I figure out how to embed the profile in the jpg that I send them all my problems will be solved ? ( maybe too much to hope for ).

Paul C

I use Photobox with Adobe 98 jpegs, and the results have been very impressive after "harder" sharpening and producing a more "brilliant" image that looks a little garish on a calibrated monitor. I use a slightly S-shaped curve that's displaced towards the left to lighten the mid-tones. I suspect that the reflectivity of the paper that the print is made on is really important to the final effect.

Someone must agree, because a print was shown at the Scuba & Outdoor show last month, short-listed in the BUIF competition.

(But you can't see the print set-up, of course...)

Tim

B)

So if I figure out how to embed the profile in the jpg that I send them all my problems will be solved ? ( maybe too much to hope for ).

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In Photoshop:

1) Image>Mode>Convert to Profile

Destination Space: Adobe RGB (1998)

2) Save as

Select the "Embed Color Profile" option

Bob is pretty much your uncle.

I use Abode RBG (1998) as my working space, and convert to sRGB for web uploads. This way the files are always in Adobe RGB (1998) and I can soft proof with Photoshop. I set the proofing to the output space (usually Pictopia's LightJet gloss paper profile, as that is who I use ), then adjust the colors/saturation as needed to get as close to my target as I can.

I then sharpen using Pixel Genius's Output Sharpener for continuous tone printing at 300 DPI. After this sharpening step it can look quite horrible on screen, as they sharpen aggressively. The sharpening halos, though, act as little traps for ink spread during the printing process, and the end result looks great.

That's very interesting, as I've abandoned inkjet printing in favour of commercial laser-photo printing. The bleeding of colour into surrounding areas and the tendency to develop a red cast over time disappointed me when using a Canon printer. Emailing jpeg files to a commercial operator seems cost-effective to me.

Tim

B)

I am with Tim, never had much success with ink jet.

Photobox however are quick and quite inexpensive, I have found it often worth waiting for one of their monthly special offers.

Now I am quite keen to try with some of mine again to see if this all makes a difference.

Thanks all,

Paul C