S&S YS90Auto + YS120Duo on D100

Hi,

Im using the above strobes on my d100, shooting manual.

On the 90Auto, I just set the power level to match the f-stop on the camera. However, on the 120, I only have 2 setting: Full and half. They are on individual synch cords (Both fire in manual mode without problem) and 5" arms each.

I normally set the 120 at half power, but I am still seeing nuch hotspots from the 120. What should I do? Should I set the YS90 at setting 11, to match the half power of the 120, and use the adjust with the camera settings, so should a use a longer arm for the 120?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chad

Hi,

Try to set the YS120 to slave so it will mimic the ys 90 so you do not need a synccable for the ys120.

Thanks for the reply mikedive.

I tried it, but I'm still getting lots of overexpsure from the 120. I set it on slave and 1/2 power.

I read in a post somewhere that the 90auto should have the sensor tapped over and set at mode 1. ys90 set at f11. 120 at 1/2. Tried this, with the same result: 120 showing a much brighter light.

Seems like both provide the same result. So I tried to get the 90 to output the same intensity as the 120, with both sides at the same overexposed intensity. I then stop down the aperture further to f16 and shutter at 1/125. It seems to provide a balanced exposure.

Is this the best way, and am I giving up some controls?

Thanks,

Chad

Hello your barking up the worng tree

you need to set the YS120 even with a cable connected to SLAVE - ON, then set TTL on the exposure , not Manual,

your seeing 1/2power hits as thats what you set, SLAVE - 1/2

the YS120 has cordless TTL Slave function, this means it can mimic whatever comes out of your other strobe as long as its of less power...

SLAVE - TTL...

I've used a YS90 Auto and a Duo 90 in cordless TTL slave mode, worked just fine, dont expect it to be 100% all the time though, fine for close-up macro work, but forget it for wide.

craig

Low tec:

My favorite way to lessen the power of a strobe are some additional diffusors...

I use a 5mm textile rubberband around the front of the strobe to hold various layers of white plastic foil in place which I cut from shopping bags...

Works 100% ;-)

Had the same problem with the 120 and D100...

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Torben

Thanks for the replies.

I tried as Craig suggested: 120 on Slave - TTL. At first it still showed hot spots, as the 120 went in full dump. Then I tried tapping over the 90Auto sensor. I set it at Mode 1. Tried cycling through the f stop settings, and as Craig said, the 120 does mimic the 90's output, from 2 to 22. I remember a prior post said that the 90 auto tries to measure both light and dstance, so when you tape over the sensor it gets it working more in manual mode. That's probably why I was getting inconsistent light output formthe 90auto, as it depended upon where I was aiming the strobe.

It still showed that the 120 was bit hotter, so I took off the 90 diffuser, and was able to get balanced light output from both strobes.

Tried it with the 105 and it worked great. I still may have to adjust the 90 +/- depending on the subject distance, but at least I get the adjustment capability on the 120 that I was hoping for.

With the Sigma 10-20, it also worked well. I could dial in the power adjustments and still have aperture control. Thanks very much Craig.

Will be going on a liveaboard trip in a couple of days. Hopefully get some pics to post. Will be trying out my DSLR setup more extensively.

Thanks.

Chad

Hi Chad,

the YS-120 Does NOT have a TTL-Slave function! It only has a standard slave function that will let it fire at full or half power.

(see http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/strobe/ys...lduo/index.html )

If half power is too bright, the only way to diminish the output is to use the diffusor, which will cut down the output appr. 1/2 to 1 f-stop.

TTL-Slave is available with the YS30 TTL Duoand on the YS90 TTLDuo (dont know about the YS90 Auto and DX).

Hope this helps,

Joerg

Hmm, just when I thought I was getting my act together on diciphering all this gear...Now I'm confused!

The 120 does seem to work on slave - ttl (or does it?) When I dial down the Ys90 auto, the 120 does emulate the power output on the 90, even at 2 setting.

Any one know? I guess I have to resort to the scentific method of trial and error...

Thanks,

Chad

The YS120 does not do TTL slave PERIOD. You can only get Full, Half and Quarter (with diffuser), that's in both Slave and Wired mode. Not familiar with the 90 Auto, I shoot 2 YS120s and adjust exposure more by using the camera's shutter speed or aperture or both rather than strobe output.

With DSLRs, it's easiest for me to set the strobe to half power, no diffusers....and crank up to full power if the need arises.

s.

I shoot 2 YS120s and adjust exposure more by using the camera's shutter speed or aperture or both rather than strobe output.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey Stu, your comment above caught my attention. I also have two YS120's (ran TTL with my old A90 housing) and a now a D70 + Aquatica housing. I shot manually all last year and botched / missed enough shots that I have been considering trying to get to some sort of TTL-ish mode. Maybe I just need a more methodical way to shoot manually. Got any tips? PS: I do a lot of macro.

TIA

1 foot f16-f22

2feet f11-f16

3 feet f8-f11

4 feet f5.6-f8

, I shoot 2 YS120s and adjust exposure more by using the camera's shutter speed or aperture or both rather than strobe output.

s.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just so people do not get confused by this statement. (i believe Stu knows this, but did not express himself well as he did not differentiate between natural and strobe light)

Shutter speed does not affect the exposure of the pic from the strobe. Unless you are using something like the D70 where you can synch over and above the synch capability of the camera. The strobe fires at the same speed...

A shutter speed of 1/30 of a sec and 1/250 of a sec will get the same exposure from the strobe, but different exposures from ambient light. Or what may be easier for new UW photogs to understand... you will get same exposure on a night dive at 1/30 and f16 as you do at 1/250 and f16 as the only thing lighting up the frame is the strobe..

Hi Mike,

Yes, good catch! I adjust for ambient exposure using both shutter speed and aperture when shooting WA. While for macro, exposure is adjusted using aperture only and with strobe power as a last resort.

How was Puerto Galera? Find the Mimic?

Stu

sorry for butting in here, i have just added a ys90 auto duo to my sony P12. what is the difference between having the fibre optic cable connected and not. my strobe seems to work with it and it works with out it. should i use it for certain photos.