D200 Flash modes

One of the nice features of Nikon DLSRs over other brands is that they will allow you to shoot rear curtain (2nd curtain) flash synch with underwater strobes. I wouldn't want to use rear curtain for every shot - but it is nice to switch it on from time to time when the situation calls for it.

I am not a D200 owner, but as far as I am aware the button that you press to change flash mode on the D200 is this one (marked with the flash symbol):

I should note that this image is linked from DPReview.

Anyway, my point is that this button is very awkward to reach through a housing - and I may be wrong - but on all the D200 housings I have seen with my own eyes (Subal, Sea & Sea and Hugyfot) there is not a control for this fairly important button. Also there also does not seem to be a control on the other housings I have seen - only in pictures (Ikelite & Nexus).

I guess I have 2 questions:

1) Can the flash mode (e.g. normal, slow synch, rear curtain, red eye etc) be adjusted through the menu controls on the camera?

2) Am I wrong about any of these housings? Do they provide a mechanical control for flash mode?

Alex

Alex you are correct on the function for the flash mode control and lack of access to it in the housings you listed. But... the Aquatica A200 housing does have a control to access the flash mode button!

As I recall the only way to access the synch modes is through the control button, not the menu.

I haven't see a picture of the A200 yet!

I found one - but I can't see a control:

I assume that the black knob above the three buttons is for changing the single, multiple shooting mode? Of maybe that is for the flash mode? And if that is the case then maybe the control in the same place on the ikelite does it too.

Alex

Little 'ole Ikelite accesses the control, too.

Are there any disadvantages for shooting rear curtain all the time?

Ryan beat me to it. The Ikelite housing accesses the button.

SD

Little 'ole Ikelite accesses the control, too.

 

Are there any disadvantages for shooting rear curtain all the time?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Back in the Jurassic analog days, the only way to do rear curtain with the RS was via a switch inside the back door of the camera. I left it switched to rear curtain permanently. With a fast shutter speed, rear versus front curtain synch was irrelevant, and when using a slow shutter speed, rear curtain was always preferred. So, I think the access on the housing might not be necessary in actual use.

For sure, if I could set my Canon to rear curtain synch to use with normal submersible strobes, anything other than Canon speedlights, I'd leave it set there at all times.

Good advice, Steve.

And thanks for confirming on the Ikelite, guys.

Are there any disadvantages for shooting rear curtain all the time?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not many. I use a couple of long exposure techniques from time to time that require front curtain - but they are very specalist. I agree with Mr F that it it is probably best left in rear curtain most of the time.

Alex

I assume that the black knob above the three buttons is for changing the single, multiple shooting mode? Of maybe that is for the flash mode? And if that is the case then maybe the control in the same place on the ikelite does it too.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Alex, you are correct once again, the knob in front of the three buttons is the flash mode control.

Another advantage in having access to this control is when Henrichs ITTL Conversion board is installed. With the Rear Curtain Synch mode enabled the board goes into MTTL mode (kind of like the ROC control on the Light & Motion housings). Using the full range of the Flash Exposure Compensation AND the Exposure Compensation (Additive) you can choose the strobe output level manually.

It looks like the user-assignable "func" button is connected in the forthcoming DX-D200 which i will be using. The bad news is that flash mode is not something you can assign to it :-(

I use the func for spotmetering topside but haven't decided what I should assign to it underwater.

One possible way round this is to set up one of the "shooting bank" setting collections to use rear-curtain sync, with everything else set the same, as it's simple to switch setting banks from the menu.

The bad news here is I can't find how to set rear curtain sync on the CSM menu.. I'm sure it can be done, I just can't find it! If anyone cracks this, let me know!

Good suggestion, Rob.

Let us know if you find it!

Alex

HI All,

I've been thinking about the reason for this.

could it be the fact that because we cannot use TTL on our digital bodies the flash exposure compensation button does not perform a function.

so those people that are banging out housings are just over looking the other important functions of this button.

or could it be that, because most of our housing are so wired that the camera does not even know we have connected a flash gun to the hotshoe, so in such a case, if we depress the Flash Comp button, it will persistantly pop up the internal flash ?

All this can be address , when finally the ITTL system is cracked and we can start to allow the camera to think it has indeed and external gun connected to the hotshoe.

I've thought on many occasions about modifying my DX-70 with an ikelite control gland to cover this button, its a simple mod to do, but i'm not really sure i want to drill a hole in the top of my housing.......

craig - just thinking aloud

I'm also one of those dinosaurs that shoots rear curtain all the time underwater. At fast shutter speeds it makes no difference, at slow ones you get a dramatic motion blur. Of course that precludes the use of TTL, but with the instant feedback of digi, and the exposure adjustments available in raw, it's not necessary.

Eric and Alex-

What do you consider fast and slow shutter speeds when using rear curtain? In other words, at what shutter speed would rear curtain effect be negated?

Craig-

i used to own an Ike d70 housing and I think the lens release control could be positoned to reach the flash button on my camera...if this is what you wanted to do...my control arm would sometimes be mal positioned, activating/popping up the flash...

M.

I'd say above 1/30th it would be hard to tell - and certainly aove 1/60th. But it also depends on subject movement.

Alex

Hmmm. Don't think it can be done. Another good idea bites the dust.

So, motion blur and 10% opacity history brush it is....

When I want a rear curtain effect, I'll shoot at 1/15th, or at 1/30th for a fast moving object.

Thanks Alex and Eric... I have a trip to Guadalupe and wanted to try this technique with GW's.

M.

Alex-

Let me confirm what you said. Rear curtain as default. Correct?

Default shooting modes: 12/24 f/8 1/125; 105 F/22 1/125; 18/70 F/8 1.125

Yes i am trying to make this simple

Tom

This is what Steve F and Eric H said. And they are both people whose advice is definitely worth following.

Mike, last night I wrote an article about slow synch (both front and rear curtain) and other long exposures with sharks (in the Bahamas) for the next issue of UWP magazine (out at the start of May - if the article is accepted) which I hope will be well worth a read. I also realised that the shot at the top of this thread was actually shot on front curtain - but that's a long story!

Alex

hi,

I own the sealux D200 housing. this housing has acces to the flash +/- and the flashmodes including the rear curtain.

Rob