Found this Converter for iTTL
http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/blitz/ittl_e.htm
Does anyone here have any experience with it and Nikon D2x and Ikelits's DS50?
Other solutions/products you will recomand?
Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic
Converter for iTTL
Started by Ingvald Arne Meland ·
- 5Posts
- 5Replies
Read-only discussion
Converter for iTTL
5 posts
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Hi -
Matthias states his converter works with d2x and inon z240. I have one on d70 and it works great.
M.
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Hi Ingvald,
I have a D200 in a Hugyfot housing with the iTTL converter installed and a Z-240 strobe. I've been diving six times with it last weekend and it was quit hard to get a grip on the Z-240. So last night i started testing at home by putting a little toy on a black socket in half cardboard box to check different settings.
I found out how Inon's manual+TTL function works with the HW iTTL converter (at least think i did), their manual is in english but it sucks (...or i'm just dumb). And it works great. Their website has tables with information aboiut camera/strobe/converter compatibility.
I know you're not particularly interested in an Inon Strobe but this is what i found out for the Z-240: You have to push and lock the lower right TTL-on button and set the upper left button to 'M -0,5/-6,0' or 'FULL'. In 'M -0.5/-6.0' you can dim the strobe output by turning the upper right button counterclockwise. It too much power is emitted because of wrong setting of the upper right button, the TTL 'saves' your image by cutting off the flash. So, actually you cannot really overexpose your image anymore since the TTL function serves as a sort of anti-overexposure-protection. I'm very pleased with it! The TTL button also works as a 'saver' if you put it on 'FULL'.
If you want to have full manual control just unlock the lower right TTL-on button and you can overexpose as much as you want. And i think that's the way it'll work with most other strobes like Ike's DS50.
cheers, Udo
B.T.W.: during testing my 'old' inon D180 was well capable of 'singing along' with the Z240, but that's maybe due to the fact that the D200 emits most of the time 1 preflash, but sometime also two... In the last case the D180 will not be compatible...
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Hi Ingvald,
I have a D200 in a Hugyfot housing with the iTTL converter installed and a Z-240 strobe. I've been diving six times with it last weekend and it was quit hard to get a grip on the Z-240. So last night i started testing at home by putting a little toy on a black socket in half cardboard box to check different settings.
I found out how Inon's manual+TTL function works with the HW iTTL converter (at least think i did), their manual is in english but it sucks (...or i'm just dumb). And it works great. Their website has tables with information aboiut camera/strobe/converter compatibility.
I know you're not particularly interested in an Inon Strobe but this is what i found out for the Z-240: You have to push and lock the lower right TTL-on button and set the upper left button to 'M -0,5/-6,0' or 'FULL'. In 'M -0.5/-6.0' you can dim the strobe output by turning the upper right button counterclockwise. It too much power is emitted because of wrong setting of the upper right button, the TTL 'saves' your image by cutting off the flash. So, actually you cannot really overexpose your image anymore since the TTL function serves as a sort of anti-overexposure-protection. I'm very pleased with it! The TTL button also works as a 'saver' if you put it on 'FULL'.
If you want to have full manual control just unlock the lower right TTL-on button and you can overexpose as much as you want. And i think that's the way it'll work with most other strobes like Ike's DS50.
cheers, Udo
B.T.W.: during testing my 'old' inon D180 was well capable of 'singing along' with the Z240, but that's maybe due to the fact that the D200 emits most of the time 1 preflash, but sometime also two... In the last case the D180 will not be compatible...
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Hi Ingvald,
I have a D200 in a Hugyfot housing with the iTTL converter installed and a Z-240 strobe. I've been diving six times with it last weekend and it was quit hard to get a grip on the Z-240. So last night i started testing at home by putting a little toy on a black socket in half cardboard box to check different settings.
I found out how Inon's manual+TTL function works with the HW iTTL converter (at least think i did), their manual is in english but it sucks (...or i'm just dumb). And it works great. Their website has tables with information aboiut camera/strobe/converter compatibility.
I know you're not particularly interested in an Inon Strobe but this is what i found out for the Z-240: You have to push and lock the lower right TTL-on button and set the upper left button to 'M -0,5/-6,0' or 'FULL'. In 'M -0.5/-6.0' you can dim the strobe output by turning the upper right button counterclockwise. It too much power is emitted because of wrong setting of the upper right button, the TTL 'saves' your image by cutting off the flash. So, actually you cannot really overexpose your image anymore since the TTL function serves as a sort of anti-overexposure-protection. I'm very pleased with it! The TTL button also works as a 'saver' if you put it on 'FULL'.
If you want to have full manual control just unlock the lower right TTL-on button and you can overexpose as much as you want. And i think that's the way it'll work with most other strobes like Ike's DS50.
cheers, Udo
B.T.W.: during testing my 'old' inon D180 was well capable of 'singing along' with the Z240, but that's maybe due to the fact that the D200 emits most of the time 1 preflash, but sometime also two... In the last case the D180 will not be compatible...
Hellooooo Udo!!!!!
Please tell us how is the housing!!
I can´t wait to receive mine.....
