Canon 5D and Inon Z220 strobes?

I recently bought a Canon 5D and I am planning on getting a new housing. I currently have a Fuji S2 in a Sea & Sea housing. To use my two Inon Z220 strobes with the Fuji S2 the two type-N ("Nikon") strobe ports on the housing need to be wired with all five contacts on both ports wired for the modeling lights and laser lights to work on both strobes. I attached a drawing showing the wiring.

How do the type-N strobe ports need to be wired to work with the Canon 5D to allow the modeling lights and laser lights to work properly? I know that you can arrange the contacts on the Seacam housings but I read that the two type-N strobe connectors on the Sea & Sea housing are wired 6-pin and 2-pin which I do not understand unless they count the connector sleeve as a pin. In any case how do the type-N connectors need to be wired to allow the Canon 5D to work correctly with my two Inon Z220?

Thanks, Art

Hi Art,

The reason that the S2 was so easy to get working w/ the Inon features is that it uses "regular" film camera type TTL. Your 5D uses a different system and will probably require some fancy wiring to get some of the features working.

Let's see what Herb has to say, I think he cracked this riddle himself.

Cheers

James

Let's see what Herb has to say, I think he cracked this riddle himself.

 

Cheers

James

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... with a little help from Matthias. I posted it here:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5799

No mods were necessary with the Aquatica 5D 4-pin connector, everything works. There's also a 2-pin connector in that housing, with that the strobes works but the light does not.

You have to put the magnet in the "N" hole in the Z-220.

... with a little help from Matthias. I posted it here:

 

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5799

 

No mods were necessary with the Aquatica 5D 4-pin connector, everything works. There's also a 2-pin connector in that housing, with that the strobes works but the light does not.

 

You have to put the magnet in the "N" hole in the Z-220.

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If two strobes are connected do the modeling light and the laser light work on either of the two strobes, or just one, or neither?

What about other housings where you don't have a printed wiring board to work with?

If two strobes are connected do the modeling light and the laser light work on either of the two strobes, or just one, or neither?

 

What about other housings where you don't have a printed wiring board to work with?

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I use two Z-220's with a duel cord. No problems. The DIY was necessary for the 300D housing, but the light works with Aquatica 5D housing with no mods.

There seems to be some variability between 5D cameras and/or Z220 strobes. I have same 4-pin and 2-pin setup. I've tried with both single cords and a dual cord. I have no laser or modeling light without putting the pin in. When I do put the pin in, I have both modeling and laser light, but they don't turn off when the camera flashes...

My understanding is that "works" in this case does not mean in a shutter linked fashion, rather switch on/switch off.

The new Sea & Sea 6-Pin connector looks exactly like a standard Nikonos sync socket, but has a 6th pin located in the center. The only cord compatible with this is the lead from Sea & Sea's TTL Converter.

I could very well be wrong and could be corrected, but I believe Herb possibly stated his modeling and laser lights turn off with his shutter release.

None the less, I came up with very easy fix. I can easily turn the thumb adjustment on front of the strobes to block the red laser light, then simply increase the shutter to adequately mask the modeling light, 1/250 or whatever speed required. I doubt I could have prevented the laser light from showing in the pictures, but manually blocking the laser light and then increasing the shutter speed as needed for modeling light is easy remedy.

So, using the dual cord with both magnets in place, I too can have both strobes with funtioning modeling lights which can also be turned on and off during the dive.

I could very well be wrong and could be corrected, but I believe Herb possibly stated his modeling and laser lights turn off with his shutter release.

 

None the less, I came up with very easy fix.  I can easily turn the thumb adjustment on front of the strobes to block the red laser light, then simply increase the shutter to adequately mask the modeling light, 1/250 or whatever speed required.  I doubt I could have prevented the laser light from showing in the pictures, but manually blocking the laser light and then increasing the shutter speed as needed for modeling light is easy remedy. 

 

So, using the dual cord with both magnets in place,  I too can have both strobes with funtioning modeling lights which can also be turned on and off during the dive. 

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Ryan is right. I did see the light turn off after a shot, but it was due to recharging. I almost always shoot on full power. I did the test with the strobe set to the lowest power setting and the light did not turn off. I always block the laser and shoot at high shutter speed when I use those lights and have never seen the spot in any of my photos.

My understanding is that "works" in this case does not mean in a shutter linked fashion, rather switch on/switch off.

 

The new Sea & Sea 6-Pin connector looks exactly like a standard Nikonos sync socket, but has a 6th pin located in the center.  The only cord compatible with this is the lead from Sea & Sea's TTL Converter.

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Interesting. I sent an email to Sea&Sea and they responded that the 5D housing had a 5 pin connector. However the info on their homepage says that it has a 6 pin. Do you happen to know what is correct?

Thanks, Art

There seems to be some variability between 5D cameras and/or Z220 strobes.  I have same 4-pin and 2-pin setup.  I've tried with both single cords and a dual cord.  I have no laser or modeling light without putting the pin in.  When I do put the pin in, I have both modeling and laser light, but they don't turn off when the camera flashes...

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Do the laser and modeling lights work on both strobes as you describe when you use two single cords or only when you use a dual cord?

Thanks, Art

One 6-Pin Connector, and 1 2-Pin Connector. The 6 Pin connector is for the E-TTL converter, and the 2-pin connector is for manual strobes.

No modification is available to allow your focus light to work in the shutter linked fashion that I'm aware of. Another alternative might be Sea & Sea's shutter activated focus light-

http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/accessory/acce/light.html

Eliminating reliance on the internal Z220 focus lights would allow you to aim your strobes properly, yet still offer a shutter activated focusing light.

Works only with duel cord connected to the 4 pin output side on the Aquatica housing. No light or laser with the 2 pin connector.