Problems with Olympus E300

I have an Olympus E300 housed in a PT-E01. I am using a small

housed strobe - Olympus FL20 on manual mode - plus a second stronger

slave strobe. Most of the time I take pictures on aperture mode with white

balance set on auto, especially when using the strobes.

However about 1 out of every 3 pictures I take u/w has too much green

in them. I can remove the green color by photo editing, but with limited

sucess.

Has anybody else had similiar results?

Does anybody know of a solution?

Any ideas / help / suggestions would be appreciated.

I use an E-330 in the PT-E02 and an E-300 in The PT-E01 housings for macro and W/A. I compaired setting the white balance on auto and 5300K, the auto results were better. I also use manual for everything. In macro I set the shutter speed at 1/160th and then use manual adjustments to strobe power and/or F stop adjustments for proper exposure. This will work with TTL and non-TTL strobes both. Aperture can work but is not always the best choice. I have not experienced the green tint with any of the Olympus cameras that I own.

Phil Rudin

Have you downloaded the latest firmware from Olympus?

Thanks for the feed back.

I have updated the camera firmware to 1.4 previously.

I normally prefer using the aperture mode, as I am using my

flash in manual mode. So it is easier for me to correct over /

under exposure.

I will definitely try using manual mode in the next dive.

Hopefully this will resolve the problem.

I have attached two pictures.

First picture taken with aperture mode - greenish

Second picture of the exact same subject on shutter mode

more / less same distance, completely different colors.

Both taken with auto white balance.

I believe this might be a white balance problem? Camera having

problems to get the right white balance in aperture mode?

Shoot in manual mode, aperture priority will let the camera choose the shutter and normally it will be too slow. I get a green cast when I have the shutter too slow. It also loooks like you are too far from your subject with a small strobe like the fl20.

In macro I set the shutter speed at 1/160th and then

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Phil, did you know you can go to 1/180 if you change your EV Step to 1/2 instead of 1/3?

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the tip. I actually use shutter speeds from 1/125th to 1/320th for macro in manual with my ringflash or dual Inon Z-220's in manual. Max sutter speed will rate at 1/160 or 1/180th at EV-1/3 or EV-1/2 if you use the popup flash or Oly TTL strobes. This is bypassed when you go all manual and any shutter can be reached. At around 1/400th to 1/500th you will see the bottom of the image go black, due to a lack of sync between flash and shutter. You can try this with the camera and your strobes in manual. Look at your camera raw data and the correct shutter will be attached to the image. Let me know how this works with your strobes.

Phil

When I first had my Ike housing it didn't have the TTL installed yet and I could go up to 1/250 (might have been 1/320 but it was a year ago and they say the 2nd thing to go is your memory) before I started seeing the shutter in the frame. I think I tried using the manual settings on the DS-125s and I could still only go to 1/180 (it still sees a flash connect I presume).