Don,
Yeah, it's definitely overpriced at $500.00 +. But people said $350.00 (or whatever it was) for the Fuji E900 was overpriced. Until Dr. Bob and others starting posting amazing images taken with the little thing.
Focus triggering at .5 seconds if that is the spec isn't terrible.
Regarding Canon's marketing ideas, I can't say I know what they're thinking but I bet 99% of shooters who buy a Canon G7 won't miss RAW, or the swivel screen, or find the focus lag time terrible. They'll sell all they can produce.
dhaas
Hi David.
It seems to me the reason the e900 produces great uw images, and what makes it worth the $350 is low lag times, and RAW mode! The final shutter lag, after half press pre-focus is .010 seconds. About the same as the G3-5-6 and the Pro1. If the e900 had a hot shoe, I would already have bought one.
Adding extra lag time with a slow autofocus is one thing, but extra final half press shutter lag, when you and the fish are all moving in opposite directions, makes it stupid. Yes you can get plenty of good shots. Through shear bullheadedness and refusal to quit. In fact I've done so! See my G2 results. But you also have a ton more aggravation, than you would, lots more failed tries before you get one right, just with that extra lag...
I'm sure you're right that 99% of people that buy the G7 will not miss raw. Since all those who demand RAW are refusing to buy the G7.
If I told you, back in the film days, that you could shoot negatives, but when you got them developed you only got back really great prints, and the negatives would be destroyed, would you accept and defend this?
That is the same as leaving off RAW, in this level of camera. You can claim that is all comes down to skill of the photographer, but that is not the issue. The issue is flexibility. The jpg has the cameras settings for WB, sharpness, and contrast already built into it, and has thrown out the extra 4 bits of data on every pixel, (not even worrying about the jpg compression yet - just the conversion from 12 to 8 bit). This means that any further experimentation you might want to do, say convert to B&W, or change the results of the camera's automatic contrast setting, must be done on the print, instead of starting with the negative.
I've been shooting raw since 2000 or so, and I think a proper work flow must start from RAW. There is no good reason not to, and every reason to do so. If the automatic conversion from RAW to jpg works to your satisfaction, great! 98% of the time it does. But if you want to adjust the WB, or contrast, or convert to B&W, you can safely do so without introducing any banding, or spiky histograms.
My real gripe, is that I don't want the bulk, weight, or price of a housed DSLR setup. Been there with the N90s throughout the 90s. Rather not do it again, though I'm getting frustrated now. I've argued here, in the past, that a truly capable P&S with a great live view LCD, negligible lags, fast AF, and RAW mode is actually a better UW photo tool than a DSLR, with it's tiny (relatively) viewfinder, and large bulk underwater.
The G series of cameras has been my big hope, that someday canon would actually make a truly great P&S, that would fill this role. The G6 was there, but for the autofocus speed. Then canon took years of putting out silly little cameras with much faster AF & shutter operations than the G6, but never released that next G camera. Now they do, but they've abandoned RAW and added this arbitrary extra lag with flash, in direct opposition to what all us long time G camera fans were hoping for.
I guess I"ll either buy a nikon dslr, or give up and get a e900. Or maybe go back and get a Pro1 or G6 even, if I can find them still.
Sigh.
Don